The 1995 U300 we just bought has 4 house and 3 start batteries.
Our U280 just has 2 house and 2 start.
Is it unusual to have 4 house batteries?
It depends... One 8D battery takes up the space of the three Optima redtop chassis batteries usually found on the larger displacement engines in our coaches (At least for Unicoaches). Our U270 originally had two 8D house batteries, but I added another level above those two put in four new 8D AGM batteries. U295 and U320 models generally came with three 8D house batteries. As owners, we can do anything within our budgets, skill sets, ans available space.
Don
Susan and Bob (Rocky1down) have a (probably custom ordered) Foretravel U300.
The 10.3L Cat 3176 may require 3 starting batteries...that's a pretty big engine.
The U280 has a "little" Cummins 8.3L which starts just fine on two cranking batteries.
Wouldn't be surprised if the original owner also asked for additional house batteries along with any other custom features.
If the 4 house batteries are all 8D size, then that is a very nice sized battery bank for a GV! :thumbsup:
Of course, you will pay the price (literally) when they all come due for replacement. :'(
Bigger than a 8.3, then you need 3 start batteries. Two is not enough for winter/cold weather. We had to have 2 8D to start the Detroits on the fire department and that was at sea level in a mild climate.
Three 24 or 31 series is only $300 or so total so about $30/yr. Pretty cheap.
Depends on how you utilize your coach. The dry camping that we do requires more capacity compared to those who stop in CGs with power. Also on the size of the house batteries. We have 6 but not 8D size. Hard to have too many house batteries.
Pierce
My 1996 U295 has 4 house and 2 start. 8.3 cummins
What size are the house batteries?
Wowww...we have a U300 with 2 8d's ,where are the 4 8d's located pics please
I have 4 8ds and they are going good after 8 yrs
JohnH
We also have 4 Gel 8D's (12yrs old) and 2 Optima start batteries all in good condition.
John
I received a request for info & pictures of both the house and chassis battery setups in our 99' U270. The house bank four battery upgrade is fairly complicated to describe and as I had previously did a lengthy post with lots of pictures, here is a link to it;
Installing 4 batteries and a busbar setup in a 99' 36 foot U270 (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=26006.msg207235#msg207235)
As for the single O'Reilly AGM8D chassis battery replacement of the two OEM Red Top Optimas, it was part of a larger project involving redoing the battery isolator panel, installing a Sterling Alternator to battery charger, redoing all the start battery cables etc. and was apparently not posted in a single topic, so here are a couple links;
(Not that all of the extra bits in these posts were required for the changeout, just that I was planning on make new battery cables (upping the gauge from 3-0 to 4-0) anyway, and while I was there... :o )
Charging System project (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34545.msg318742#msg318742)
And
Redoing the chassis battery compartment connections (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=31549.msg278574#msg278574)
Since I didn't apparently take any pictures of the start battery at the time, I will add a few as it stands now (after a wipe down! I have long planned adding a splash guard between the battery tray and the dualies... ::) )
And just to add some meat to this post, a few pictures of the house battery bank for those who don't feel like reading through the rather long, detailed thread on that project.
Don
Thank you! Great data
I just purchased a 1994 Unicoach and I have not yet had a chance to check-out everything. I drove the coach about 250 miles and it performed exceptionally well.
I'm just a little confused about the batteries. Obviously the 2 batteries in the engine bay on the passenger side of the coach are the cranking batteries. On the drivers side in the engine bay there are 2 large 975 amp cranking batteries. I'm assuming these batteries are supposed to be "deep cycle" batteries and someone just installed the wrong batteries; but IDK.
Also, I have not yet located the generator cranking battery. Does the generator crank off the house batteries?
Correct, the generator typically cranks from the house batteries. And, yes, the house batteries should be deep cycle.
Welcome to the Forum! New members are appreciated and encouraged to ask questions. Never be afraid to ask!
The generator on Foretravel coaches normally does not have a dedicated starting battery. It may be wired to start off either battery bank, depending on the coach year/model. On my '93 U280 it starts off the house battery bank.
The big batteries that you have identified as probable house batteries might be the wrong "type" or they might be combination start and/or deep cycle batteries. Some battery companies sell one battery for both applications. If you have a specific battery model number, we may be able to comment more.
Let us know some details about your coach. You can add things to your signature like year model, build number, engine, etc. Go to your profile page to modify your signature. That way every post you make will contain this info.
See mine below as a example.
I just scored a '94 U280. It's been unused for 10 years. I've gotten it running, and everything is good on the chassis side. New tires, bags, etc. House batteries look original, and they have very little power. Generator will start and run if the engine is running, but won't start if it's not.
So here is the question: Are the AGM batteries worth it at almost twice the price? O'Riley's has the standard 8D batteries at $241 each. Why would I spend $477 for an AGM battery? I understand that they are better in almost every way. But are they twice the price better?
