Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: defendertx on February 28, 2020, 08:13:06 am
Title: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: defendertx on February 28, 2020, 08:13:06 am
Howdy Everyone!
I'd like to replace my aging (1994) Atwood Propane/Electric/Exhaust Gas water heater on my 1994 U280 40ft, and I'd love to hear from people who either have done it themselves, had it done professionally, or even just researched it. I'm within a week or so of making a purchase decision.
My requirements are that I need both propane and electric, but don't really need exhaust gas. I'm not married to a tank-based solution, so tankless suggestions are welcomed too. I'm happy to DIY if it is simple enough to do, but if it gets complicated or dangerous, I can have it professionally installed. I really don't want to do this more than once, so I want to get it right the first time.
I'd love to hear from the community :-)
Mark
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Rudy on February 28, 2020, 08:39:18 am
Mark, We replaced out 10 gallon heater with a 10 gallon (Attwood I think) electric/propane heater. Same size and footprint. Getting to rear facing connections via a hole in forward wall is tight but not too hard. We use the electric element most of the time and never run out of hot water. These heaters come in models that also have over the road heating by the main engine too.
The concern with tankless heaters, that I have no experience with, is enough capacity to heat the flowing water to a temp you are happy with. Some do and some do not. So research these carelfully and you will find one that makes the grade.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: wolfe10 on February 28, 2020, 09:01:32 am
Assume your water heater is also "motor-aid" so engine coolant circulates through a coil in it.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on February 28, 2020, 09:02:28 am
Can't help with your new heater choice, cuz we're still using our 27-year old original Atwood heater. Will watch the responses to your question with great interest - it's only a matter of time before we'll need a new one.
One small correction. It sounds like you think the "engine heat" (motor-aid) option is supplied by exhaust gas. Actually, it is done by circulating engine coolant around or through the water heater tank. I think it is a very nice option, but if the new water heater has both electric and propane heating elements, you could achieve the same thing (on the road heating) by connecting the 110V electric mode to a inverter powered circuit.
Here's a good look at what's involved in the replacement project:
Replacing a Water Heater (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_a_water_heater.html)
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: jor on February 28, 2020, 09:03:15 am
On our 95 300 we replaced the water heater with the same Atwood model which included the engine heat feature. jor
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: FourTravelers on February 28, 2020, 09:09:47 am
I'm with Chuck, Don't know about and never heard of an exhaust gas option. Must be referring to MotorAide with heat exchanger.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Twig on February 28, 2020, 09:46:52 am
I replaced mine. Same footprint with the exception that the new one comes with a relay for the electric element instead of the thermistors on the back. To avoid use of the engine aid I just connected both ends of the hoses to the gate valve and keep it closed.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: defendertx on February 28, 2020, 10:03:15 am
All,
OK - I think it should be pretty obvious how much of a newbie I am :)) I said exhaust, but Bret is exactly right, I meant to say engine coolant. Yes, I have that model. And thanks for the suggestion to just bypass that feature by connecting the hoses together if I don't want to use it. I doubt it is something I would use very frequently. My model can hold 40 gallons of propane, so any time electricity is not available, I'll probably just be able to use propane.
Thanks for everyone that is commenting! I'm still collecting data.
Mark
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: John Duld on February 28, 2020, 10:29:41 am
If you have a motor aid water heater stay with it. When you arrive at your destination you will arrive with a tank full of free hot water.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on February 28, 2020, 10:38:59 am
I doubt it is something I would use very frequently.
Why would you NOT use the MotorAid feature (if you have it)? You might as well use the excess heat generated by the big engine for something besides heating the atmosphere and contributing to Global Warming. Like John says, IT IS FREE!
The second best option for heating the water going down the road would be electric (like I said above). If your batteries are fully charged, then your alternator doesn't have much to do. Might as well use it to charge the batteries (BOOST on) to power the inverter to heat the water...
Using propane to heat the water (while driving) would be my last choice. You have to pay good $ for the propane. Why "waste" it?
