The lug nuts on the driver's front wheel are on very, very tight. I used a torque multiplier in an attempt to remove one and apparently succeeded in stripping the stud as now it will spin freely.
Any suggestions on how to get it off?
Once I get it....and all of the remaining nuts off (which I hope I can loosen), what is the process of replacing the stud?
Thanks
Have you verified they are not LEFT HAND THREADS???
If so, clockwise to remove!
I did not verify the thread rotation. Never considered they might be different.
I will check before attempting any more of them, but now I have one that I have stripped and have to get it off too.
If you have Budd wheels and the socket is 1 1/2" the threads are left hand on the left side. The studs are replaceable. Post a pic of the rotor when you have the wheel off for suggestions on how to change it.
Your '97 will have Budd wheels (stud centered). So the left side wheel studs will be left handed. Once you get the wheel off you will see that you have a nut on the back side of the stud that will need to be removed and then the stud will come out.
Mike
if I am reading your post correctly the stud is spinning in the hub. I have drilled in the center of the stud starting fairly small and increase the size till of the hole till you simply side load the nut with the socket and extension and pop it off. Only need to drill to the thickness of the nut.
Scott
Craneman just mentioned that The rotors on the Foretravels have a nut on the back of the stud that pulls the serrations into the rotor. The stud is shouldered and the nut bottoms it out on the rotor.
Day D,
Took me a while but you will need this info. Here is the part numbers that you should need for the wheel studs on your coach. If you need standard studs. That is if you just stripped the stud knurled area that keeps it from spinning.
Euclid E-11723-R or Meritor 09002082-R Right side studs
E-11723-L 09002083-L Left side studs
Mike
Stud had a "L" on it....
Thank you for all of the info. I will report back with an update soon.
You might try turning the lug nut clockwise, the nut on the back of the stud will tighten up and maybe let you get the nut off.
Mike,
Thanks for the part numbers. That is very helpful.
DayD,
Now that you see a pic of what you have for the stud does this clear up what I was trying to describe as to how to remove the stud? You will most likely have to cut the wheel nut off but they are readily available. The backing nut has been over torqued so you need to replace it even if it looks good.
Mike
I need to figure out how to post that chart out of my Euclid book as it has the nuts that you need also listed in there
I have gotten a P/M about this stud and I will share the question to all.
It was ask if this will fit all coaches? The simple answer is NO
This member has a newer coach with hub centered wheels, not Budd wheels (or stud centered wheels) like we are talking about on this thread. Coaches with hub centered wheels require a different stud and nut all together than these.
Mike
Yes, the picture makes it much easier. Good advice on replacing the nuts.
I downloaded the Euclid cross reference. Any recommendations on sources?
I have a local truck supply company locally that I deal with if someone comes by with an emergency. I have also gotten studs and nuts off the net so shop around for the best price. Generally if you buy a box of 5 (that is the standard box size) you can get them much cheaper than a single.
Mike
Some really great information in this thread. What part do you think gave away. The rotor or the stud?
Craneman, among other things I received with my new to me Foretravel, was a bag of stripped nuts*. Before I even think of touching one of these wheels, I will have in my hand a suitable torque wrench. The righty tighty righty tighty mantra is drilled into me from not only driving my '50 Chrysler until 2013, but decades spent servicing friends Chryslers.
*You can strip the threads out of the nuts without damaging the rear studs. I don't know about the fronts.
So, is a 1996 U295-36 have left and right hand threads?? Never saw anything in the owners manuals
Yes the left side has left hand threads, if you look on the stud you will see a L stamped in the center. Budd wheels were standard in 1996 on the chassis' of big rigs.
Toolmaker,check Ebay,found a brand new Proto 0-600 for $165.00.
Left hand nuts will usually have a mark at each corner like here: NL24X1.5 - Left Hand Nut Fine [NL24X1.5] - .22 : Bel-Metric, Metric... (https://www.belmetric.com/standard-height-left-c-3_273_1642/nl24x15-left-hand-nut-fine-p-10811.html)
Pierce
Got back to the coach last night and was able to remove all of the remaining lug nuts. Turning a left threaded nut clockwise makes it a lot easier. :-[
I tried turning the stripped nut/lug clockwise too, but without success, so now I have to figure out how to remove it. At this point, I am considering three options, but open to all suggestions.
1. Use a nut splitter. The only ones I have found for 1.5" nuts is about $280. Nut Splitter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083LDPB43?pf_rd_p=ab873d20-a0ca-439b-ac45-cd78f07a84d8&pf_rd_r=W6X7A6VQPJ4KQAMYHMGJ) Any alternatives?
2. Cut a 1/8" box end wrench so it fits between the hub and rim to hold the nut on the back of the stud. If I can get that nut removed, then have to hope I can pull the stud out using the rim.
3. Drill out the center of the stud to remove the nut.
Any thoughts on what might work best or any other options?
