Need some suggestions.
-Step goes down a little slow but not bad
-Step will not close immediately, it usually takes between 10-20 minutes, sometimes longer, I've only seen it close with the engine running.
-applied magnet to door and solenoid is clicking each time I apply it with the key turned on but won't close
-not sure how to check 12v since power is screwed onto one end of valve and no way to get to the leads on the female end with the power (should I cut wires to check voltage?) see picture
-took apart norgren valve, cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Same issue
Don't know much about valves so specific suggestions with simple instructions would be much appreciated
Thanks for suggestions in advance
Thanks Barry and Cindy and Pamela & Mike for your prior posts
mine is set at 60 psi then you can fine tune it through the norgren exhaust.
check the regulator and make sure its getting pressure.. sounds like something is stuck until it bounces enough to pop it loose and do its thing
Valve is probably worn out if the cleaning and lube didnt help?
how was the inside?
Mine are both pegged at 60psi, step and step slide.
Wasn't dirty or anything, not sure what I should be looking for?
I tried rebuilding mine originally.. they were full of cocaine .. ok maybe not but it was white and taste funny..
Just bought new replacements and I havnt had to worry about it.. Id rather spend on new than rebuild most of the time.. .. Most.
Mine too, do you remember what replacement you used. Was there any modifications needed?
how much pressure is showing on the regulator?
If you have about 60 psi then turn the regulator down to "0" and remove the air lines from the valve to the cylinders, turn regulator back up to about 60 psi and you should have air escaping on the N.C. port. Try actuating the valve again with your door or magnet and see if the air switches from the N.C. port to the N.O. port. If not then the valve is stuck or has an obstruction. If it does and you have plenty of air flow on the N.O. port, try connecting just the N.O. port back up (this port should retract the step) and check for "blow by" through the cylinders.
Disclaimer........... I have a U280 GV and this worked on mine......... yours may be different.
Good Luck!
60 psi,
What do N.O. Port and N.C. port mean. Sorry haven't fooled with these before.
Normally open and normally closed.
Ill see if I can find the norgren as they changed since I ordered and only difference was the mounting.. Nothing a zip didnt fix
Step and step cover cylinders (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37099.msg355191#msg355191)
I would replace both.. I ended up doing the other a year later and the part number was discontinued but this should give you a jump
David will this still work?
Norgren - V61R517A-A312JB - Solenoid Valve, 5/2, 12VDC, Spring Return, 1/4... (https://www.alliedelec.com/product/norgren/v61r517a-a312jb/70799170/?gclid=CjwKCAjwpqv0BRABEiwA-TySwcSpmTPA74kjHPayYzKHwccb4Wxar72uTqZFEshafB6QL8kuWlPZZxoCZGMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Lol to much stuff going on at my house.. posted the wrong part.. or maybe I didnt.. time will tell. Check the throw and the overall measurements to what you have if you decide to replace the cylinders
Try this one
https://octopart.com/v61r517a-a312jb-norgren-70892008
they are the same.. this is what I have in my notes
Have you tried adjusting it?
Don't know how. What do you suggest Chuck? One thing I have now is time. Honey do list is getting shorter.
Will do what Foretraveler suggested today.
Anything else I'm all ears.
The exhaust ports on the norgren.. they are the ones with the little filters on them.. IN and OUT .Back the nut off and take a flat head screw driver and move it in or out ... that will slow the air down from exiting or allow more so that the step is able to come up or down. Maybe the filter is clogged or the exhaust is needing of adjustment.
Foretravelers switched the lines between the valve and cylinder and the step closed fine.
So looks like the valve is stuck?? Air is only flowing out the bottom port. Nothing is flowing out the top port when I actuate the valve.
Removed the valve and will try to clean the exhaust ports and all fittings on the valve.
If all else fails, I know of one guy (Francis) who got fed up with the air leaks, disconnected all air from the door cylinders, capped off the air supply, and installed a 12v electric actuator with a switch. He loves it.
Bear with me I'm a rookie.
Can't get the air fittings off after soaking with wd40.
What do you recommend? Anything other than wd40?
50 % Acetone and 50 % Brake Fluid
Are you trying to remove the adjustment fittings, not the supply? If you use a 6 point socket you should be able to get the fittings out. If necessary a heat gun could be used but not a torch as there is rubber in there.
I was trying to remove all fittings to clean. I assume if that doesn't work I will have to use these fittings on the new valve.
The supply fittings are a standard item that can be bought many places.
It'll take a bit of torque to break the sealant but then they'll come out pretty easily using either a socket or tubing wrench or even an open end wrench if it will fit. Better not to use an open end or crescent wrench since the brass is pretty soft and easy to round off. Use a wire brush to clean off the old sealant, reapply new ptfe sealant when re-installing.
Tommy,
The valve sounds like it's just gummed up. Try freeing it up with some light weight oil down each port opening. These are piloted valves so it needs pressure for the spindle inside to actually move.
Here's an old link to a similar post:
Entry step/step cover solenoid/norgren valve (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=28407.msg239341#msg239341)
What about that kind of relief valve? What is that style relief valve called? In case I break one like I already did😳
Is this a suitable replacement
Quietaire Series, speed control muffler, 1/4" NPT male port, 40 µm sintered... (https://www.imi-precision.com/us/en/detail/mm002a)
Or is there a source for the same one?
Exhaust Port Flow Control: Screwdriver Adjuster, 1/4 in Male NPT, 300 psi Max. (https://www.grainger.com/product/1EJU3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0eeBifvW6AIV2MDICh01MgZcEAQYASABEgL4lfD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI0eeBifvW6AIV2MDICh01MgZcEAQYASABEgL4lfD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275810!!!g!469967173860!)
