Searched the forum but nothing for gas GV 33 TAG. we want to travel with a 450 lb motorcycle and tow a 14 ft fiberglass 35 hr outboard speed boat. Found haul master double hitch that will allow us to add a bike each and extend the receiver for boat trailer
But cannot find tongue weight max. Any recommendations. ??? Tongue weight is minimal on lightweight trailer
You will need to know the rear axle capacity and what it now weighs. Then the math starts, you will be adding the weight of the rack and motorcycle and tongue wt of boat and trailer usually 10% of weight of them, plus the added weight coming off the front axle moving to the rear axle. That will take a search for the formula which is based on the distance from the rear axle to tongue of the boat trailer. As long as the added weights don't overload the rear axle you are good to go.
The GCWR minus the GWR on the plate next to the drivers seat shows the tow capacity. 10% download is the norm.
I think I remember from when I sold that one new that the hitch is good for 300 pounds.
I would weld extra tubes to the rear subframe to mount a heavier load instead of the stock hitch.
You have an air tag so increasing its pressure with the load may allow re-leveling of the vehicle.
Whether this overloads anything is unknown.
The more weight you add, and the further back from the rear bumper of your coach the more the towed equipment wants to steer your 33' rig.
I added a ReadyBrake extension to our 36' GV and immediately felt the towed vehicle affecting steering. It took a while to get used to it.
OOPS--Hadn't had my coffee yet.
Who makes or made "Easy Brake", I have not heard of that before?
The hitch tongue weight is the limit for this . IMHO. The leverage value of the standoff hitch will lever on the receiver.
Stabilize the receiver and the rest should be fine .
The total weight should be easy to tow and keep level.
I hope to carry my 400# bike on the nose receivers.
Which ever hitch assembly you end up with please try to keep it as short as possible and as close to the coach as practical. I don't think you can legally do what you want but that is a personal decision. I would want to see a additional receivers added on both frame rails preferably "not" in line with the original hitch to help triangulate the mount loads. Have ball for trailer also pushed forward as far as possible. Even under bike mount? Craneman is spot on on weight and balance for steer and axle loads. Be safe
Scott
The bike rack would use the top receiver. (Bike 425 LBS), and trailer and ball would be under the bike rack above. Both would be within 18-24" of the rear bumper So it's tight to coach. We have a tag axle so we have weight distribution behind drive axles
The above Harbor Freight dual hitch extender only has a rating to pull 4,000 lbs. Roadmaster makes one with a higher capacity of 10,000 lbs, still 400 lbs tongue capacity..
https://www.harborfreight.com/dual-hitch-extender-69881.html
Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories (https://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/accessories/hitch/dual.php)
I would be concerned, as you say your bike alone is 425 lbs. I'd be more pleased going to a triple mount rv motorcycle hitch.
The roadmaster is high quality.
Again, the hitch bouncing around is your limit.
I would try the bike mounted up, and give it a shove and see how much the rear frame and hitch flex. It will surprise you . Make adjustments/ add triangulation. etc and it will be fine .
For reference; My Kayak rack bounced enough that I strap the nose of the boats to the roof rack .
Before I did a minutes work on this, I'd go and get axle weights for your coach and begin there.
YMMV
jk
The total added rear axle weight will be less than 900# IMHO. No way should that put the axle over any max load tag.
This is the boat. Tongue weight is just 100 lbs. 1958 fiberglass / bamboo floor speedster.
If your original hitch is rated for 300 lbs tongue weight and your putting a extension (multiplier) with a say 100 pound bike mount and a 425 pound bike and another hitch 15 pounds and a boat tongue of 100 pounds your at 640 pounds with the use of a multiplier extension. Your way over what the conservative hitch rating was. You need to add additional receiver points with desirable triangulation. I truly love going outside the box, but your bike and boat dragging behind your coach with the factory hitch torn loose in the middle makes for a great story. Possibly without a happy ending. I personally could bend a crow bar in a sand box. Add the additional mounts, boring but reliable. IMO.
Scott
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Adding support bars from chassis frame to receiver for additional weight bearing ???
A factor installed ( 1986) class II receiver had what tongue weight rating for a tow weight rating of 5000 lbs ??
Less then 1000# without the extension.
On most vehicles the tongue rating is 10% of the towing capacity. I don't know it FT followed that formula
James T. At Foretravel would know. The gcwr vs the gvw would show the hitch capacity as I said then 10% of that
Searching the BeamAlarm site for Foretravel specs.. there is not mention of the Class of the stock installed receiver on the 86 Foretravel Grand Villa 33. Tag.... should we assume Class II or III. ? I can't imagine that these medium duty P 30 chassis would be anything less than II and hopefully III. Is this a question for Foretravel Headquarters.... maybe they have some history on standard equipment
It doesnt matter what the rating is..
Stick a 5 ft pipe into the receiver and stand on the tip. Watch the frame twist and move. Engineer from there.
The C style frames will twist regardless of load. It just matters how much you are comfortable with .
https://www.etrailer.com/question-13015.html
Domino effect. Twisting makes cracks. Cracks make leaks. Leaks make rot. Rot makes unhappy RVer.