This easy job of servicing the brake pins just became a lot harder and more expensive due to a very stupid mistake.
DayD,
Out of these I would use #2. If the stud is spinning in the hole then it should pull out when the backing nut comes off. Doing this you still have to remove the nut and stud out of the wheel.
Or rather than that nut cracker get a Dremel tool and a hand full of cutting tools. Use this to cut/grind the stripped nut down on one side then take a cold chisel and hammer and brake what is left of the nut. If you do this you have to be careful as to not grind into the wheel when you are grinding in the tapered area of the nut that is down in the wheel.
Mike
Thanks for your thoughts Mike. Now that you mentioned it, a nut spliter might not work anyhow since it would not be able to cut the tapered part of the nut.
I know this is insulting and basic but, here I go again:
Did you confirm that the stud is spinning in the rotor?
And it wasn't a stupid mistake. It was an error caused by ignorance. Ignorance we can fix. Stupid is forever.
So. If the stud is turning in the rotor, can you tighten the nut and try and remove the lug nut? It's a last gasp attempt before drilling out the stud.
Cutting and hammering and chiseling is only going to damage the soft aluminum wheel.
Try to fit a whizz wheel/ cut off tool and cut / split the edges off of the nut. Make a couple of slices . You wont be able to get all the way to the nut seat , but when you get close , you can crack the nut with a sharp chisel. A good die grinder could also be helpful to get the last bit of nut. Divide and conquer.
I'd do as Mike suggested #2, if you can see that the back nut is spinning when you turn the lugnut. All the other options run the risk of damaging the wheel. Possibly the drill option would be the next choice to not damage the wheel. Grinding down into the wheel socket on a Budd wheel would require patience and small bits.
Dang it! I knew there were something else I needed to do. Sat there staring at the lug thinking there is something else I am supposed to check, but could not recall what it was. Guess I was excited that I was able to remove the other nuts, then got distracted by removing the passenger side to remove/clean/lube the brake pins and install helper springs.
I wanted to remove the passenger side so I could see the back side of the hub and determine a wrench size for that nut (which is 1-1/8"). Getting a wrench back there will definitely require cutting one down to fit between the rotor and rim.
I'm "there" most every day.
When you get around to drilling out the stud, The DeWalt brand seems to be about the best I can find in a non-industrial setting.
Don't forget to cut the stud off as close as you can to the nut. And start with something manageable like a 1/8" drill.
Push stud out. . .
Build a short extending-bolt that presses against the rotor, and when extended pushes the stud out of the hub.
This is a trick used by Foretravel techs.
BTW, these Bud studs should have a big 'L' or 'R' on the outer end of the stud indicating thread's direction for tightening nut. Also mentioned in this 7-year old posting:
Left hand threads on wheel studs,Budds (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=18892.0)
Got the wheel off this weekend!!!
Both the nut and stud were turning. Cut a 1-1/8" wrench and got the box end on the hub side nut, then was able to remove the lug nut.
Ground a couple flat spots on stud to hold it to loosen/remove the hub side nut. Pried out the stud.
Now I have to find a replacement stud. Mine is definitely different than the part numbers listed in Reply #7 (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=38839.msg379721#msg379721). Those part numbers seem to be for a stud that is 3/4" on both ends. I need one that is 1-1/8" on the wheel end and 3/4" on the hub end, approx 5" long, with serrations, but does not have the collar (the back side of the larger end is the collar).
Best match I have I have found so far is Mack 18X925. I plan to call Foretravel this morning to see if they have one or can provide a part number before I start making the rounds at local supply houses.
I ordered mine from Foretravel.
Called Foretravel for the stud. They did not have any available, but provided a part number for 1997 U320.
I found them on ebay and FindItParts. FindItParts was a better price (but I hate the way they add the 7% handling fee at checkout)
FindItParts also had the cap nuts (1199M117) for .80 each, so got 10 of those.
Meritor 20X1965 for the Left hand threaded stud
Meritor 20X1966 for the right hand threaded stud
Including a PDF with a picture and complete specifications for future reference.
Maybe we can get a list showing years and models with part numbers.
Happy to report I received the replacement stud and installed it this weekend. Was able to align the splines and drive it it with a brass hammer. Put an old cap nut on first to protect the threads.
The reason I removed this wheel was to investigate a squeak which I assumed was a dragging brake pad. I removed and cleaned up the caliper pins and installed helper springs.
Also noticed the clevis pin was missing from the slack adjuster actuator rod, so replaced that.
Have not been able to take it for a test drive yet, but hopeful the issue is resolved.
Many, many thanks to everyone who contributed.
Even better than a brass hammer, is a steel punch. In my world we call them dowel pin punches.
If the clevis pin from the slack adjuster was missing, it may have been missing for a reason. Keep an eye on that adjustment, watching that the brakes don't become too tight.