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Jack Lewis on February 28, 2020, 10:59:47 am
Can't help with your new heater choice, cuz we're still using our 27-year old original Atwood heater. Will watch the responses to your question with great interest - it's only a matter of time before we'll need a new one.
Here's a good look at what's involved in the replacement project:
Replacing a Water Heater (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_a_water_heater.html)
I agree with using the same unit for replacement as original.
The above link helped me immensely. This year, I replaced my original 22 year old unit with the same unit. I did so only to prevent an issue when traveling out of town where it might be difficult to change. Of course replacement does not guarantee this.
This I chose after 5+ years researching many other options and talking to others that went to different units. Sometimes simpler is better, and the original type is the best for all around use.
If you do change to the same unit, you will have to change out the switch. The unit comes with a white switch, I found this black one better matches the interior.
GAS/ELECT W/HEAT EXCHANGE, DIRECT SPARK | 80-1375 | by PPL (https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/rv-water-heaters/rv-water-heaters/gch10a-4e-gas-electric-water-heater_80-1375)
Repurposing the "hot water dispenser" toggle switch. (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37479.msg360301#msg360301)
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Dave Larsen on February 28, 2020, 11:19:27 am
Personally, I would not overthink this. Just get the direct replacement and save the time and aggravation of trying to make something else work :o
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: defendertx on February 28, 2020, 11:47:00 am
John, Chuck & Jeannie, and Jack,
Thanks for the input. Actually I was just thinking that having the coolant connection was just one more thing to break, but, after listening to the compelling arguments, it doesn't really seem like it is a problem. Also, you all make good arguments for keeping what I have. If I think about it, the hot water heater I currently have (which is a 2E, not a 4E), HAS lasted a good long time. If a replacement lasts just a long, then it really would be a smart purchase. Plus, I wouldn't have to think about how to change the system - compatibility is built in.
Thanks for the good advice everyone!
Mark
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: dans96u295ft on February 28, 2020, 12:03:27 pm
Just had it done. Bought it on line for $600 to my door from United RV in Texas. Had my dealer install it. I went with gas only as the new electronic start is not compatible with the existing wiring and they would have had to run all new wiring and gas is more efficient anyway. I kept the engine water heat model
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Jack Lewis on February 28, 2020, 12:47:28 pm
Just had it done. Bought it on line for $600 to my door from United RV in Texas. Had my dealer install it. I went with gas only as the new electronic start is not compatible with the existing wiring and they would have had to run all new wiring and gas is more efficient anyway. I kept the engine water heat model
Dan, I'm sure for you, yours will be just fine.
For others, wiring is pretty simple. As I remember, I used mostly the preexisting wiring. Also electric is free in most parks I use. A combination of electric and gas gives you a faster recovery rate. The motor aid type water heater is just a great plus. My advice is replace like for like.
$160 more, and an hour more, at most, (that was for me completing and I had never done one before) for the rewire seems like a bargain to me to get the above features.
If you cannot wire yourself or have an experienced installer available, at least install the right replacement unit and complete the wiring later.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: FourTravelers on February 28, 2020, 12:52:11 pm
("The second best option for heating the water going down the road would be electric (like I said above). If your batteries are fully charged, then your alternator doesn't have much to do. Might as well use it to charge the batteries (BOOST on) to power the inverter to heat the water...")
Chuck, Yours must be wired different than ours, WH is not powered from the inverter. Only works on electric when on shore power or generator.
FWIW we enjoy having the Motor-aide option. Free hot water when you stop at a rest area for the night.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on February 28, 2020, 01:41:36 pm
Chuck, Yours must be wired different than ours, WH is not powered from the inverter. Only works on electric when on shore power or generator.
No, ours now works the same as yours. But I mentioned up above in Reply #3 the possibility of wiring the electric element to a inverter powered circuit. I would consider doing that if I installed a new 2-way heater that did not have the MotorAid feature.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Phranko on February 28, 2020, 02:05:18 pm
Following this with high interest, we have considered replacing our original water heater. Just can't justify it yet, the old workhorse still heats perfectly fine, gas or motor aid (never used), no electric.
