I just recently purchase a 1994 Foretravel Unihome. I drove the coach home (about 250 miles) with no issues and I really like the coach. However, I am having trouble with my Heart Interface. When there is no shore power you can turn on the switch on the remote panel (switch in "off" position on the unit) and the unit transfers power to the sub-panel and all seems to be fine. But when you connect to shore power (or generator) the unit will immediately shutdown and the display shows "inv/chrg; AC input; and Overload". Of course the result of this is the converter/charge function does not work.
So, just from what I can gander on previous post it sounds like my Freedom 25 probably needs to be replaced, unless of course some of you guys can tell me what to do to fix it.
I am not new to RV's/yachts so I generally understand the 12 volt and 120 volt systems. I have replaced a few "converter/chargers" with the newer units and they work pretty well. I do not need an inverter; my idea of "roughing it" is being in an RV resort without wifi. So, can I replace the Freedom 25 with a converter and "hard wire" the sub-panel?
Turn it off when you are plugged in. No reason for it to be on. Sounds like its working fine
You need the inverter to run the 12 volt things when you are plugged in.
Let's do a little diagnostics.
After verifying all connections are clean and tight at batteries and inverter, what is voltage at the house batteries before plugging in/turning on the generator? What is voltage at the house batteries after plugging in or turning on the generator?
12.6 volts with or without shore power. The inverter seems to be working without shore power because it powers up the sub-panel. Once shore power is applied there is no power from the unit; battery voltage stays the same and there is no power to the sub-panel.
Not necessarily - a converter/charger will supply all the 12V power required plus it will keep the house batteries charged.
Back in the day the converter/charger and the inverter were totally separate units. Our coach came like that from the factory.
Perhaps the internal transfer switch in the inverter has failed, or it is "stuck" in the "invert" mode. When shore power is applied to the inverter the internal transfer switch should change over to "pass through" mode and send power straight through to the sub-panel.
Should the switch on the inverter be on?
Try a hard reset.
I have seen many an original Heart Freedom 25 diagnosed as needing replacement, fixed by the following procedure.
The first was over 10 years ago, once two yrs ago on my own Freedom 25 in my current '97 U295, and the most recent by a forum member, I suggested this to, this past week.
I appreciated the pm from him thanking me, however, this forum has saved my butt many more times than one.
Many inverter/charger units require a hard reset to clear faults and start working properly again. This requires disconnecting positive and negative battery terminals from inverter/charger for 30 minutes. (For me it was easier to remove both cables from the inverter/charger at the batteries). Reconnect battery terminals again and unit is reset.
From the Owner Manual:
Freedom Remote Control PanelAn optional remote control panel is available. When the remote is used, the power switch on the unit should be left OFF.
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/Freedom_combie_Owner_manual.pdf
In OFF position, inverter/charger will "pass through" 120 VAC and charge batteries.
In ON position, inverter/charger will do "all the above" AND if no external source of 120 VAC will invert to provide 120 VAC to the sub-panel.
Your early serial number freedom 25 does not have the necessary according to the main battery manufacturers ability to auto adjust its charging profiles according to the batteries actual temperature.
So other than 77 degrees which is the nominal setting you are either under or overcharging your batteries.
Plus the non full sine wave output is 30% down on power and can damage appliances used off of it.
The internal contacters "points" pit from use and transfer less power through the unit.
Wires become loose inside from age and use and the boards get dusty.
A newer inverter/charger should fix the issues,
If the coach is a "keeper" and you want good batteries to stay good longer then a new unit is recommended
I have the remote panel so you leave the inverter switch off, on it. I set the dip switches to charge wet batteries as the factory setting was for agm. I also have to trip one of the switches to clean the batteries manually. The 25 is a great unit. I only turn my sub panel on when 110v is needed not plugged in or running the genny
The coach is definitely a "keeper". I installed brand new deep cycle "house" batteries. The sub-panel provides power to the microwave and several other items, so I need power to the sub-panel for normal operations. The other big problem I have is the unit is not putting any charge to the house batteries so any use of 12 volt systems is constantly discharging the batteries. I don't care if the unit is capable of using the batteries to provide 120 volts; I don't even need that feature. But I do need the unit to provide charging to the batteries for the 12 volt system.
Have you tried a hard reset yet?
I had this very problem with a Freedom 20, 16 years ago. If the Freedom 25 has similar construction to the 20, and you don't mind taking the unit apart, it may be "fixable". Don't forget to disconnect shore power and the 12V battery supply, before digging into it. As I recall, there's 2 vertical circuit boards near the sides, and around the transformer. The adjacent ends of these 2 boards have power handling connectors. I think they were 1/4" faston? Check all of them for good contact, especially the one(s) that has the heavy magnet wire lead; that's the one from the converter secondary winding. What I did was remove all of the connectors and clean them well. Carefully bend the heavy magnet wire leads so they will go straight on to the connector, and not put any stress on it/them. Then I plugged everything back in and soldered all of them with rosin core solder. I, also, re-wetted the solder where the terminals were attached to the board. IMO, the mentioned terminal connections are the only flaw in an otherwise excellent design.
It was still working perfectly when we sold the coach, last year.
Greg
As I mentioned the contacters wear and transfer less power to the batteries, mine was down 30%. Takes longer to charge up.
If you do not mind the incorrect charging voltages accelerating your battery replacement cycle by quite a bit and with the probable slower charging rate then you obviously can get by with your oem unit for a while longer. Hopefully it does not let you down at an inopportune time.
As we are shaky town(LA) residents a proactive versus reactive regimen we felt was a better choice as we needed as close to a 100% reliable coach as possible.
Thanks guys; I did try the "hard reset" with no change in the operation of the unit. New "house batteries", all 12 volt cables cleaned and all connections cleaned. 120 volt wiring checks out okay and all are tight. Next I will pull the unit from the coach and see what I can see. I'm leaning toward direct wiring the remote panel and install a high amp converter.
A temp compensating Converter would save your batteries