We decided to keep the coach here in Ajo year around and use it as a base since the yearly rate is cheaper than dirt. However, it does get a tad WARM here so I did some research and talked with a friend who's a installer and picked up this do-dad. We're going to try one up forward first and see if it keeps the whole coach (210 sq. feet) evenly cool. If not, we'll add another in the stern. My buddy says his power bill went from $300.00 a month using roof air (noisy at night) to $60.00 mo. with the '12k btu (quiet as all getout) heat pump that will cool and heat. Got all the remote bells and whistles I may or may not use, but looks to be the answer. I'm mounting it in the middle, where Brett provided heavy blocking for the fold-down t.v., which we'll not use, but have smaller one on the pull-out. I should get it next week, will post as progress ensues.
Curious how it works out.
I would say that is hot! My house and coach never see 75 except in storage where the thermostat is set at 79. Yes I am one of those people.
We turn our house up to 75 when we go out of town. We keep it around 70 - 71 during the summer.
I like the split systems. I am curious to see your final install and how you run the "plumbing".
I'm sure there will be some head scratching, but my plan is a plywood cover over one of the windows (hoping for the driver's side small one). And not screw the plywood into the rubber molding or the coach, but make some wood keepers on the inside to hold the plywood on. There's a install video in the add , sort of a joke for me and the coach, but I've learned a bit from it: Amazon.com: MRCOOL DIY 12k BTU 22 SEER Ductless Heat Pump Split System 3rd... (https://www.amazon.com/MRCOOL-Ductless-Split-System-Generation/dp/B083R2XNKD/ref=dp_ob_title_def)
Finally a Ft with a mini split.
I have been reading, watching and learning about them. Watching installs in buildings, boats and Rv also bus mods be it schoolie or bus.
Invalid Page | Indiegogo (https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/midea-the-window-air-conditioner-reinvented)
I have ordered 2 of the 12000 btu units from above. Watch the videos. Look and listen to DB levels. Living with the horrible roof ac units shoved into our hands is poor usage for return.
Currently I do not know how or where I will install them. Even though the video sez invalid on this post. It works.
I will watch and wait your install.
Me too, researched everybody who makes them and MrCool won, for many reasons. I have listened in and out of a 28' trailer while the 12k was running: it satisfies my recording engineer's ears and the DWs very sensitive hearing (think pin-drop!). ^.^d Amazon.com: PVC Decorative Line Cover Kit for Ductless Mini Split Air... (https://www.amazon.com/pioneer-conditioner-Decorative-Air-Conditioners/dp/B00CWNQL4C/ref=pd_bxgy_2/131-1392579-7207948?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00CWNQL4C&pd_rd_r=d93594f4-43eb-4030-a85e-e755366b0816&pd_rd_w=7pu1Q&pd_rd_wg=Kc3bN&pf_rd_p=fd08095f-55ff-4a15-9b49-4a1a719225a9&pf_rd_r=TGZ3Y59VCEPAZ46PNMK1&psc=1&refRID=TGZ3Y59VCEPAZ46PNMK1)
Some people I know who live in an RV year round in Fort Mohave, AZ (120 degree days) swear by their heat pump.
Curious on how you plan to run the condensate discharge line or if a condensate pump be needed?
If the air is extremely dry there might not be much, but in Texas, we have a steady drip out of our mini-split.
Interesting. Await your results. The savings alone will pay for the system quickly. Only works if your not very mobile though. I would mount it on the rear while figuring out a way to open the engine door easier. Have the cold air blow through the back of the coach to cool the bedroom and bath. Tying in to the existing ducts if your coach has them would be another way. Maybe access the ducts from the roof? Some heat shield paint on the roof would help as well.
Welcome to Ajo, Arizona
With its rich tradition as a former copper mining hub, Ajo is a casual town with relaxed charm. Enjoy it's mild climate, low humidity and clear skies. Take in the historic Spanish Colonial Revival architecture, Sonoran Desert flora and fauna and panoramic views.
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Lol. With that mild climate why do you need access?
Also might be cheaper to head up in elevation.
I'm a big fan of mini splits as well, installed probably a dozen of them into my and family members houses. They bat way above their ratings for cooling, I don't doubt a 12K unit will keep your coach pretty cool in the summer. Not great for heat in my experience, tho.
A couple things you might consider....just thoughts and observations:
The price you show is pretty high compared to what I've paid. I've been happy with Pioneer units, Amazon sells em. I strongly suspect they all come off the same assembly line. Pioneer has been good with warranty support, sending a couple replacement boards at no cost, no questions.
There are some good alternatives to the wall mount indoor units. In particular, there is a low wall/floor mount slimline fixture that could be tucked away in living room and bedroom if you want zoned. Here's an example....
Ductless Multi Split Air Conditioning | Heating System | DC Inverter - Highseer (https://www.highseer.com/collections/multi-zones-indoor-sections/products/18-000btu-multi-zone-dc-inverter-multi-split-system-heat-pump-230v-20-seer-floor-ceiling-mount-indoor-section-model-ub018gmfilcfhd)
Using one of these would allow you to install a condensing unit in a compartment,
Possibly repurposing the large vacant space that holds the often useless coil for dash ac in engine compartment. Also makes it pretty simple to run lineset along lower bay ceilings. That is, of course, if you want it to be a permanent installation usable on the road. I don't really see how it will be feasible to remove and store one of these units that is installed through the window.
Most units are, or are transitioning to, 240 volt operation. Several mfg. are phasing out 120 volt units. This creates a challenge with our gensets and electrical systems. Probably a couple ways of dealing with this but not trivial. All the multiple zoned units, afaik, are 240V.
They are delightfully quiet. They also seem to be somewhat sensitive to power surges. I'd be sure to have a heart to heart with the dealer to ensure future support. A positive aspect, if you have to buy replacement boards, is they are inexpensive.....I've never had to pay for one (replaced 3 out of 12 units in last 3 years) but when I checked they were in the 40.00 range.
Good luck with it. I've thought about doing the same and may well do so one day.
The condensate will be the easy part, how about the ac lines from the outside to inside unit?How will you mount the outside unit
on the roof, sideways?Agree they are quieter but at some point in the near future they will have one designed for an rv.Have you seen the ones that are like window units that you close the window on?,would check those out.I would check if you can make your
own lines up instead of using the 15 foot stock lines.
Agree with both Chuck and John. I installed a Pioneer in our house which I agree is a re-branded version and was less than $700 for a 9000 BTU version. I think part of what makes the unit in the link more expensive is the special fittings on the line set that makes is easier to install. I think the line set and the inside unit have been evacuated so you do not need a pump.