Chuck and Justin, You guys talked me into opening the motor aid option on our next trip. Previous owner never used it, and it appears the original owner never used it. I "exercised" the shut off when we bought the coach now it has the occasional drip out of the stem. After seeing the drip I envisioned catastrophic failure at a most inopportune time with hot coolant, under pressure, spewing and flooding the compartment, me up front watching temps climb wondering ....? It's been in the closed position since.
That said I'm opening it up. Boy is the DW going to be surprised when we stop for the night.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on February 28, 2020, 02:15:23 pm
Previous owner never used it, and it appears the original owner never used it.
Just the opposite situation here - our previous owners (all 4 of them) apparently always used it and never closed the valve. The valve looks to be original, and I would be afraid to try to close it at this point, for the same reason you mentioned. But as I said, I don't know why I would ever want to close it. I can't imagine needing more heat from the dash heater - it already puts out more than we ever use.
If you decide to open the valve, do it before you go on a trip, and have a backup plan in case it breaks or leaks. Better safe than sorry.
PS: In case you decide to install a new valve. They sell rubber hose pliers at auto parts stores. You can use them to pinch off the hoses so you can change the valve without losing a lot of coolant. Example below:
Amazon.com: Hose Clamp Pliers, 3Pcs Nylon Fuel Water Line Clamp Tool Hose... (https://www.amazon.com/Clamp-Pliers-Nylon-Water-Pinch/dp/B07SFVVWJT/ref=pd_day0_hl_328_2/134-1788041-4792223?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07SFVVWJT&pd_rd_r=da84c29f-0c92-4011-8269-74b368dc121d&pd_rd_w=5qAU8&pd_rd_wg=TQvmO&pf_rd_p=531c5da2-92c8-47a3-8df6-cb5fa8f00603&pf_rd_r=H7NP6758NE13PGSHY593&psc=1&refRID=H7NP6758NE13PGSHY593)
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Don & Tys on February 28, 2020, 02:24:02 pm
Consider using some hose pinching pliers to clamp off the heater hose on both sides of the old gate valve, and replacing it with a 1/2" brass ball valve. Get a pair of heater hose fittings from an auto parts store (or Amazon), as a regular hardware store barbed fitting will seep from time to time (that coolant is slippery!). I replaced ours with two valves in order to completely isolate the motoraide loop for removal, but using one will do the job for adding or subtracting cabin heat. Don
Following this with high interest, we have considered replacing our original water heater. Just can't justify it yet, the old workhorse still heats perfectly fine, gas or motor aid (never used), no electric.
Chuck and Justin, You guys talked me into opening the motor aid option on our next trip. Previous owner never used it, and it appears the original owner never used it. I "exercised" the shut off when we bought the coach now it has the occasional drip out of the stem. After seeing the drip I envisioned catastrophic failure at a most inopportune time with hot coolant, under pressure, spewing and flooding the compartment, me up front watching temps climb wondering ....? It's been in the closed position since.
That said I'm opening it up. Boy is the DW going to be surprised when we stop for the night.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: dans96u295ft on February 28, 2020, 09:43:02 pm
I am not a full timer and my past heaters were dual and I still used the gas option, so not a big deal to me. I may add electric later. I dry camp most the time as well
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Realmccoy on February 29, 2020, 09:05:48 am
I'm saving this thread as a pdf for my documents file. Lots of good info. My electric side of the water heater doesn't work, but I've used the motor aid and propane. Had to replace the pop off valve which had started to release water as it came up to temp. Worked fine since that replacement.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Phranko on February 29, 2020, 09:15:14 am
Chuck, Don, Good advice, I'll get started on that today. Once I have all the parts in place we'll make a local run with the old valve open to gauge results. Good picture Don, always helps to have a picture.
Thank You!
