I was going to put tire covers on my tires. I noticed that the wheelwell was actually resting on the back passenger tire.
I never noticed it before.
It has been parked for about a week.
My driveway is quite level so I just turn it off when I pull on.
All of the other tires clear by 1/2 to 1 inch.
I have read some previous posts but I'm not sure if this is serious or not.
What would be causing this.
Thanks
Sounds like one or both of those air bags have a leak,if the other 3 corners are not going down then start the coach and let it air up
and check the bags themselves and the fittings for leaks with soapy water,do that then give us an update.
Could also be a small leak in one of the solenoid valves.
Check the small vent hole in the HWH manifold ( by the dump solenoid )with bubble solution to check for a leaking dump solenoid and take the line off the ride height control valve that comes from the HWH manifold and check for bubbles from a leaking travel solenoid.
Ok. Will do.
Later model coaches (99?) Had a small spacer installed on the subframe to limit the tires up movement preventing the tires from touching the floors underside.
That, of course reduces the coaches ability to adjust for unlevel ground by that amount.
Posts are here from long ago referencing this issue/mod.
It is apparently normal in a mid to late 90's coach if the corner needs to lower significantly to level
Tires contact wheel wells above tire when parked or no pressure in airbag. (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10383.0)
Watch for wheel well damage and do a visual check once travel mode is achieved to make sure you're aired up and off the tires before moving the coach
He said he is on level concrete, think he has a leak.
On occasion when setting up, I will have to manually raise my coach a bit before hitting the level button to avoid sitting on a tire. It depends on the pitch of where I am parking.
Jeff,
As the coach was built it is normal for the coach to go down on the suspension hard stops when leveling and at that time the tire will touch in the wheel well.
However ( if the coach is in the original configuration ) the weight of the coach is sitting on the suspension hard stop not on the tire wheel well contact point.
Look at the tire foot print at the ground and at the top. Foot print will be larger at the ground where the tire is supporting the weight. At the top the shoulder of the tire probably isn't touching the wheel well.
It's normal, nothing to worry about.
The skid marks in the top of the wheel well mostly in the front are from hitting a big bump that bottomed out the suspension.
One thing to keep in mind, the outer dually on the high side on a unlevel site will hit the top of the wheel well before the hard stop on that side will touch. This can result in deformation transmitted to the floor above. When you dump the air and the coach is on very near level ground, the hard stops will contact before the tire puts any pressure on the structure above.
Don
My understanding is that the early Unicoaches did not have the hard stops welded to the subframe.
99 and up? May have the small round "washers" welded to the subframe
Ours has the stops. With 295/75R tires, all four corners will make firm contact with the underside of the floor when the springs are dumped, on level ground. 295/75Rs are readily available at most truck centers, and more reasonably priced than RV specific tires, so I plan to continue using that size. With the ride height set to the factory spec of 8" spring height, as noted on the underside of the hinged dash cover, the trailing arms, panhards, and drag link are running "uphill", and not parallel to the ground/chassis. I'm in the process of raising the ride height in 1/4" increments, then taking a trip (200 miles minimum, including a "nice" :o section of I-10), and noting the handling characteristics, and tendency to rub tires on the whoops. The ride height is currently at 8-1/4" and the coach seems to drive a tad better. Will try 8-1/2" next, and test. Around 8-5/8" is as far as I'll go, since that's where everything will be parallel. (Subject to testing, ideal IMO) At that point, I plan to make stops, added to the factory ones, that will limit the tires touching the floor to a light kiss.
Greg
Careful with changing ride height.
That short drive shaft and transmission can become VERY unhappy if angle is changed much.
Shocks can pull apart on extension if ride height increased too much.
My '95 U320 did have those washers on the frame for the suspension hard stops.
Interesting point Don. Has anyone had any damage to the coach floor due to this?
Maybe the reason the spacers were added after a certain year?
Yes, I have inspected a couple of coaches where the top of the wheel well was worn though the waterproof "covering". Certainly could have occurred if someone started moving the coach before at ride height.
Certainly worth looking up in the wheel well to verify you are still waterproof.
Probably a good time to remind some of our newer Foretravel owners about the "TRAVEL" light and what it signifies:
"
The "TRAVEL" Light. This green indicator light will only work with the ignition on. This light is on whenever the ignition is on if the leveling system panel is off, provided there is sufficient air pressure in the suspension. The "TRAVEL" light only means the leveling system is off and the air system has started to build air pressure.
It does not mean the vehicle is at the proper ride height"
As Brett says, the wheel well damage will only occur if the owner "jumps the gun" and tries to move the coach prematurely.
Brett i'm talking about damage from leveling the coach when it sits down on the hard stop. On an uneven site like Don is talking about.
John,
A little hard to tell the cause for certain, but in the ones I have seen, there appear to be black streaks on the "burned" wheel well ceiling-- like the tire was moving.
See this post by Neil Pillsbury Subfloor issues - preparing for vinyl flooring (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=32981.msg297437#msg297437)
(and also some of the other posts and linked topics in that thread)
Mine are worn through. Too soft of worn Koni's allowed excess body roll
Michelle,
Interesting post.
My coach was always dumped and sitting on the stops when in storage. Never noticed anything. I was concerned that if I left it level and one corner leaked down and sat twisted for two weeks it would be bad.
With all these coaches if this was a design issue you would think we would see a lot of this. Like rear bulkhead issues.
Wonder if moisture had anything to do with the damage these coaches suffered?
The skid marks in the wheel well can come from driving away before the coach is up or when the suspension bottoms out on a big bump while driving. In any case when it wears through the fiberglass water can get in.
That needs to be addressed.
Certainly agree. Easiest fix it to get a thin sheet of aluminum that well more than covers the damaged area. Paint the side that will show if you like. Bed with a polysulfide and screw each corner. If ever damaged again, replace the piece of aluminum.
Let's wait for 18360 to make the suggested checks then try to help him with his question.
I will this weekend.
I have a 5 in crack on rear drivers side that came with the coach.. I know bedding in a sheet is the best fix but probably have to pull the wheels to get a drill up there.. Have the means but sure hate to pick up the air impact right now.. Time being I think I will raise the back end and put some fiberglass mat over, knowing that the next time it comes in contact the mat will be done..When time and schedule allows will get the young helper to pull the wheels and I will do it right.
On those hard stop washers I added a piece of 3/4"plywood about 2"sq and put a bunch of caulking between them. That was a few years ago and they are still there. It assures the wheel will not be up against the top of well. Have not had any negative results.
JohnH
Picture when you get a chance.
Thanks,
John, I have a similar idea using urethane sheet stock. Selecting the right durometer, thickness, and square inches, for front and rear, should provide an effective "soft" bump stop, while keeping the tires off the underside. I was considering a means of mechanical attachment, but your idea of using adhesive seems much better (and easier)
There's a good selection of urethane stock to choose from: McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/urethane)
Greg