On the standard units, you can make up your own line set if you have a flaring tool and you will need a vacuum pump. If you make the line set too short (I believe less than 15 ft) you have to remove some of the freon.) If I recall correctly, the units comes pre-charged for a 15 to 25ft line set.
Ya, the Mrcool unit I got was the ONLY 110v unit they made! I did see a good bit of info on one of the crazy Utube videos where he'd hooked up to a circuit with a GFI and it was tripping the unit, something I'd had problems with when I installed irrigation controllers. I'll find a non-GFI 110 outlet for the cooler. They also are also susceptible to power surges, but with my Progressive EMS, I'll be protected. ^.^d The big deal will be to design the hook-up so it can easily unplugged when we take the coach out. I'm going to mount the compressor on concrete blocks with tie downs. The nice thing, is I've got lots of time to brainstorm (with all of you) a clean, classy install, although I got a warning yesterday: we had our first heat wave, and turned on the rear AC!
In order to snake the wires/drain into the coach I'll make a plywood cover that fits the driver's side window. In order to avoid drilling screw holes in the coach, I'll make a couple of wood 'keepers' on the inside that will attach to the outside plywood to keep it tight. Looking at this seal and a jig to make the keepers. GENERAL TOOLS, 837, CONTOUR GAGE, 6-Inch - - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA)
The lines are precharged with coolant ergo diy. Installed whole house AC in our house in NH years ago with precharged lines makes it simple to install.
Roland
Please post your energy costs as you gain experience with the system. I would be surprised if you see such a dramatic reduction in the monthly cost, but I'm confident you will enjoy the reduced noise level. Also please let us know how well the conditioned air circulates throughout your rig.
If someone were to be adventurous, the unit could be chopped up to repackage as a lower profile unit suitable for roof or basement mounting.....chop, hack, glue, solder etc.
I will, still concerned about getting proper cooling from the front down our narrow hallway to the bedroom. The quote was from my friend who also has a solar panel (not a full array), so that could have contributed to his numbers.
Check out this 'project': https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xE099gEf4f4&feature=youtu.be
I like the idea although that guy is an idiot.
He cut the supports for the wall and did not add support. That 2x6 wood frame isn't treated and will be exposed to the elements. It is only a matter of time before it rots and the whole unit starts to fall. He also doesn't think 8% blockage is significant. Good thing he has been in the industry for 75 years. Who needs engineers with that type of experience! His temporary wiring is also that of a professional, his words. In my industry there is no excuse for lack of safety and doing things correctly.
If I were to build a bus or redo one of our Foretravels I would be very interested in the split unit inverter driven setup. I haven't looked at the maximum amperage but with all the efficiencies stayed you would expect to be able to run a larger unit for the same amount of power. Being that it is a variable speed compressor you wouldn't necessarily waste energy all the time with a the larger unit since it will only use what it needs.
I expect the old roof mounted units have a SEER rating of less than 6, possibly far less. The SEER ratings of mini splits can go well up into the 20's. So, as I understand it, making 3-4 times more conditioned air per unit of electricity. If you run resistance heat, the difference of heat pumps is phenomenal, energy wise. My AC bill for a 3 story house on the Tx. gulf coast was reduced by 2/3 when I changed over from a conventional split system. This not taking into account we keep the house far colder with the new systems.
In researching the various units, I've watched a ton of videos and have not seen one that made complete sense! :facepalm:
That's why I'm looking forward to waaay lower e-bills: Federal Tax Credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency | ENERGY STAR (https://www.energystar.gov/about/federal_tax_credits)
Some of you may have seen my expression on the current Rv Ac units. Which are a total screw to us owner operators.
I have paid for 2 of the 12 btu Madea U shaped window Ac units. Please share ideas of how to use them with our coaches. Even if they are installed at days end. The usage I think after a day of driving would be welcome vice 72 Db drone, vibration of roof Ac.
On a stand alone Ft. How would a 8K and above power tech get 220v. That's required to really access all models of mini splits. Educate me.
Where to place the outside unit. Ideas.
In place if propane tank.
In a bay
In start battery compartment.
On rear mount. Still allowing engine door to open.
In roof. Behind a Aerodynamic wind blocker. (Clearance height xx).
Share your ideas. Via fourm here. PM. Or texhub@gmail.com
Thanks all. Mark
I messed up. My message was not sent. So I deleted reference to it.
Chuck in reply #9 had some interesting ideas.
Moving condition air inside the coach.
There are fans that can be installed into duct work.
The bilge blowers used in power boat industry fit into various duct sizes. These are inline fans.
There are high quality low cost pedestal or table top fans.
What would happen if a Dyson fan was placed horizontal at roof line. I dont know Db level if them.
There is high pressure small diameter home ac duct systems. I have no knowledge of these systems.
These are just off the top ideas.
The 2 biggest problems as I see it are taking away basement storage for the compressor (unless you can fit it in the engine compartment) and where to hang the large evaporator unit? I guess you could redo some of the overhead cabinets at the loss of inside storage.
There are some overhead cassette evaporators but the footprint is 22"x22" so you'd have to enlarge and reinforce the existing a/c opening and build a weatherproof enclosure.
There are numerous alternatives for interior units. Cassettes are needlessly complicated. Yes, condenser needs to be mounted somewhere and it could well take some bay space. Of course having a slick roof has its appeal as well. Silent, efficient AC= worth working for.
Another factor worthy of consideration is the fact that some of these units are effecient enough to realistically be powered by lithium battery bank, supported by the rooftop panels which are now installed without having to work around AC units.
Too many interests, too little time..
On my '93 Newell I had 3 Dometic split a/c units. The compressors were in a front basement compartment with the evaps under the dinette, under a kitchen cabinet and in the bedroom. Flexible ductwork carried the cold air up above the valences to distribute it. There were no overhead cabinets in the way. My '98 Newell had 2 double compressor SCS units that had compressors and evaporators in one large package. Ductwork carried the cold air up into the valences. Again no overhead cabinets. In each coach the units took up lots of basement room for the units and the central duct. It gave a nice open roof though. Plenty of room for solar.
Hopefully someone will come up with an easier way to mount mini splits.
My top goal is to avoid a permanent installation that would compromise the coach: I want to keep it available and road ready, so 'quick connects' are high on the list. The other thing is mounting the (heavy) compressor in the coach will compromise the space I have for 'stuff' AND add noise through vibration and proximity to our living and sleeping areas; so it gets mounted outside on a set of concrete blocks and bolted down on rubber pads. I'm leaning to towards a temp. mount on the front console before committing to a easily removed hanger on the upper center where Brett installed the hinges for the flat screen. I grabbed a screen shot of how one guy mounted his and mine will have to be basically the same (only a solid piece of wood and trimmed to look better). Those Utube videos are worth the boredom; I do pick up some ideas (in between laughter) I'll post the SS when the wi-fi gets better.