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: dans96u295ft on February 29, 2020, 10:45:49 am
Getting the trim off was the worst part of the entire job. Drilled pop rivets, etc. They charged me 3 hours labor but didn't wire in the electric. The tech didn't seem confident in that area and their service manager had just retired for help so, I didn't want him experimenting on my MH. Later and after all this info, I'll get it wired up Thanks
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: defendertx on February 29, 2020, 03:39:16 pm
Howdy Everyone!
Its the weekend, and I'm working on the RV :-)
OK, silly question: As you know, I have a GCH10A-2E. This means gas, electric, and engine coolant modes. Is there a way to "force" it into electric mode? I've read through the documentation and don't see anything about that condition. I've turned the propane "off", so there is no gas getting to the water heater. Now, what I want to do is "force" it to try heading with electricity. I assumed, maybe incorrectly, that merely turning off the propane would cause the water heater to sense that it would not light, and then try electricity next. But, I'm not really sure about it. RV is powered by a 50 Amp circuit, and all other electrical devices are working. Anyone have any insight?
Thanks!
Mark
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Jack Lewis on February 29, 2020, 03:50:18 pm
Not sure where your on off switch is on your '95 U280, my '97 U295 electric hot water is a red switch down around the base of the bedroom bed, next to the circuit breakers. It will light up red when on.
I have two of these, one is marked hot water, the other, block heater. My hot water switch is on the left, as you face the bed base.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Rudy on February 29, 2020, 03:53:37 pm
The Attwood electric element on/off switch in my 1995 U320 is on the front wall of the bed frame by the 129 vac circuit breaker boxes. No automatic change over.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on February 29, 2020, 04:59:41 pm
As you know, I have a GCH10A-2E. This means gas, electric, and engine coolant modes. Is there a way to "force" it into electric mode?
Mark,
You may be thinking that you can only use one heating mode at a time - propane or electric. AFAIK, they are independent of each other.
So, if you turn on the "WATER HEATER" switch in the bathroom or kitchen (some coaches have two switches), the propane burner will either light or wait in stand-by, depending on how hot the water is at that time.
If you are using propane mode, taking a couple of showers and want to maximize the hot water recovery rate, you can also turn on the electric heating element (if you are plugged in or running generator). The separate power switch is on the bed base (see above). Then you will be using both heating modes, and the water will heat (or re-heat) that much faster.
When you are plugged into shore power it is more economical to use the electric mode alone because you are already paying for the electricity. In that case, you could add the additional heat from the propane mode if you desired more rapid recovery.
Use whichever heat source makes the most sense at the time, and don't be afraid to use both modes simultaneously when required.
The OPINION above pertains to my understanding of how Atwood water heaters work. Other brands may operate differently.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: jor on February 29, 2020, 05:39:53 pm
Quote
you can also turn on the electric heating element
Just have to remember to turn it off which I have neglected to do many times. Why Foretravel put that switch and the engine heater switch down low, at the foot of the bed and covered with a bed skirt will remain a mystery. jot
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on February 29, 2020, 05:42:52 pm
jor,
Are your two switches labeled so you can tell which is which?
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: jor on February 29, 2020, 06:04:03 pm
Quote
Are your two switches labeled so you can tell which is which?
Yes, all of mine have been factory labeled. For the block heater I eliminated the outlet in the engine compartment so when you flick that switch you are for sure turning on the block heater. jor
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Jeff & Sandy on February 29, 2020, 06:27:53 pm
One of my pups, 100 pound Buddy, likes to lie down the foot of the bed. I thought my electric water heater was toast. I ordered a new heating element and the tool to replace it.... then figured out Buddy was shutting it off for me.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: dans96u295ft on February 29, 2020, 08:52:54 pm
The new Atwoods aren't compatible with the old. One was 110volt and one is 12volt ignition. There has to be some wiring changes the way I understand it
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Jack Lewis on February 29, 2020, 10:45:32 pm
I've attached posibly your manual, (printer_output, file at end of my post). I agree the manual really does not easily spell out how to wire. That is probably because they expect a tech to do the install using just the wiring diagrams provided in the manual.
