I removed the original sconces in favor of a marine style LED gooseneck. The wiring for the sconces comes through a small 1 inch hole with wiring hid behind the mounting plate of the old sconce. Since the LED replacement uses thinner flush mounting plates, I'm tempted to simply push the wires through the hole. To do so and still be able to retrieve the wires, if necessary, I need a means for attaching the much smaller gauge wire from the replacement to the heavier wire in the wall. Would soldering this connection make it strong enough? Is there some type of port cord I could use to retrieve the wires once they're pushed back in the wall?
Thanks in advance.
Randy
Are you competing with Don? Too many upgrades for me to keep up with here on the forum
Randy, soldering is fine just put glue lined heat shrink over the solder joint, this will help reduce oxidation
Chris
No competition. At 34' everything we do is functional. Original sconces were impossible to read from. These
Amazon.com: Genuine Marine 3W Flexible Gooseneck RV 12V Reading Lamp - Dual... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M98Z6ND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Replaced the overhead driver map light marvelously. Dimmable and bright.
I used these led lights to replace the drivers map light and the passenger side map light. They are great.
acegoo 12V Reading Light, RV... Amazon.com: acegoo RV Reading Light 10-30 Volts LED Lamps for Auto Truck... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RX4JL7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
This helped on drivers side, did not need on passenger side.
acegoo Stainless Steel Base... Amazon.com: acegoo Stainless Steel Base Plate, Hole Cover Plate for Small... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPG3BZ1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
I too replaced those lights. Went with 120V lights that have both LED gooseneck spot lighting as well as general lighting. One day I will convert them to 12V. They were expensive and fed ex lost one on me but I like them.
Also thought about marine lights with a USB connector in it.
Not sure how you would get that wire out without taking the entire cabinet apart. If you can leave part out do that.
But yes, soldering the connection by twisting the wires together first then using a adhesive heat shrink will work.
To retrieve the wires at a later date, get some small braided nylon cord and tie onto the wires attach a small split ring onto the cord small enough to fit into the base of the light. then when retrieval is necessary, just pull the ring.
We replaced the granny lights with LED reading lights. In order to get the new lights high enough and cover the holes from the old lamps I made cherry panels, finished to match and mounted them with stainless steel screws and trim washers. I routed out a generous recess on the back side of the panels for wires and connections. I like long neck crimp caps for almost all 12v wiring. Easy to do mixed wire gauges. Several sized available.
Amazon.com: Install Bay CCL1614 Crimp Cap Nylon Connector 16/14 Gauge Long... (https://amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=GBT9H15SGU89&keywords=crimp+caps+16-14&qid=1580954097&sprefix=Crimp+cap%2Caps%2C270&sr=8-3)
Finished the project. Used solder filled heat shrink tubes (http://) to join wires so they can be retrieved from the wall later if needed.
Lights (http://Genuine Marine 3W Flexible Gooseneck RV 12V Reading Lamp - Dual Lighting Mode, Touch Dimmer Switch, Hard-Wired, 2800-3200k, Surface Mount on Caravan, Boat, Yacht, Spot Light, 2 Pack) are dimmable and adjust for easy reading in bed. Walnut filler in holes from old sconces and project completed.