Let's try this install pic.
Here's a fun one: I call it "Hippy dippy man bun meets mini split' :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFkLrGx6la8
As I look and study. These are some of the more useful mini split installs. Some have feedback of actual usage. No one is doing 220 v install. Last night I was reading about a unit that would connect to duct work. That might be very much like the Prevost install. There are many options, just have to hunt down figure a way. Also anyone have a way to generate 220 v. That opens the door to 24 btu systems with multi heads. Think bed/bath and frt of coach. With a heat pump system.
The China diesel heaters are another system with possibilities for heat. There by removing propane for us aqua hot devoid owners. There are China diesel heat/water units also.
Videos
https://youtu.be/GvdIe0AkXV8
https://youtu.be/hNiFDMonKGk
https://youtu.be/pYhJz6ScJfk
The above one is a bare bones simple. Using a window opening as the site for install.
https://youtu.be/xE099gEf4f4
https://youtu.be/IHDT5ZEpKkw
https://youtu.be/OmOkQerIITk
https://youtu.be/hNiFDMonKGk
The 2 above are install and review.
https://youtu.be/aDXKuZaMXoY
https://youtu.be/-xg0KODch9g
Install in bare bone trailer build out.
https://youtu.be/4Qkzb_bFP4M
https://youtu.be/9q8VDRfprkQ
The above 2 are on a schoolie conversion. He also does china diesel heater install in other videos. They seem like a possible good replacement option for none propane heat.
https://youtu.be/xPs1bpGUU1Q
Bus install.
These are a random selection some of the installation are well thought out.
For those who think about the condenser going into a bay, you gotta have at least this; weeds out my GV: Best video I've seen today; smart cookie......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmOkQerIITk
So they are getting closer to actual rv uses as in the video above.. Nice ^.^d .... If you were able to convert I could make this work but the remodel would be the problem... Take the 2 ac off the roof and tie this thing into the duct work off the bath and the pantry (on my model.. Pretty easy considering building a bus lol (who has that kinda time).
Thinking since I took the muffler out You could make a box and shield it form the elements for the most part..?
Its all possible with a lot of time and money... maybe they will make conversion kits soon? next few years.
LG LMU240HHV 2-LDN127HV4 2PREMTC00U 24,000 BTU 21 SEER Concealed Duct RED... (https://www.acwholesalers.com/LG-LMU240HHV-2-LDN127HV4-2PREMTC00U/p79362.html)
I thought about hooking in to the front and rear furnace ducts, also, but it would be impossible (almost) to do it and still keep my two fresh furnaces; same with removing the roof air units: should I get a wild hair (what few I've got), I want all of the above in working order. ^.^d
Ok.. Pandoras box is open.. feel free to be lost in the abyss ... Thanks Tex!! :)) >:D
Amazon.com: COOPER AND HUNTER Dual 2 Zone 12000 12000 Ductless Mini Split... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPW9CMD/ref=psdc_13397451_t4_B071WBMN5M?th=1)
I think I can really get this to work now with minimum work..
Did I mis-read or is shipping weight 350 pounds??
If so, sure hope most of that is packaging!
Yes.. read one was 450 but I assume it crating ..I have seen these close up 75lb to 100 for the outside fan (approx) and the inside is about 50lb I would guess
That sure precludes the DIY possibility!! :facepalm: Mine is 110 lbs shipping weight for both units, making the air handler about 20 lbs. +/- ^.^d
Love it! Keep thinking and sharing!
The utube poster
"Breakfast in the morning"
He is very good at explaining, photo and then in his blog posting parts and again how to. I suggest you look at his extensive videos.
Headlight
Taillight
Solar panel system
Actual build out of interior
Painting in Mx.
All are educational for us that want to DIY. His repair/rebuild with Diesel monkey is also information on mechanical issues. Sure not our setup, but can be of interest.
How do we make 220 power with our coach's basic setup??
Thought it was a pretty good setup. While I'm not currently looking at this type of unit right now, off the rear end seems like a good solution. Wouldn't be to hard to switch out to 240 V and go with a dual system, one in front, one in back.
Might be better to encase the lines in 1/4" ply with a venier on it.
But my ac works great right now.
For me it wouldn't be that dificult to do. I would have to add another victron inverter, and change out my manual transfer switch to 240 V. Add a breaker panel for 240V for the AC .and switch the generator to 240. Might be a bit more to it but not much. Coach already is setup for 2 hots and 50 amps.
Mrcool comes calling Wednesday! b^.^d Here's the final pic of the day: I THINK the condenser will slide right under; would be perfect, hopea hopea!
https://youtu.be/q_LvnDeXTZo
Fast install. Warning he has some cool tools. Manual flaring tool from Hf, works also.
https://youtu.be/oLLjmtHZlQg
He needs to at least glance at instructions.
https://youtu.be/GxlewxYU620
https://youtu.be/bf2XMT7Qqrg
This is 36k
Mr cool installs
Good videos; for those (like us) that are 'hearing enhanced', here's the specs and comparisons on how quiet MrCool is;
Here is some info about high velocity ac.
https://youtu.be/LHpPq61ns48
Mark
I removed my dash AC and that space is enough for the outside unit., right behind the bumper.
The ice maker cabinet plus a little of the closet should fit the indoor unit . I can drain straight below . This puts the cold air in the middle ish of the bus and should be quiet for the bedroom.
The only issue is I will need longer lines.
FWIW this thread belongs in the renovations.
The New MRCOOL DIY Is Engineered For Comfort (https://mrcooldiy.com/product/mr-cool-diy/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwu6fzBRC6ARIsAJUwa2RMP861DkuTXt376YopTFQuPlLInhgviRkTahlgrASBpd3SLe8SCcIaAsTDEALw_wcB)
12K is 32 in long. Maybe remove the front heater under the sink/counter? 32 is much longer then the ice box hole.
https://youtu.be/7q20piOLgQ4
A new one!
Let's be cool friends!
That was probably the best video yet.. From start to Finish. Informative ..Excellent post/find.. 800 watts Uhh wow.... 1/2 of what my 1 ac uses.. Only issue is the cooling of the rear of the coach.. I still like those mini split with the ceiling vent/unit..