This looks like the water heater you bought for $600. If it is your installer must have blocked off your heat exchanger hoses. How do you turn off and on the gas heat now? A picture from you would help. Atwood GCH10A-4E Gas & Electric 10 Gallon RV Water Heater with Heat Ex –... (https://parts.unitedrv.com/collections/water-heater-landing-page/products/atwood-gch10a-4e-gas-electric-10-gallon-rv-water-heater-with-heat-exchanger-94023)
You will find wiring smple to do once you understand the following wiring diagrams. The hard part will now be to get to the required wires. If you have manual, follow instructions that are in the manual that came with your new hot water heater. If not, the file at the end, printer_output, may be your manual.
Also you will need a 12 Volt switch like this one I used when installing my new Arwood hot water heater. Your hot water heater should of come with a similar switch in white. Atwood 91270 OEM RV Dual Panel Switch - Google Search (https://www.google.com/search?q=Atwood+91270+OEM+RV+Dual+Panel+Switch&oq=Atwood+91270+OEM+RV+Dual+Panel+Switch&aqs=chrome..69i57.4939j0j9&client=ms-android-sprint-us-sscr-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8)
Your old 110 volt wire will hook up to the hot water heater as shown in the wiring diagram. The 12 volt switch will control both the electric and gas operation.
I can not imagine you doing this, without removing the water heater again. This is because you will need to find the unconnected wires they left and see where they left your previous 110V wiring.
I would expect you to find the 110v wires either sticking out of or tucked in the relay box on the rear of your heater.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: FourTravelers on March 01, 2020, 08:33:33 am
OK, silly question: As you know, I have a GCH10A-2E. This means gas, electric, and engine coolant modes. Is there a way to "force" it into electric mode? I've read through the documentation and don't see anything about that condition. I've turned the propane "off", so there is no gas getting to the water heater. Now, what I want to do is "force" it to try heading with electricity. I assumed, maybe incorrectly, that merely turning off the propane would cause the water heater to sense that it would not light, and then try electricity next. But, I'm not really sure about it. RV is powered by a 50 Amp circuit, and all other electrical devices are working. Anyone have any insight?
Thanks!
Mark
Mark, If your 94 U280 has the same WH as our 95........... then the gas and electric controls are completely separate systems.
The propane side uses a T-stat and a Hi-limit cut-off mounted to the front of the tank next to the igniter control box. The switches in the kitchen and bath provide power to these controls. If you don't want the propane to heat the tank then just leave these off.
Power to the 120 volt element in the back of the tank is controlled from the lighted switch at the foot of the bed. It supplies power to the t-stat and hi-limit controls on the back side of the tank. Don't forget there could also be a "on" off" switch mounted to the back side of the water heater also, in the same j-box as the romex wire connects to the WH.
If you have the switches "on" and the t-stat is calling for heat then you should be good to go. UNLESS the hi-limit has tripped (requires resetting manually by pushing a itty bitty button on the hi-limit itself) BE SURE POWER IS OFF AT THE MAIN SWITCH AT THE FOOT OF THE BED BEFORE POKING AROUND THRU THE ACCESS HOLE IN THE BAY.
If it still doesn't heat on electric.......... and its the original (20 plus years old) the ELEMENT could and should need replacing.
I pulled mine out after our last trip and replaced the element, hi-limit and t-stat. The tank looked good inside so I rinsed it well and installed the new 1000 watt element. Also installed a new Dinosaur control board for the propane side with new t-stat and hi-limit for it also. Re[placed the temperature and pressure pop off valve and drain plug too.
While it was out ...... figured it was a good time to replace the Motor-aide 1/2" shut off valve. Taking advice from this forum, (thanks Don) I went to NAPA and picked up two brass water hose fittings (not the barbed type). Works fine, no leaks ^.^d
I purchased the Dinosaur board from e-bay, around $125, all of these "parts" was around $200 and a Saturday spent doing the work myself. Should be trouble free for many more years. 8)
FWIW........... We really like having the Motor-aide option, and the new Dinosaur control board with the LED indicating lights is a nice upgrade too.
