So while plugged into shore power my plugs are fine.
So if I take it off shore power and the plugs work then I am good.
If not, then does it mean either the ats #2 isn't switching over to allow the inverter to do its job or the inverter isn't working.
Is that a correct assumption?
Correct
May just be a tripped breaker on the inverter/charger. Reset and check again.
1. Be sure inverter is actually turned on, either at the remote control panel, or at the unit itself.
2. Check GFCI outlet in bathroom to be sure it has not tripped.
3. Check the voltage on the house battery bank. Low voltage (at some preset value) will cause the inverter to shut down.
What is the manufacturer of your inverter/charger? Is yours still the original Heart Freedom 25?
Some require a hard reset, disconnecting positive and negative battery terminals from inverter/charger for 30 minutes.
I've seen many a rv diagnosed with a bad inverter/charger fixed in this way.
The shop i took it to said it is a bad inverter.
I asked them to disconnect the batteries and see what happens in the morning.
I have the Heart Freedom 25 with Briter Lithium batteries (formerly lead acid batteries).
So i have been seeing the Victron name on the blog here, but wasn't Heart bought out by Xantrex (would that be more compatible to my system).
I am going to ask Briter what inverters they recommend with their batteries and probably have them install that too.
Is there anyone who has Briter Batteries and has come across this before.
The big names on inverters are, Xantrex, Magnum and Victron. I currently have the Xantrex SW3012, but if it fails I will do the Victron MultiPlus 12/3000. Everyone has a favorite so you will get lots of opinions on this.
If posible, I would go by there first thing in the morning and see the batteries disconnected both neg and pos for at least 20-30 minutes, and be there when they hook them up.
Will do.
Thanks.
Other than 3 or 4 posts where
you have mentioned the Briter batteries, a search of the Forum archives reveals only ONE other mention of that brand. Link to that thread below. SO, I would guess that you are blazing a new trail (at least in this group) by using Briter batteries.
However, we do have members with extensive knowledge of lithium batteries in general, and (specifically) how they can be successfully fitted to Foretravel coaches. A search of the Forum will generate lots of threads about lithium batteries plus compatable inverters, chargers and BMS.
Briter Products Ion Ready Batteries (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37183.msg356110#msg356110)
Your 98 inverter could have had battery temp controlled charging as it's serial number probably was over 100,000.
Probably not installed but highly recommended or required by most battery makers anymore.
No idea what works best with your Briter li-ion batteries
https://youtu.be/P43xtE9gEB4
Above is Briter made "tech" video.
Click on picture at the end of this reply to see Briter support phone number. 1-833-BRITER1
As far as inverter/chargers experience with other similar lifepo4 batteries, I would talk to each customer support phone number of each manufacturer you concider. This also gives you an idea of what support you will find after you purchase.
My experience with the Xantrex phone support and their newer products has always been excellent for over 10 years. You asked for experience, I have had 2 SW3000 and currently have a SW2000, so I've had three newer Xantrex inverter/charger units in 3 different rvs over the last 10 years.
Others in the forum seem to have had good history with Magnum. My experience with Victron is you need to question who you buy from as that is where you will get most of your tech advice from. Many in our forum have recommended Bay Marine in San Diego or AM Solar in Springfield, Oregon for Victron. Other than the dealer support, most Victron support is by email or online blogs and forums.
I would not buy Victron product again from Amazon, as their Victron support I have found to be zero, other than your choice to return product within 30 days. As the following paragraph says, it is too easy to call and buy from Bay Marine in San Diego.
Bay Marine gives a discount to FT forum members and I have seen no complaints from forum members about them. If I ever I chose to buy Victron, I would only buy from Bay Marine because of their support, (or posibly AM Solar because of my past experience with them, I also live near them).
If you want to add an auto gen start at some time the Magnum ME-AGSN module has the internal programming to add the preheat function and to retry up to 4 times.
It also has a long temp monitoring cord included allowing the gen auto start/stop function to work on temperature.
It's also shows its system is capable with more mods to the air conditioners(boards) and a newer 10 button control panel to have a fully integrated system where supposedly the coach can switch from hot to cold functions automatically.
That way a solar system and temps can control the coaches systems.
Beyond what most here want or need but my understanding that it is available.
We have a pet in the coach and having the gen start and then run the roof airs if set is something that may be helpful.
We would have to leave the 4 button control set so that when power is supplied the heat or cool set is supplied.
I do that already as the control panel is reachable from the drivers seat.
So while driving I can preheat the gen then start it then reach behind me to turn on the power switch on the HVAC panel.
The gen start module with the ac system changes can automate this. And switch from heat to cool and add in the temp factor.
I thought it was interesting that our over 20 year old coaches can be updated that much.
Especially with the aqua hot you have. It's temp sensors including the tank bay one can trigger the coaches system separately from the bulb temp sensor that is part of the magnum gen auto start
Newest coaches have this auto everything built in. Heat to cold to auto gen start if needed.
Yours and mine are capable also it seems.
I have the PT-100 and the ME-AGSN just have not arranged or budgeted their installs yet.
If you do not think the auto functions available are something you might want the other inverter chargers have large followings and all work well.
Be "trick" to have a fully automated modern state of the art power and HVAC systems in our old coaches like the new boys would it not?
Well after disconnecting from the batteries and attaching back it reset.