I found a small unit for the bedroom I think I am going to mount where the muffler was.. Its not a split but its just for the bedroom.. Build a box for it to sit in off the rear door by the resonator and feed the air lines through bed base(im thinking)..
I'm about to install ours: finished the stand for the air handler to mount on the dash, am making a plywood cover for the driver's-side slide window w/a 3" hole for the umbilicals to go outside to the condenser. With limited wood working tools and non-dimensional lumber, it's been 'a challenge', but came out o.k. Will post some pics when it gets closer to operation. BTW, here's the view from the woodshop at Shadow Ridge Park!
I think these installs look like way too much work, and some are pretty awkward. That said I'm sure they work well and most likely folks are glad they did it.
But if I were doing it, here is what I would use:
(https://www.fujitsugeneral.com/us/resources/images/products/split/floor/rlffh-series/top/img-floor-radiator.png)
Then all your lines can run thru the cargo bays, secured to the ceilings. The condenser....either in the engine room, or in one of several possible cargo bay locations, install louvered door and enclosure inside. (P.S the floor mount evaporator not the steam rad).
I'd also like to point out to folks working on these installs that there is a short very flexible "whip" that allows tight connections to the inside unit. It has a very short bend radius compared to the copper lines.
I just installed a Mr Cool 24K unit at the house. Have yet to fire it up . Should be Tues at the latest. FWIW try to stay with the big hole to the right side of the inside unit. I needed to use a left side exit and the pipes are not designed for it. This 24K unit is pretty big.
The Gen 3 MR Cool units are pre vacced with quick breaks on the lines. Pretty easy install . My Concrete block dictated where the 3.5 in hole had to go MOL.
Seer 20 or more . Made very nicely and smartly designed . I hope that it works as well as the reviews.
For the Bus, the 12 K should kill it .
Guess while we are on the subject of cooling.. anyone familiar with the interior ceiling removal of a 2002 U320? I have really been contemplating adding and ac in the bedroom (trying something different right now but) .. Really looking at these registers and if the ceiling can be removed halfway easily I am really thinking of adding one of these with the registers in the ceiling.. Also on the BTU ratings.. a Single register model with a 12k BTU rating.. How would that compare to the 15k of the roof air?
Could you go lower on the BTU rating? I would think so but I am no experts on the subject.. I have always been one of those that you cant have to much AC in the desert.
The 12K is rated for 500 sq feet; our coach is around 240, so plenty there. They question we will answer soon is " since the inside handler sits on the dash, will it cool the bedroom without freezing us up front?" We have considered a separate one for the bedroom. The fins are adjustable in angle, so we'll fool with it. BTW, the factory (who have been VERY HELPFULL) could only say, "try one first." ^.^d
yours should work very well in your situation.. I am talking about the ceiling registers like I posted above and in here... With the heat of 115 or so in the desert I think you would need 2 registers in the living room, 1 in the bath and add one in the bed room.. I am thinking it would work fine that way but still would need a 120v unit or how hard to make it work on 220v and everything else 120v?
In thinking about this.. maybe wouldnt need to remove the ceiling? using the duct work that is already in place for the how runs? Cutting a ceiling area towards the front off the ductwork? Hmm
My goal is to get the interior to my age; 75. The pic was taken last June with only the rear roof air running.
Mike I bet you are shocked at just how much that 12K unit will crank out. I pulled out a 3 ton (36,000) Btu central unit and installed a 24,000 Mini split. This is South Tx., house a block off the beach. Hot and humid. The mini split can get it so cold your teeth hurt. The 3 ton central unit would struggle to maintain 76 degrees and never cycle off.
I have posted before the intrest I have in utube poster William Prowse (solar,lithium guy). Well one of his most recent videos was yanked.
I say this because I saw it. In the video he took 2 mpp units with 4 battle born batteries. With solar panels. He was able to setup a 220 system with mpp having 120 vac supplying to the appropriate cb panel box. It was so simple. Worked perfect. I have over simplified the setup as there was some kind of link between the 2 mpp units.
Hopefully he will be able to bring it back onto utube.
For the electric pros. Wouldn't this be a way to provide 220 to a ac system in our coachs with a minimal footprint and actually be cost effective with a current solar installation.?
Wondering if you just take 1 leg of each to the AC? Thinking it shouldnt be to hard but it is a DIY and probably will need someone with a certification of sorts to figure it out..
From what I have read about this DIY stuff.. cant be to safe anymore and you need someone to certify the Build and Results.
Ebay has 110V models for about $500 delivered, some advertised with Toshiba pump. smart 12k 110V Air conditioner | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=smart+12k+110V+Air+conditioner&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=smart+12k+110V+AC)
Pierce
Anyone have any idea if you can take both legs of the 120v and create a 240v? Is that even possible?
Not real sure if I totally understand your question. If you are hooked up to 50 amp service in your coach between both phases of 120 (to neutral or ground) you will have 240v between them. On your 50 amp cord you have 4 wires, (B)ack, (R)ed, (W)hite, & (G)reen or ground.
B to R = 240V
B to W = 120V
R to W = 120V
B to G = 120V
R to G = 120V
If you are hooked up to an RV 30 amp it is only 120V so you can not get 240 out of it. You can take a transformer and use it to boost 120V to 240V
It looks like "Senville" and "Mr Cool" have the best ratings. Samsung is NG and Toshiba is a maybe . There are new style DIY systems that do NOT require a vacuum down. They cost a couple more but saves the service fee unless you have the AC service tools.
The Vacc machine will require an adapter to fit the R410 fitting.
I can fit a 28 in long unit in the place of the forward heater on my tiny GV. The out side unit fits easy behind my grille , in place of the OE AC bits. This is about 16-20 ft hose run . Well inside of the parameters ,but a longer hose $ option.
Went to the FT today and did some lookin' and thinkin'. It should be possible to mount the inside evap. unit in one of the front overhead cabinets. In my 36' the opening is 34" long x 14" deep x 12" high. To make it easy you could just remove the door and mount it inside the cabinet. Of course you would lose that storage space. Then you'd have to run the tubing and wires back to where you mount the compressor unit. Looks like there would be enough space to mount 1 or 2 where my muffler was. It would be really nice to convert that lower body panel to a hinged panel. If I'd ever do this I wouldn't want to lose any basement storage but could get by without an overhead cabinet or 2.
For the bedroom the side cabinets are probably too small but the rear overhead cabinets are big. You could mount the evap. unit in the middle and cut down the 2 doors to preserve storage. Converting to minisplits is starting to look better all the time.
Put a 12k btu in the front and maybe an 8k in the bedroom, would this be enough for everywhere but AZ in the summertime?