EDIT: if you pull the WH out, might as well replace the electric element and its t-stat and hi-limit cut out switches. Easy to do then, difficult to do if trying to access thru the small inspection hole in the bay.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: GuynChrista on March 01, 2020, 08:42:02 am
OK, silly question: As you know, I have a GCH10A-2E. This means gas, electric, and engine coolant modes. Is there a way to "force" it into electric mode? I've read through the documentation and don't see anything about that condition. I've turned the propane "off", so there is no gas getting to the water heater. Now, what I want to do is "force" it to try heading with electricity. I assumed, maybe incorrectly, that merely turning off the propane would cause the water heater to sense that it would not light, and then try electricity next. But, I'm not really sure about it. RV is powered by a 50 Amp circuit, and all other electrical devices are working. Anyone have any insight?
Thanks!
Mark
There has be a switch somewhere to provide the AC power to the heating element. Unfortunately due to differences in our coaches, I do not know where your Water Heater Electric Switch is, but maybe someone with a similar setup can chime in.
Guy
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: defendertx on March 01, 2020, 02:46:27 pm
Howdy Everyone!
Thanks for point out the switch under the bed. I went in the coach this morning, and there it was - shut off. I turned it on, the red light in the switch turned on, and then went to the sink and turned on the hot water switch. After waiting patiently for 30 minutes - nothing. :-( Clearly something is still not right with the electrical side. But, now that I know about that switch, I can start troubleshooting with the multi-meter. While I probably should just replace the thing and get on with life, I figure this might be a good learning experience for me. If I do decide to replace it, I might as well practice on the bad one to see if I can figure out what is wrong because I might have to someday do it with a new one. Plus, I'm kind of embarrassed about being such a newbie. No time like the present to start down the path of fixing that. Stay tuned - more to come on the trials and tribulations of the water heater! Good thing the RV is in my driveway and not on the road somewhere.
Mark
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: wolfe10 on March 01, 2020, 02:49:02 pm
On edit after reading the two posts immediately below:
The switch (if only one) at the foot of the bed turns on power to the outlet in the engine compartment. The block heater is plugged into this.
If two switches, one is block heater, the other the water heater electric element.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Chuck & Jeannie on March 01, 2020, 03:36:52 pm
The switch at the foot of the bed turns on power to the outlet in the engine compartment. The block heater is plugged into this.
Must depend on the model year, or perhaps what model water heater was originally installed at factory.
Jack, Rudy, jor and Justin (Reply #25, #26, #30 & #34) have TWO switches on the bed base - one is for the electric water heater.
Our '93 U280 does not have two switches - only one switch for the block heater. But, our coach only came from the factory with a 6 gallon propane-only water heater (plus MotorAid option). Since it did not come with a 2-way (gas and electric) water heater, I figured that was why we do not have the extra switch.
Mark (the OP) says he has a 10 gallon 2-way water heater, so I figured his coach would also have two switches. Apparently it does not.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: jor on March 01, 2020, 03:55:26 pm
Quote
have TWO switches on the bed base - one is for the electric water heater.
Yea, here's a photo of our 300. Our 320 also had the two switches. Can't remember if the 225 did or not. jor
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: defendertx on March 01, 2020, 04:17:51 pm
Howdy!
Looking at mine, it DOES have two switches - the switch on the left is labeled "Water Heater" and the switch on the right is labeled "Engine Block". Apparently, I have two switches. :-)
Mark
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: wolfe10 on March 01, 2020, 04:20:58 pm
Mark,
A suggestion: Update your signature to indicate what coach you have. That will result in more accurate information for YOUR coach.
Title: Re: Replacing Atwood Water Heater
Post by: Barry & Cindy on March 02, 2020, 10:27:21 am
search our Foreforum
you will find photos and story for those including ourselves that have done exactly what you are doing.