Started to put in recirc pumps in so we will have instant hot water. Tomorrow I will start to remove the old fridge.
[fixed topic title typo - Michelle]
Got the old fridge out of the motor home and the new fridge in. Getting the old fridge out was hard. It is so heavy and getting the
new fridge in was easy.
We love pictures. ;D
I will when I get finished. Doing pictures I have to figger it out again.
The new fridge is installed and just need to get the pantry built and finish the trim around the fridge. The recirculating pumps and
plumbing are done. Just need to find some kind of timer switches that I like and install them.
I have been using these timers for several things in the coach.
Multi Functional Timers (http://timers.shop/Multi-Functional-Timers_c_15.html)
Use in combination with Bosch style relays to operate solenoid valves or latch and unlatch your water pump latching relay. The sink adapter does the same thing (provide a ground path) but a Bosch relay is cheaper and more common. The wifi timer relay is easier to program from your phone rather than the pulse mode but both work well. For your recirculation pump you will probably need to adjust the "on" time more than once. We installed a temperature gauge to see what the temp at the manifold is and this made us go from 20 seconds to a minute. I have a temperature gauge at the AquaHot too. Sensor is behind the thermostat plate.
Thanks Roger. I haven't figgered out how long I want to leave the pump on. It could be to just get hot water to the tap or keep
the pump gong until we have finished the dishes or shower. Doing dishes I find the temperature will drop if I am not using the
water. The electronics store I go to is closed because of the virus.
Water Pump Push Button Switch, Water Temps and Recirculator Switches (run and on/off)
Temp gauges are only on when the water pump is on.
I have 2 pumps, one for the kitchen sink and I will use the valance light switch, as they valance lights were removed by previous owner,
for the kitchen. I will change the switch for push switch and the bathroom pump I think I will use the fill switch. I don't think I will
bother for temperature gauges. I used 2 pumps as it was a lot simpler to do it that way.
Love the good thoughts and engineering.
In our off road dry camping days in the 80's as we could dump grey water we brought extra water various ways and either gravity or pressure filled.
These methods would extend things even more.
Great work. Thanks
I am filling in the roof vent and have two layers of glass on and would have had the last layer on but forgot to sand off the paint
around the outer edges. I will do the last coat this afternoon after I get back from a hike.
I was going to glass in the side vent but I would like a cover that I can get into that area. It would need to be able to block any air flow.
Does any one have any ideas.
That area is what I used to bring my solar cables through. Even though it had been glassed in it was visible.
I can take a pic. of mine later. The factory cover has the vent slates sealed up. Like you say it is a good place to have access to.
I was thinking of cutting off the vents and covering them up but the frame is old and has a crack in it and will probably brake so I
would like to find a cover that would fit the hole. I will put Styrofoam insulation in side the cover.
Roger,
The BIG RED BUTTON on the left, is that your PANIC BUTTON........?
Just the water pump button, easier to identify, easier to push.
Hmmmm...
I was hoping for something a little more exciting, like the ejection button for the toilet.....
Same big bush button in the bathroom. No eject seat.
What refrigerator did you go with? Were you able to go through the entry door or did you have to take a window out? Thinking about doing the same on our 1998 36'.
Thanks,
Glen
I went with a Frigidaire model FFHT1425VW. It was the only one I could find that would fit. I pulled the wheels off and made up some
aluminum slides and angle aluminum to hold it down. With the doors off it will squeeze through the front door. I took the screen
off and undid the door arm so the door would open a little farther. I undid the passengers seat and moved it back out of the
way and undid the entry handle and tied it back. Taking the old fridge out was way harder then bringing in the new on. There is some
metal flashing that shows up after the door is off that will make it a lot easier to get it out. As soon as my son helps me download
some pictures I will post a picture of it in. We bought the fridge from Costco.
Peter
This is a picture of the fridge and the drawer below. I haven't put the doors back on yet.
We shall see if the picture shows up
Will the door open wide enough to move the shelves? If not, hope you have them set up the way you want them.
I set the shelves up the way I want them before I put it place as I didn't know if they would be removable and I just went out and
checked and they won't come out.
Got the pantry built and installed it today. All I need now is to find a latch with a handle that I like and will work. I will take
pictures when I'm finished. I've also built a dinette and I just need to get the table done. Does anyone know if there is a color
code for the counter tops.
Finished the recurc system today with the installation of the timers.
I made a door latch for the fridge. I need to get some stainless screws to complete it.
Sorry I forgot the pictures.
Craneman, You asked if the draws would come out and at the time I thought they wouldn't. I was pulling the shipping tape off
the draws and tried to get the draws out and found if I twist them they will come out.
Mine don't come out but my fridge is 22.8. They do pull out to reach the back but I would have to remove the freezer door if repair was needed.
I have been waiting for the latch which got lost in the mail for the pantry. The latch turned out that I had to put a 3/4 piece of
walnut to make it work. So this is it finished.
I now have been using the recirculating hot water system I put in and it's awsome. No more wasted water waiting for hot water.
Thank you Roger for such a great idea.
Well after 4 years of enjoying the recirculating water I had been thinking that the hot water should
be coming faster for the shower. I knew it would be a little bit slow as for the length of the hose from
the valve to the shower head. Checking it out I wasn't getting hot water to the valve just to the tee in the
recurc line. After a lot of checking everything out I finally realized that I hadn't turn the valve back on from
the water distributing thing. So we were getting hot water quicker than before we weren't getting it
as quickly as we should. The hot water for the shower was back feeding through the recurc line from the
sink. It is now working better.
What did you come up with to block your side vent door on your fridge? Same issue, I just can find insulation that will fit in it so I am considering replacing the whole door
I bought a Challenger vent. Topic: Fridge vent (Read 455 times) If you type in Fridge vent in search
it will come up and the size and everything you need is there to get a new vent door. I took a picture
how I insulated it.
Link to topic: Fridge vent (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=46041)
I left the outside louvered door behind the fridge in place. In the summer I cover the inside of the door with screening to keep bugs out. In the Fall,Spring, and Winter I put a piece of insulation in to cover the doors vents.
I like the door because it helps cool and ventilate the fridge ( Bosch side by side) and it gives me easy access to the back of the fridge to drain or flush water lines for the ice maker and water dispenser.
Anything to ease the access to something is golden in my book.
Another thing I like about the door is it gives wider access to the back of the fridge.