MrCool does not make a 8k unit, or anything smaller than the 12k. I face the same quandry if we have to go to a bedroom cooler, too: "where am I going to hang it?" You need at least six inches of clearance above the handler to suck in the hot air, which is what I had to go through in designing my wood platform for the front dash. One thing about having a rear unit, is the noise level, and power need is reduced, big time. I'll post some sound charts and you can see just how quiet these babys are!
9000 BTU Mini Split Air Conditioner with Heat Pump Remote and Installation... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/9000-BTU-Mini-Split-Air-Conditioner-with-Heat-Pump-Remote-and-Installation-Kit/222636620309?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225654%26meid%3D7b003a20f7954c278d5c720a2737bb8f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D12%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D352657210272%26itm%3D222636620309%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb%26brand%3DSenville&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
This one is pretty small .
Keep in consideration for the inside unit that the hose s exit the rear of the unit through 3 or 3.5 in hole. That precludes anything above the floor for the front of my bus, but above the bed looks very do able.
The front heater box also.
On the floor along the pas wall( under my desk) .
The bottom of the couch maybe
Amazon.com: ClimateRight 5,000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner, Heater, Fan,... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LU8ZDSU/?coliid=I340T7O62SFMM7&colid=2KD1SESMNBKX2&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)
bought one of these a little while back.. pretty cheap (what I paid).. going to try it and see how it works in the bedroom only
David, the problem with that type of unit is the fact it pulls in outside air through vents and door seals to replace the exhaust air.
Doesn't it just suck in air from one tube inside and cool it, and return it through the other tube? Think in an outside unit, condenser would be seperate? I know the one tube inside units will do what you say though.
It has 2 hoses.. 1 for air and return I believe.. YouTube has some videos I think
If it is exhausting to the inside it would not cool the coach, and if it exhausts to the outside the vacuum created will pull outside air in to equalize it. Think reversal of pressurizing to find roof leaks.
https://youtu.be/kfXzRHo4gAM
That would work, the unit sits outside of the area it cools. Works like a roof package unit for a house with supply and return.
Two completely separate systems. Cooling side intake tube from coach to evaporator that cools air, then to exhaust tube that returns cool air to coach. Condenser side is outside, Outside unit air blown across condenser to remove heat that stays outside. Much like your roof air, without ducting. Don't forget, unit is outside coach. just like your roof air is outside coach. Inside units are completely different.
Think more like your house system, condenser and compressor outside, heat is rejected outside. Only difference is evaporator is outside and just sucks in warm air from coach, and pushes back in cold air back into coach. Good system, pressure in coach remains constant. Kind of a poor man's mini-split.
Thinking of building a insulated box where the muffler was... having this sit in the box and the filter vented through the slats on the grill. The hoses will run through the bed into the bedroom.. just thinking out loud at this point.. havnt plugged it in and tried it yet
Don't put it in an insulated area, it will burn up the compressor. The coils have to radiate the heat or cold air pulled from inside. An example I had experience with in the crane business was old condensers were smaller than the new high efficiency ones. The original units were installed in concealed boxes on the roofs for cosmetic reasons. When new condensers replaced the old ones, not enough air could get to the coils and they burned up the compressors.
10,000 btu Portable DIY Air Conditioner & Heater | Shop Now (https://climateright.com/climateright-10-000-btu-portable-air-conditioner-and-dehumidifier-with-heat-pump.html#product_tabs_product-specs)
Looks ideal for a front mount with some through dash hoses.
Maybe better than the minsplit as far as inside space is used.
Here's the finished stand and air handler on the dash. I've got a scrap piece of plywood to even the load with the plastic supports, too. I'll never be able it to center it because of the dash lifting on the left, I'll be able to move it over a little once I get the unit fired to see how the application goes. Making a plywood piece today to fit the slider window with a hole for the return lines, power and drain tube to go down to the condenser, which (I hope) will mount on a pad underneath just in front of the wheels. It's gettin' "warmish" here; I better get movin' !
The main insulation was to keep the engine heat off it.... thinking the grill and enough room around it with the filter part facing out should do it.. I think..
In a GV, there is a lot of wasted space up behind the front bumper, both in the middle and the sides. The weight of the big unit is about 69 lbs so not much of a problem building a rack to hold it. Here are the dimensions: 31.25 x 7.25 x 11 in (Indoor Unit) – 35.8 x 15.0 x 23.8 in (Outdoor Unit)
Also like David's idea if you have a resonator installed. Lots of room where the muffler was.
The efficiency is not very good, both for heating as well as cooling. See the energy guide at: 16 SEER 12000 BTU Ductless AC Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump -... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-SEER-12000-BTU-Ductless-AC-Mini-Split-Air-Conditioner-Heat-Pump-110v-120v/322240692092?hash=item4b070abf7c:g:VqoAAOSw4A5YvJR0)
Another option would to mount a high efficiency window AC under the front of a GV and duct the cool air to the main salon. Much easier to bring cool air to the interior than running plumbing. No possibility to use re-circulation this way. These Energy Star rated LGs are available in several 115V BTU ratings: LG Electronics 12,000 BTU 115-Volt Window Air Conditioner with Remote and... (https://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Electronics-12-000-BTU-115-Volt-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Remote-and-ENERGY-STAR-in-White-LW1216ER/206520589)
Pierce
Here's what the 12k Mrcool is rated: VERY GOOD! Here's where the condenser will mount.
I lit my new Mr cool 24k unit at the house today. Unbelievably quiet . My fridge might be louder than the inside unit. The smart remote can be set next to you and the temp will correct to wherever you are at.
Looking very hard to find room for the 12k inside unit in the bus. 32in long .
Under the couch appears to be the best use of space . Build a vertical panel set back 7 in with provisions for air flow .
Mike,
Post photos when you get a chance.
I see they are advertised as "high efficiency." The Dept of Energy sticker shows they are about the same as the ebay models. Wonder why the difference?
Pierce
Mike,
You don't have the Dept of Energy sticker off the box do you?
Pierce
I too am a fan of his. It looks like he will not be putting it up again, his video with a split phase solar system. He yanked it, he feels too much posible danger with 220 volt systems. This is why, go to 22 minutes in on this recent video of his. You will hear why.
I can picture the rv now, with a big warning to firemen down the sides in big print, "Warning, 220 volts". 110 volts is dangerous enough, it sounds like 220 volts is a whole level up.
https://youtu.be/auows4dPvOc
i like the idea of a 120v to 240v stepper ... should be able to hold the current I wonder..
somthing like this thing
Actually you can get 120 and 240 out of one single inverter, the Magnum 4448, but the input has to be 48 volts, doable but not that easy, on a coach. I use one on my S&B to supply 220 volts to charge my EV. Use the 120 to run fridges and freezers.