Are the threads still in the valve?
No I was able to get it out and have ordered a new valve and muffler from see photo. Cleaned all openings and fittings and sprayed in silicone grease to lube but had no luck, could only get solenoid to actuate to open step not close step.
Was a great learning experience. I've been a little apprehensive about fooling with anything to do with the air system but it wasn't hard with all the help from you guys! Thanks a bunch! Hopefully I'll get the new valve installed when I get it and working properly.
I had a similar problem with my step, but my step would not come out. Replaced the muffler and selonoid
and still did not work. It ended up being the clipboard cylinder. The cylinder that moves the step in and out.
Replaced it and everything worked great. Yours maybe different.
Also keep in mind the air cylinder can leak in the open or closed positions. So check them periodically
Changed the air line to the cylinder and it worked fine to close the step. So think it is the solenoid.
Need some problem solving help.
Replaced valve (all wires and ports hooked to same # as original valve)and it is acting just like the one I replaced.
Door open air out of bottom port
Door closed air out of bottom port
Solenoid is actuating when door is opened or closed
If I hook up the cylinder to bottom port it opens or closes the step fine when I switch the lines
Took both green wires off of magnetic switch and tested by touching those together and put meter on this wire and ground and got 12v
What next?
I wonder if it's the door switch that tells the valve when the door is open or closed?
Pretty sure when switch is closed (when door is closed) it closes step so by touching the 2 green wires together on switch I closed the switch but it still didn't change the port that air blew out of.
Don't think not having muffler/diffuser on back side would affect anything??
Do you have the 12V DC coil?
Did you plumb up the air lines number for number? Or did you go by position?
OK
one of the wires to the solenoid comes from the door switch, the other should go to a good grounding connection on the chassis.
(if it is like mine)
Make sure you have 12v on one when the door is closed and (ignition on). connect your test meter in between these to coil wires as if it was the solenoid (should have 12v)
This is to insure the ground wire has a good connection, and ohm test on the ground wire to a known good ground would be better.
You had stated earlier that you could hear the valve "click" (I believe) so this is puzzling because that should mean the valve piston is shifting. Can you hear the new valve actuate also?
Yes can still here the click.
Will take apart and test the 2 wires at the valve to make sure I have 12v there and will try to track down the ground wire
Yep
make sure you have a good connection to ground on the white wire, the "click" could be the coil pulling in and dropping right back out.
Remember......... remote troubleshooting isn't the easiest way, just throwing darts here.
Any help is better than none, thanks for your patience! I know just enough to be dangerous!
Are you putting the part in a vise?, if not that would work.
I did follow the air line position # for #.
What do you mean by "do you have the 12v DC coil"?
If you mean the plug they supplied I will check that out. Sorry not too fluent in electrical or mechanical lingo.
Do have 12v valve and checked and do have 12v at the plug in to the coil on the valve.
My job is getting in the way this morning so will look for ground later
For lubricating WD40 is NOT good for that, people think that it is for some reason.. the WD stands fro Water Displacer. Use what Rudy mentioned above or if you want the convenience of having it in a can ready to go Aerokroil and CorrosionX along with PB Blaster are good choices to help free stuck parts.
Keith
You will be fluent, you will be.
Two things about the coil that makes the valve work.
The most important is never apply power to the coil when it is off the solenoid. If you do the coil will burn out. The solenoid is the piece of metal that moves inside the coil. In this case the stem on the end of the valve.
The other one is that coils are meant to be exchanged so the valve can be operated with several voltages and AC or DC electricity.
If it's a new valve I would suggest not putting any lubricant in it.
If you must, the best is a oil approved for pneumatic tools.
Adding a lubricant is counter productive. If a lubricant is necessary it would have been added at the time of manufacture. Adding oil now only washes out the lubricant. These valves are meant to be used with dry clean air.
Haven't seen one post about verifying the air pressure with another gauge.
Haven't tried verifying. But if I switch airlines on the output side the step does close. Problem is cant get the solenoid to change Air to the other output line through the solenoid. At least the way I understand that it is supposed to work.
Thanks for the heads up, I haven't applied any wd40 to the new valve.
I have been doing the testing as described above at low psi. Do I need to turn it up to 60psi to get the solenoid to work? Have only been turning it up until I hear air coming out of the bottom port. So in other word does the air regular need to be at or close to 60psi to make the valve switch from bottom port to top port?? Or does the valve switch with the 12v applied by closing the door?
I have one in the shop, will test it shortly.
without air the valve doesn't move on mine
Maybe they are connected to the wrong ports? I think I had some old pics of mine in the forum with the connections shown. Not sure.. Hate Gremlins
Get the pressure set at 60psi so that will be off the list
Yes. The valve is a pilot operated device so the solenoid valve switches a small valve the provides the air to operate the large valve.
If you're going to shoot yourself in the foot, film it and put it on you tube.
Grins.
maybe your gauge is stuck at 60 psi but you are not getting 60 psi? maybe after you bounce around it opens to allow the pressure to move the step? .. maybe a one way valve (if any) from the tank or manifold (not sure where the air line originates) is Wonky?
If it is an "air piloted valve" it my need over 25 psi to activate. We have some
MAC valves here at work that are that way.
I would hook up the lines to the new valve and turn the pressure up to 60 and see if it works.
Aaah the famous "percussive adjustment".
As usual with me it is operator error. Not sure what PSI triggers the valve/solenoid but when I got the air pressure up to 60psi the step worked like a charm. Thanks for all your help! Be patient, I'm getting there. I'm certainly not as green as I was yesterday 😳😳😳
Thanks for all who contributed! I certainly couldn't do it with out you guys!