I decided to remove all of the old electronics, and input switcher from the center cabinet. Upon removing the electronics I closed off the upper compartment area with some prefinished tongue and groove flooring I had. Not exactly the Foretravel walnut finish, but it blends in nicely. I use this area as a storage shelf.
Years ago I replaced the antenna with the King Jack. Though it worked ok mounted on the bat wing mass I still was not happy with what I was getting. While cleaning the cabinet out I also removed the old antenna power supply that Foretravel installed. I was using it to power the new King Jack. I decided to installed a new Wingard power supply and I more than doubled the channels coming in at my current location at home. There must be some improvements for DTV on the new power supply. We are happy with the signal.
I installed all of the new electronics in the cabinet above the drivers seat. I installed a Sony Multi Channel AV Receiver STR-DH590 with bluetooth along with a new Sony 8" subwoofer installed under the kitchen counter in the area where the ULine icemaker was located. The old Bose speakers are still in service and plugged in and all of the new components are plugged in via HDMI and out putted to the tv via HDMI from the receiver. The receiver is my new switcher and surround sound. Everything works great and sounds amazing.
I want to remove the cabinet door panel and insert a perforated metal insert so I can use the remotes with the door closed and so the electronics can keep cool. My question with the door is, does anyone know how deep is the door frame slot holding the panel insert? Your help will be deeply appreciated.
We are also working on a solution to fill in the gap where the ice maker was. We are looking to install a drawer system and cover the opening with doors similar to Chuck & Jeannie. Still researching drawer units.
Below is a picture of the old electronic area and a sample of the perforated metal we are looking to use.
John M
John, look at the top of the door and you can see the cope and stick joint. The depth of the slot for the panel can be measured there.
John, I took mine out and built a shelf inside total depth is 11-1/4 inch to the front of the cabinet
Chris
Roger is right I misunderstood the question. I thought you wanted to know how deep the shelf could be. lol
Chris
John,
Photos below of our ice maker to drawers conversion. All work was done by David Flanagan's expert crew, so I take no credit.
They removed the original face from the small top drawer and re-used it in our bedroom on a new small drawer that replaced the VCR.
The two large doors were the original ones that covered the storage area below the old OEM fridge. We lost that space when they installed the residential fridge. One door only had to be rotated 180 degrees to make them both work perfectly in the new location.
The 2 big drawers, of course, were built from scratch in the FOT remod shop. We made one "mistake" on the big drawers. I told them to split the available opening and make both drawers the same "height". After it was all done, we realized that to pull out the
top big drawer we have to open
both doors. The correction would be to make the bottom big drawer slightly higher and the top big drawer slightly shorter. Then we would only have to open the
top door to pull out the
top big drawer (or the small drawer). Live and learn!
Hope the photos help you to visualize your project.
Roger,
Thanks! Didn't think of looking on the top edge. We will do that tomorrow. Everyone thanks for the ideas and input.
John M.
John,
Our ice maker space was repurposed for storage as well. I used a drawer system that I had gotten at Lowes long ago for another project, though they still are available at Amazon. I added drawer fronts to finish off the space. The unit was about ¾" too deep for the space as well as ⅛" too wide, so I made a face frame extension to accommodate the depth and widened the opening by about 3/16". It would of course be easier to choose a unit that is an appropriate depth, but I already had this and I like a challenge ::). Just another thought that works for us...
Don
Nice work, you all! Gives me hope I can get rid of the table and chairs currently on the left-hand side and replace it with this: more storage!
Do what makes you happy, Mike, but if it was me I would keep the table and chairs cuz I gotta have a place to set my computer. Looking at your photo, I would rather sacrifice one of the sofas and replace IT with additional storage cabinets. But that's just me...
You may want to look into remote repeaters. Using one would allow you to not modify your existing fixtures.
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Component cabinet complete. It holds my sound receiver/surround system, blueray DVD player, Roku and Dish Receiver. The thing I dislike about the perforated insert was that the aluminum panel was thinner than what I would of preferred. But it still works.
Now I am waiting for David Flannigan to call back on a door or drawer fronts to fill in the ice maker hole.
Thanks again everyone,
John M.
An AV compartment can also be ventilated by muffin fan. Then inlet and outlet can be less visible.
But, John, nice job for a non-powered option.
Well I found a door for my icemaker location through David Flannigan at Foretravel. The door is going to be made for me. It will have the hinges and door knob pull. I will make the drawer boxes with full extension drawer slides.