Here's mine 24 k in my house .
There seems to be a new version with the inverter fan and possibly compressor motors.
Look for the GEN 3 DIY versions.
Nope, it got cut up and recycled. RV parks frown on big boxes lying around. Good spec sheet if you scroll down: MRCOOL DIY 12,000 BTU Energy Star Mini Split Heat Pump w/ Smart Controller |... (https://www.sylvane.com/mrcool-diy-12000-btu-energy-star-mini-split-heat-pump-smart-controller.html)
Thank you for that information.
I am in the beginning of learning solar and lithium. Already leaning toward 48 or 24 system. I like the idea of building my own battery. Also like the idea of the used market. My funding is frugal which doesnt really match the Foretravel account. But I will make it all work. Safety always job 1.
Why don't you think your funding is frugal and does not match the Foretravel account? There are lots of members like us that are on a budget. That's the way we like it and we have prospered because of that outlook. You must have seen my solar cost list from a decade ago. $1400 for a first class solar system (plus less than $400 for batteries) is not going to break the bank. Solar panels are cheaper and more efficient today. I don't even look at it any longer, it just keeps on ticking. This is not rocket science even though many shops blow up the rocket in their shops. I can always post the list again with internet address and cost for all the items.
No need to go used for any of the solar components as they are cheap! Used exotic batteries might be the exception.
Pierce
About the same energy storage of 5 Battleborn's.
Nissan Leaf 48v Battery G1 Lithium Ion 7 kWh 132 ah 2 x BMS 60A Lot of 14 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Leaf-48v-Battery-G1-Lithium-Ion-7-kWh-132-ah-2-x-BMS-60A-Lot-of-14/124114860556?hash=item1ce5d27a0c:g:SmUAAOSwmQNeaXNS)
Y'know, I question the need for a high dollar lithium battery bank. Just not seeing the need when far more efficient systems already are installed in your Foretravel. Propane refrigeration, 12 volt lights, pump etc. Any decent battery bank will carry you with an occasional bump from the genset, or a modest solar panel installation.
I hear people say they are running their microwaves off battery bank to make breakfast.....or run Mr. Coffee. Whaaat? You don't have a propane stove? French press?
A solution looking for a problem.
I actually run my ac of the batteries when driving or sitting. I havnt ran them all night yet but should just for fun to see what it does.
Who needs a french anything with LITHIUM?
Sure...crank em down to max cold overnight and get back to us.
A lot of people with Thor's and Winnebago's say why buy a Foretravel, my coach can do everything a Foretravel does at 1/5 the cost. Human nature, some people are happy with a Corolla, some need a Lexus. Some people like to run their generators, some would like to use solar and big batteries instead.
I used to be happy with my MGB, till I bought a Porsche.
No more testing for me for the most part. when you get to 7800 hrs on the generator you kinda look for avenues to not use it as much Or at least I do. every little bit helps... Some understand it and others dont.. It doesnt make it wrong or right it just makes it what it is.
How longs did your Ac last, just on battery?
Yes Chuck, exactly. While I do turn off the inverter when we go to sleep, the 400 plus amp hour batteries still run the Mr. Coffee latte maker and the microwave without starting the generator first thing in the morning. I do watch the voltage drop down when the micro is on but I'm hoping the new sine wave inverter will be more efficient and run longer and have less of a voltage drop when used. Propane and solar with an occasional use of the generator for AC make great partners.
Pierce
I guess the universe can be balanced.. hmm who would have thought ^.^d :))
More than one way of making coffee or skinning a bird.. cant remember
To each his own. Don't want any flammable gas on my coach or boat. It's great until it's not. Energy storage has evolved. Where weight and space is a issue, it's a no brainier to go with lithium. It's just the matter of pay now or pay later.
For home systems not as important.
There are many ways to cut the mustard.
As far as the mini split systems, don't really see the need at this time unless your going to be staying full time in a high heat environment and have limited access to good electricity. They don't scale well to a coach. But I will continue to follow the work other's are doing. Never know.
For me the true value of some day going to a mini split vs. roof top is more the quietness rather than the lower power usage.
Not trying to get anyone riled up here, just offering a different perspective. My statement was "I question the need". Your MGB/Porsche analogy is not about need, but want. Two different things. Injecting an element of snootiness into the discussion with the Corolla/Lexus statement is unhelpful. It's a mistake to try to count the money in another man's pocket.
I keep in mind the people who visit this forum who are in the beginning or prospective stages of Foretravel ownership. I am making the point that it's not necessary to dump thousands into redoing the existing highly efficient power systems. They may want to, and in that case, great. Do what makes you happy.
I would encourage anyone doing it to proceed in an analytical fashion. The first rule of efficient design is to eliminate the parasitic losses and inefficiencies. Some of this is happening, folks are talking about modern alternatives to the ancient power hogs of air conditioners currently sold and installed on motorhomes. To me, its absurd to consider packing enough battery power to run those old dinosaurs. But that's my opinion, and everyone is free to do as they see fit.
When I was researching 'splits', sound (or lack of) was paramount, and after hearing a Mrcool at my neighbor's coach. I was sold. The savings in power usage is just gravy. Our roof air Carriers are very efficient and we've (because of the great insulation we have in the coach) yet to fire-up the front air also to keep comfy. The rear and a small fan work great. BUT, come nightfall and bed time, there is NO WAY we can keep sane trying to sleep with the noise of the RA. We're looking forward to making a summer here in SW Arizona, but without the help of our Mrcool, we'd be "screwed, blued and tattooed' ! ^.^d
Morning Chuck.. As you said. You hope one takes an analytical approach to there upgrades.. Problem is we all have different approaches and it doesnt make it right or wrong either direction.. You are correct Do What Makes You Happy.. No need to say its not needed or its Overkill.. I am sure the Adult will decide what they want to do according to their budget.. I really never have a budget I have a Need/Want and it does make me happy.. Sometimes it cost more money and a redo of sorts but I like the learning aspect and I live by the Moto.. Its only money.. I am relatively young and still working so not worried about what I spend and defiantly do not need anyone else losing sleep over it either.
Back on topic
The Ac I had ordered is 120v so I can tie it in under the bed into the fuse panel.
For me, its all about sound / along with the modern efficiency improvements above the roof top units. I need a new rear AC or a mid mounted cold air source of some sort . I dont have endless dollars like many of you . I do have pretty good engineering skills and problem solving skills.
