First, what do you call this. Not sure if drag link is the correct term, but this is the rod that connects the steering box to the driver's side wheel.
Second, should it look like this? Is it just missing a grease/dust boot or is this very loose and in need or repair/replacement?
There was a big chunk of old grease around it that I removed after the adding new grease.
Yes, that is the drag link.
VERY common for the boot to disintegrate.
Two choices:
One, the one I would follow is to grease it more often and only replace the ends when there is mechanical play.
Two, of course is to replace the ends now.
This may sound crazy but the old dried up grease IMO provides a dust seal. Certainly replacing the missing rubber boot is the best option. That could include new ball joint since getting it apart can be tough. I'm not a fan of redoing work, however there always is time to do it twice.
Scott
New grease is a dust seal also just do it more often.
I have a similar issue. Mike had some dust boots that can be replaced but for whatever reason we didn't get them installed when I changed my steering box. I would like to break it apart and add the dust boots back. Does anyone have a part number or link to purchase new boots? Is this a standard boot that any big rig store should have?
Thanks
Eric
I have only seen the boots come with the joints. You have to get pretty brutal to change the boots in my experience. Will wait and see if some numbers pop up.
Might check with Energy Suspension
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-dust-boots.asp
Here is the # Eric is talking about L24VC0109 for the boot/dust cover. I try to get a dozen at a time to make it worth the shipping. Shop around for the best price.
Mike
We also replaced our drag link ends just for boots, but seems to me that we could fashion some type of flexible enclosure sealed and kept in place with zip ties on drag link and other side . Something that would hold up from road debris and grease, that could look like a wet umbrella bag with the end cut off.
It would look weird, but keep the water and dirt out of the joint. Just seal it up after greasing.
I've actually used leather boot lace rapped around were the seal would go to take up space and hold grease. Once the grease starts solidifying it holds the dust out well. Water will still enter. Not a permanent repair but will last for years. Still need to grease often. Scott
You could take a new boot, slice it to install then super glue it back together.
Buy a new one and replace the whole thing.. you will be in there anyway and you know you wont have to be back under it for a while ... if ever...
Why crawl under there and redo this several times when one time will work.
Was going to say what David said.
Any one have the part number readily available?
OK here's my take Dayton 310–222 $26 install a left and right and when you grease the tire rod or drag link, lift the boot up to allow the new grease to exit without pressurize the boat causing the problem that most people have with ruptured boots.
There are also part numbers in this post Drag Link ends (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28539.msg238118#msg238118) from Mike a couple years ago that might be helpful.
While your at it might as well get the steering ones now also, you'll need them at some point, they are different part numbers.
DayD,
This should be the other numbers you are looking for but double check for your exact coach.
Meritor R230070 Moog ES431L Right hand side
Meritor R230071 Moog ES431R Left hand side
The shaft threads should be 1.25-12TPI for both the left and right hand side.
The stud being 7/8-14TPI for both sides.
The link you have above the ball joints have 1.12-12TPI for the shaft size and 7/8-14TPI on the stud.
Mike
You asked "Is this very loose and in need of replacement?"
Jack that wheel up off the ground and have some one wiggle it back and forth while you look at the tie rod end for movement. Movement? Bad.
If no play, I'd grease it after every drive in the rain and keep going until it wears out.
Actually, checking the drag link ends is even easier.
Wheels on the ground. Engine off. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth. Is there any movement in the pitman arm that is not transmitted to the left steering knuckle (i.e. play at either end of the drag link)--- REPLACE the drag link ends.
You really are a party pooper Brett.
I was leaving room for a learning experience.
I think it will be easier to convince the wife to sit behind the steering wheel than to getting her to grab hold of the wheel itself and wiggle it!
Yeah, but I hoped you'd figure that out on your own. That and if properly blocked, you can lie on your back and push the wheel back and forth with your feet while you check for play with your hands.