So now I'm pretty sure it's the ATS #2.
I'm going to carefully take off the cover. I think there may be a reset lever in there.
Thanks.bfor the time beinga saved a lot of money.
I'm sure I will have to replace that inverter. But not yet.
Happy for you to have this result. Another inverter/charger saved.
Make sure your equalization is turned off or have your settings to 12 Volt Gel Cell Cool Temperature
for your best lithium battery stting. This is so you do not ruin your lithium batteries with a high equalize charge. See manual below. Best settings on page 17 for your lithium is, 12 Volt Gel Cell Cool Temperature.
As far as ATS, I've never heard of a reset lever. Is your ATS not switching over when you plug in?
The plugs have power when plugged into shore power now.
But when I disconnect I have no power to the plugs.
My ac gauge on the link 2000 is good with shore power but zero without shore power with inverter on.
When I press the inverter button on the link 2000 it doesn't thump anymore.
How can I safely test to see if there is voltage going in and out of the ats with a meter.
I've attached the picture of my ats #1.
I would have to get that out of the way before I can get to #2.
I say me but I am trying to get someone to do it for me.
Should I buy the same make and model. Are they still made?
Sorry for all the questions but I have really learned a lot these past several days.
Blurry video, but shows the basic procedure. USE CAUTION working around live 110V wiring.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpPkj8aTcyE
Are both transfer switches the same make/model? Can't see #2 very well in your photo. If so, sorry, they are no longer available.
Magnetek ATS-100 info:
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=3433
I will have someone check it out.
Both transfer switches are the same.
If I have to replace one should I replace both while I am at it?
And what kind?
This is what I did. I only had to replace the top one. It has been perfect, much quieter than the original.
What I liked was the size being similar, and the quality of Progressive Dynamics. The stiff wires were difficult but doable. I had to release some of the wire tie downs to get enough wire to connect.
50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch | Camping World (https://www.campingworld.com/50-amp-automatic-transfer-switch-50065.html)
The following link is to when I installed an EMS, I have attached it because it has three pictures of the new install of the ATS that I installed, thePD52V.
Install Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW50 (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37607.0)
If you read the good advice I received on the following thread, I believe you will find it worthwhile.
Replace ATS100 110v? Lost all AC power. Replace/Fix? automatic power switch (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=33719.0)
Ok. I'm going to get that ATS.
But first one question.
See my pictures.
I did a mock boondock at my house.
I didn't plug into shore power.
I ran the lithium batteries (2) down to 58 percent.
I ran the generator for 2 hours which brought it up to 100 percent.
Look at my link 2000 display and the screen display on my batteries.
The batteries are fully charged but if you look closely you can see the low bat words on the link display.
My question is, if somewhere the system is sensing low battery, even if there is not a low battery situation, will it prevent the inverter from getting power from the batteries and passing through the ATS#2, through to the fuse box, to the plugs.
I see the tiny little "LOBAT" indication, but I don't know what it means. Does your inverter Owner Manual have any hints?
It looks like the voltage reading is good on both displays - around 14 volts.
It doesn't look to me like the inverter is turned on. (?) The "Inverter" LED is not illuminated.
Did you try pushing the "Inverter" button (on the Link2000 display) to see if that will turn the inverter on?
(I know nothing about the Heart Interface or Link2000)
When I press the button nothing happens so I leave it off.
I plan on getting a new ats but I just thought maybe the low bat indicator is why I'm not getting ac power from the inverter.
1. When you say "Nothing happens" do you mean the inverter LED does not come on? Or that the inverter does not turn on?
2. I repeat: Does your Link2000 owner manual give any guidance about the meaning of LOBAT?
It is very possible that LOBAT warning would keep the inverter from turning on. Question: What condition triggers the LOBAT warning?
I also wonder if a wiring connection behind the Link2000 display might have come loose. In that case, it might not be communicating properly with the inverter. On our coach, the "data" connection cable between the control panel and the inverter looks like a round grey teleco cable. Same type of RJ11 telco plugs on each end.
I would try pulling the control panel out of the wall and check the wiring connections. Also check the data cable connection at the inverter. Even if the connections look good, try disconnecting the plugs, wait about 10 seconds, and then reconnect them to be sure they are secure.
Let me first say that I know NOTHING about your system. Any chance that the Heart display uses a little battery for internal memory and that is why LOBAT is displayed?
Link 2000 owners manual:
LOBAT
When 50% of the declared capacity of either Battery #1 or #2 is consumed, LO BAT flashes in the upper left hand corner of the display. (This indicator is affected by both the declared battery capacity and the discharge floor setting.)
Thanx, John, for that clarification of the LOBAT warning.
It would seem that something is amiss with the settings in the OP's Link 2000 control panel. The voltage reading on the panel and on the battery itself both indicate around 14 volts. Yet the LOBAT is displayed on the panel.
I think it would be wise for OP to verify the "declared battery capacity" value and the "discharge floor setting" value stored in the panel.
If both parameters are entered correctly, then why does the control panel display LOBAT at the same time it shows 14 volts?
The LOBAT probably refers to an earlier condition. Do a reset to delete the fault.
I know this is an old thread but we found out what was causing our no power to all my plug issue while not on generator or shore power.
There is a 300 amp fuse between the battery and the inverter. That was bad. I got a 250 amp fuse for under 10 dollars.
It's the inverter fuse