The minisplits are stupid quiet appear to be frugal electrically . If I can fit one inside of the couch footprint that would be a win . If I pay attention, maybe I can get another Pure Sine Wave invertor to drive it . The running amps are in range of a few. My cheap 2 Lead acid 8d batteries run my fridge 30hrs through a cheap PSW inverter.
No snootiness intended. My Corolla/Lexus statement was only to demonstrate where your comfort level was, not the amount of money you have. Your statement "I question the need" is from your perspective only. Years ago, I was quite happy with tent camping, and did not ever think I would ever need, and appreciate a motorhome. Times and attitudes change, now I want the fancy model with all the bells and whistles. For me, and many others on the this forum, there is no absurdities in upgrading these old coaches, and most do start with eliminating parasitic losses and inefficiencies, before going onto solar and battery improvements. I actually enjoy that part of it.
I have friends with expensive bass boats with expensive trucks to pull them. I do not believe that it is absurd that they "need" a $750 trolling motor on their boat, because they do enjoy them. Not my cup of tea, but I would never question their desire to have and enjoy them. To each their own. If you are happy with what you have, more power to you.
Totally agree. Enough said on my part.
In regards to the quietness issue, I can't relate. Having worked the last 35 years mostly on night shift I rely on a loud large floor fan to provide the white noise needed to sleep during the daytime. After so long I cannot sleep in the quiet. Some sort of white noise is necessary for me. As well as good air flow.
However I do agree that one should reduce their power needs to the maximum possible before thinking about upgrading to solar or advanced battery systems.
The one thing I don't like about the roof air conditioners on the coach is the condensate issue. Having that exit under the coach would be really nice. That I'd pay money for.
I could not believe it when we bought this coach that the condensate just found anyplace to drain. On all four of our Airstreams, the AC units sat in a 'pan' with a sealed rubber drain hose running down the walls, through the floor and daylighted! I would put my air hose on it every season or after a storm and blow it out: easy peasey!!!! Sure not pleased with the lack of that ! :headwall: :thumbsdown:
That was one of the things they did to get you to upgrade to a new unit. The 2014 IH45 I have has drain pipes that run to back on the roof, then through the roof and exit back behind the engine on the ground. When on the tour of the 2020's they now have the hoses going from the roof AC inside the ceiling and exiting down in the back
$750 wont get you much of a trolling motor these days. My bay boat trolling motor setup with everything including the connected chart plotter was around $5,000 and I did the install myself. Granted it was the top of the line with all types of automation.
I also agree with the surprise of the random condensation dump. We had the water draining right onto the entry step at our last camping trip over spring break. It was so annoying I tipped the coach back to run the water away.
[quote author=mike leary link=msg=384981 date=158567 Making a plywood piece today to fit the slider window with a hole for the return lines, power and drain tube to go down to the condenser, which (I hope) will mount on a pad underneath just in front of the wheels. It's gettin' "warmish" here; I better get movin' ![/quote]
Here's the piece for the umbicals going down to the condenser, got a 1" drop from the handler, so it will drain to the ground. I'll seal all the edge grain w/epoxy and give it a couple of coats of Minwax. Not sure I'll use the pvc 90. I let-in the plywood edges so it fits snug on the inside and have enought room on the ourside for foil backed insulation. The inside keeps should hold the plywood, but I'll put some Gorilla tape on the outside to prevent any rain intrusion. Comin' along, just in time!
Watching to see how it works. Looks lgood ke we are stuck in Yuma for awhile. At least we are under cover.
I plan to fire it up soon, will let you know. If you decide to go my way of install, would be glad to come over & give a hand. ^.^d
Some coaches have the condensate drain into the holding tanks,
Silverstrand SB in Coronado will not allow water on the ground. Including condensate
Wow that seems a might bit extreme. Heaven forbid I where to spill a happy hour beverage. 😎🍺🍷
The state beach had numerous issues with people using hoses to rinse off things and pets and people which then ran into adjoining camp sites.
A rv was in the middle rows of the parking areas with dark paint and multiple slides pushed out and their roof airs on at 10 am with the windows open and the entry door open and people and dogs going in and out. A small stream of water was coming off their coach onto the ground and running into the adjoining spaces. No dirt. Asphalt only. 40' X 20' spaces.
Ranger came over to explain that they could not discharge water on the ground. Upset lady telling the ranger it's ac runoff.
He said makes no difference. No water on ground. Period.
Not sure of the outcome as I was walking through the campground.
Poorly insulated dark brown multi slide coach was hot inside I am sure.
Our white coach down the row has never needed the ac on at the beach
Seems as tho. with some thought , you could run the condensate into the fresh water tank. A couple of filters and some bleach mixed in. It is fairly pure water.
Geez ,122 replies for a thread I thought only a few would have interest in ! ^.^d Here's a update: "MrCool is up and running, and , as advertised, (like quieter than a whisper). Some fine tuning to be done, but all in all, a good (and COOL) day!
Today......can't find a 22 or 45 pvc ell in town, but did find....... ^.^d
Like Mike, I'll be spending my 1st summer in AZ. I'll be attempting to get by with my old Coleman TSR's. I'm thinking I'll put Reflectix on the windows and skylight for added insulation and I just saw a video that warned that putting the Reflectix on the inside of windows could cause heat related problems with the glass, including breakage.
Based on that, I'll probably put Reflectix on both the inside and outside of the windows. Any thoughts?
We do everything backwards like the contrarian in Little Big Man so we usually end up staying home in Arizona during the hot months. I find that if I put the Reflectix stuff on the outside of the windows the roof air does a good job of keeping the interior cool (well, not hot). Be sure and cover your wipers. One summer sitting and exposed and they're done for.
jor
We've used the 'bubble wrap for insulation/ heat reflection and it works well; used velcro to affix it on the inside. We also had a shade unit made for the windshield, which helps, too. RV Windshield Covers & Window Covers | Enjoy a Cool Environment (https://www.shadepro.net/product-category/windshield-covers/) I've made covers of BW for the dash, steering wheel, instrument cluster, Allison controller as well as the leveling jack cluster; keeps the dust down and reflects the damage full sun can do. I'm going to make stand alone reflective shields for the tires and outside small awnings. After seeing many coaches with destroyed tires that had the covers, I've only used Permatex spray-on protector, but facing a summer down here, the bubble wrap on a free-stand will give air circulation in between, that most covers do not. Lastly, and, most important for sleeping to beat the heat is..........MRCOOL DIY 12,000 BTU Energy Star Mini Split Heat Pump w/ Smart Controller |... (https://www.sylvane.com/mrcool-diy-12000-btu-energy-star-mini-split-heat-pump-smart-controller.html)
I went to Home depot and bought the shipping bubbles and cut them to fit my daughters windows in her house.. pretty sure they built her house with no insulation and put a 3k AC in the attic.. Hot in the summer in phoenix... noticable difference as soon as it was put on.. and easy to remove.. Like Mike.. sprayed the window and stuck the bubble wrap to it.. just pulled it down in the winter and washed the windows.. was halfway cheap and an easy fix.