Is there a Rural King near you?
8d might be 140$
I have bought 2. Happy for the price I.
So, you have to think outside of the box. Check Craigslist and Facebook marketplace for the deals. I got our AGMs for about 9% of the cost and they were new. Business failures, floods, etc always mean that the deals are out there. You just have to look and look but educate yourself on batteries first so you don't get burned.
Bought our batteries in 2008 and they are still working well. (cross fingers) $210 for all 6.
Pierce
Just the easier maintenance of the AGMs make them worth it to me. No water to top off. Long life in storage is disconnected.
Rich
IMO, the most compelling reason to buy AGM over conventional flooded batteries is the fact that they are maintenance free. If your '94 U280 is the same as my '93 model, the house batteries are stacked one on top of the other in the compartment behind the driver side rear tires. Because of the VERY limited space above both batteries, it is
almost impossible to check electrolyte level and (if necessary) add water to all of the cells. I know whereof I speak - my coach came with flooded batteries when we bought it. I quickly decided to replace them with AGMs from O'Reilly and personally consider it money well spent.
They do make "automatic watering systems" for conventional flooded batteries that
might make the task easier. I have no experience with them, hence no opinion.
Our start batteries in our U300 are conventional but maintenance free and have no caps to remove other than using a small screwdriver to pry the covers up. Some conventional batteries like 8Ds may have caps that remove so you can add water. Good to consider that depending on where you are going to mount them.
Pierce
The first thing to keep in mind is that these are all lead acid batteries. They main difference is how the electrolye is handled
I cross the gel-cell construction off my list because you shouldn't charge them so aggressively they out gas, because of, you know, the gel. Once a bubble, always a bubble.
AGM is a starved electrolyte design and can be rapidly charged just so long as they aren't over charged, which is technically impossible because there isn't enough electrolyte to so do. These can be charged too quickly overwhelming the mechanism that converts the oxy-hydrogen gasses back to water.
Flooded cell construction is the least expensive and requires a ventilated battery compartment. But is more tolerate of abuse.
We run flooded cell in the Foretravel, a maintenance free flooded cell in the Studebaker and an AGM in the Siata with the charging rate set at 13.7V. Because I added a forward fuel tank and the battery is under the tank.
It seems to me...that calling a lead/acid battery with
any kind of removable cover over the cells "maintenance free" is a misnomer. I believe they should be more properly called "low maintenance". If the battery is not a
sealed design (VRLA or SLA) then it
could lose water due to evaporation, overcharging, or high temperatures. If lost water is not replaced, battery will be damaged. Thus, maintenance
may be required.
I've never had a maintenance free conventional battery that needed water. They usually go 8 to 11 years. The use of Calcium Lead plates back in the 1970's have reduced the outgassing to almost nothing and unless in a really hot location, they are good to go.
Quote: "Maintenance-free batteries are also easily identifiable because they do not have filler caps. A large, plain unremovable flat cover encases the battery housing and may be labeled with the words "Maintenance Free." Today, virtually all new cars come standard with maintenance-free batteries. While maintenance-free batteries do not need to be topped off, you may still want to test your battery from time to time to ensure good performance."
Pierce
Exactly! A battery with a unremovable cover may indeed be called "maintenance free". You said your start batteries have covers that can be pried off with a screwdriver. The covers are "removable" so the battery
could be maintained (water level checked or topped off) if you desired to do so.
I rest my case.
Chuck,
All maintenance free batteries have the same type of cover that can be removed. Have you ever known anyone who has removed a cover? If so, why?
You just lost your case! Guilty!!
Pierce :)
Objection! This statement is a inaccurate generalization.
ALL "maintenance free" batteries DO NOT have the same type of cover that can be removed.
SOME "maintenance free" (SLA) batteries DO have caps/covers that can be removed.
SOME "maintenance free" (AGM & GEL) batteries DO NOT have ANY kind of cap or cover that can be removed without destroying the case (see photo below).
SOME "maintenance free" (VRLA) batteries have valves on the top that LOOK like "filler" caps but are NOT designed to be removable.
ANY "maintenance free" battery can be opened in SOME way by applying sufficient brute force...
Many YouTube videos show how to REMOVE the caps/covers on "maintenance free" (SLA) batteries to allow restoration of function.
Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) – Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) vs Gel – BatteryGuy.com... (https://batteryguy.com/kb/knowledge-base/sealed-lead-acid-sla-absorbent-glass-mat-agm-vs-gel/)
Chuck, I've always tried to stand for truth, justice and the American Way.
Pierce
It's time for breakfast............or a nap. :sleepy:
Entertaining and informative read!
"They do make "automatic watering systems" for conventional flooded batteries that might make the task easier. I have no experience with them, hence no opinion."
Studied the watering systems from flow-rite.com, decided to go with AGM.
My' 81 has the automatic watering system, love it.