Just covering my shower skylight reduces the solar gain a lot .
I use Reflectix on my windshield to keep heat out in the summer and use it to keep the heat in in the winter. It make a big difference.
Shortly, we'll feel if all the work (plus a CB++) is worth it!
Yeah we're starting to getting into summer here in South Texas. It's not the heat I mind so much, nor even the humidity is much although that can be a killer, but it's how long it just goes on and on and on. Six to seven months of summer time is not fun. Six to seven months of winter up in the Pacific Northwest when we live there wasn't fun either.
I heard about the 75 degree trip or circuit. I looked it up seems you can stay in that temp range if you drive around the country in a certain way have to try it one year.
A LOT of Foretavel owners from the hot Texas area spend summers in Angel Fire/Eagle Nest are of N NM. 8000' plus means great summer climate. High over the next 10 days is 71 degrees F with very low humidity.
Hoping to head that way in July.
Believe me, we sure thought about Angel Fire, but the one Park we called wanted $900.00 mo., a little steep for we , po' fok'
Yup at 900 a month, time to buy a house. 😎👍🍺
It's not just Angel Fire that's pricey: all the Parks above the 6/7 k elevation: Payson, Flagstaff and Prescott, have gone thru the roof in the past few years WITHOUT any improvements or percs. They know they've got most of us in the lower desert climes by the short hairs, and want to profit NOW! Granted, they only have a limited season to make money and I understand, but the prices have not gone up A LITTLE; they've skyrocketed! :facepalm:
Mike,
Have you checked here-- this is where many of the Foretravel meet in the summer: West Lake RV Park | WEST LAKE RV PARK (http://www.westlakerv.com/)
Looks like $330/mo plus electricity (but electricity is minimal, as A.C not needed at this elevation-- over 8,000'): CONTACT GLENDA | WEST LAKE RV PARK (http://www.westlakerv.com/contact-glenda.html)
I am not trying to rub salt into wounds just saying it like it is.
Hard for us to move from here other than a scenery change to get motivated to leave our humble abode.
70's to low 80's during summer.
60's in winter.
Yes it's expensive. Beach 1 1/2 mile away.
Doheny state beach is close.
I do like angel fire idea although. May see you there?
We lived in Los Angeles for 6 months 20 years ago or so. I really liked it there. We lived in Westwood. Worked at UCLA medical center. We still have family there. I thought about moving their permanently until I started looking at the real estate expenses. Said no thanks.
This year, my first year full timing will be Northeast from here. I plan to spend a month or two in Pennsylvania then head on up to Nova Scotia. I'll take my Jeep up into Newfoundland. On the way to Nova Scotia I'll head through New York Connecticut Vermont New Hampshire and Maine not necessarily in that order. I've always wanted to see Cadillac mountain and bar harbor and Maine. In Pennsylvania I hope to go back to the first place I ever did camp and backpack on the Appalachian trail north of Harrisburg. I'll also stop in Philadelphia and see family and friends there that I haven't seen for many many years. Hope to be back in Texas before Thanksgiving, and out again sometime after Christmas or New year's. I love New Mexico and I've always wanted to backpack in the taos area. My son and I were supposed to backpack up the wheeler Peak once and we never did make it. But it's been on my wishlist for a long time.
Bob,
Wheeler peak (Elevation: 13,159′) is right out your window from either Angel Fire or Eagle Nest.
It has already been 108 over here by Bullhead City and I haven't even turned on the AC yet. I'm keeping cool with this Hessaire MC18M swamp cooler. It uses about 5 gallons of water a day. I'm in the shade though.
Hessaire MC18M Indoor/Outdoor Portable 500 Sq Ft Evaporative Swamp Air... (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hessaire-MC18M-Indoor-Outdoor-Portable-500-Sq-Ft-Evaporative-Swamp-Air-Cooler/716070521?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227239128047&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=286029625415&wl4=pla-483068667826&wl5=9030366&wl6=&wl7=1013412&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=716070521&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwka_1BRCPARIsAMlUmEp6EyQUNbRGRAuRVrzH6AJ9EoP06FtS_3f-E_QsinfRJ0p3z01YW8EaAiKXEALw_wcB)
Cadillac mountain is only 1530 ft and you can drive to the top. Back in the 50's and 60's the upper classmen at BHHS would take some freshman to the summit, strip them naked and leave them there for initiation. It was only about 3 miles downhill to town with a phone booth enroute near the Kebo Valley Country Club.
In the fall.............you can bet there were some cool freshman.
https://youtu.be/0JvEVIfuSYM
Next week, we'll REALLY start finding out if MrCool can do his job.
Just got the first full month bill for the house with the MR Cool running. Our consumption dropped 50%. 21 KWhrs from 40
Our first power bill with 100% MrCool will be coming up shortly. I'll be able to not only check it with my previous files, but check it vs. our neighbor, who has dual heat pump/ac units on the roof of his 36' 5th wheell and runs 24/7 (noisy as heck, too). One thing I do know already, is our propane bill has gone waay down, since we don't use the furnaces anymore to take the morning chill off. ^.^d
Glad to hear your mini split is working for you in the intense AZ heat.
I just saw this video of a portable mini split AC that was built into a expedition RV. It's pretty cool how he tied into his own duct. It makes me think that the condenser/compressor portion could be installed where I am removing the old muffler and the air handler could be incorporated into a cabinet in the bedroom. If it were kept at the floor level running the hose set would be pretty easy. It would take a bit more planning to try to tie into the existing duct work.
It could also be setup where the hose set was split into 2 pieces so that you could just plug in the inside portion in the months that you want it and set it on the floor in the bedroom. Would have to look at how condensate flows out. A Lifepo4 battery set could run this overnight at his stated average draw of 550w/hr.
YouTube Link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=12&v=woZH85EiHNY&feature=emb_logo)
Forest Air (https://www.forestair.ca/en/fiche-produit-mini)
When we got our power bill, we was very happy! MrCool ran 24/7 all of May; average outdoor temp. was 95 degrees. Used no roof air, no furnaces in the a.m, kept us comfy at 75 degrees. $20.00 !!!!!! ^.^d