Rerouted the fresh water overflow. Bought a return jet and a barbed fitting from a pool supply house. The length wasn't long enough to go through the entire basement floor, pick up another fitting from the box store that threaded in from the bottom, placed screen inside the fitting to keep out the unwanted . Used a barbed connection to tie into the existing overflow hose, couple feet of new hose and done. I did use a strong magnet to make sure I wasn't drilling into framing. I have only over filled the tank one time however I'm sure some was coming out when driving with a full tank, at least now it won't run on the bulkhead.
Good job Bill. It's on my list to do things.
That looks like a much better solution. Thanks for the info. That will be one of my fall projects.
David
Bill,
If you still have the part numbers you used, that will help others.
Thanks.
Nice job, I did mine the same way, also put a ball valve in mine. I keep it about 1/2 closed to help with water loss. On a long run on the twisty 2 lanes I'll bet we loose 5 gallons. Weboondock so every gallon counts. I also added a 3/4" fast fill with a decent water supply the tank will fill pretty quick.
Sorry, I do not, left the receipts in the car, DW tossed them. I stopped in Leslie's pool supply, hanging on the wall they had some fittings, looked them over and bought a couple I thought might work. I was trying to find a threaded fitting that would sandwich the floor, the floor thickness was 2", none of the options at the pool shop were long enough, bought an adapter from lowes for the bottom with male treads. The following links are NOT what I used however are very similar.
Amazon.com : Hayward SP1493 1-1/2-Inch MIP White ABS Quick Disconnect Econo... (https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SP1493-2-Inch-White-Disconnect/dp/B004VTGHNU?th=1)
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SP1023-2-Inch-Fitting-Locknut/dp/B003ZTM0O2
Amazon.com: Lasco 436-015 1.5" Slip x MPT Pool & Spa Adapter : Patio, Lawn &... (https://www.amazon.com/Lasco-436-015-Slip-Pool-Adapter/dp/B0082MXED8/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=pvc+adapter+1+1%2F2&qid=1590058607&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-5)
Would something like this work in the same location?
Amazon.com : attwood Scupper 1-1/2 Thru Transom : Boating Equipment : Sports... (https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-38811-Scupper-Thru-Transom/dp/B0000AZ5VV)
This project is on the list.
John,
That looks like the through-hull fitting I used when I modified my overflow drain. I added a stainless steel sink drain screen to the bottom to keep out the critters.
Richard
I'm not familiar with that type fitting and how they work on a boat, not sure the water from the overflow would flow threw the rubber flapper, in addition can the "through the hull portion be shortened to 2"? As far as location I suggest using a magnet to locate framing before drilling any holes.
Yes, that thru hull can accommodate the thickness of the Foretravel basement floor. The nut can be tightened to any "hull" (or basement in this case) thickness.
I don't have experience with the thru hull with rubber flap, but according to the write-up, it allows water out, but not in. Worse case cut it out and but a screen over it.
BTW, looks like a very good solution.
Looks like a great Idea. I've never looked at the tanks.
Is there an overflow fitting near the top from the factory?
Paul
Paul,
On my '99 the factory overflow is on the street side of the fresh water tank. It is behind a plywood baffle above the water pump and accumulator tank. On mine there was a green corrugated hose (about 1.5 inch diameter) that ran from a fitting near the top of the fresh water tank and disappeared aft above the black and grey waste tanks. Somewhere back there it attached to a fitting that dumped the water out ahead of the rear wheels. I simply removed the factory hose from the fresh water tank fitting and added my own food grade 1.5 inch hose. I runs it essentially straight down to the basement floor.
This is the water pump locker on the '99 with the new overflow hose visible on the left.
That food grade hose is a much better choice than the green factory corrugated hose. Getting a watertight seal with the factory corrugated hose and a hose clamp seems it could pose an issue. Mine is hidden behind the hot water tank and out of reach. I worry about that leaking more than the over-flow on the rear bulkhead.
I've been following this thread getting ready to change my overflow as I've seen in some of the pictures. I have a couple of questions:
Could just a regular bulkhead type fitting work going through the floor ?
Amazon.com: Lifegard Aquatics 3/4-Inch Double Threaded Bulkhead: Pet Supplies (https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Double-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B001EUG9PU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=20R6XXYLNNGBO&dchild=1&keywords=3%2F4+bulkhead+fitting&qid=1590201874&sprefix=3%2F4%22+bulkhead+fi%2Caps%2C393&sr=8-3)
Could the overflow hose be reduced down to a 3/4" hose for the overflow?
As it's only air coming out until it overflows, would a 3/4" hose allow air to escape fast enough ?
Curious to know
The floor is at least 1.5" thick. 3/4" is probably the minimum size. If it is going to overflow you want it to be easy. If you run the overflow hose/pipe through the floor be sure there is something to keep everything (mice, bugs, etc) out.
I added to mine with the same hose the factory used. No fungus amongus yet no leaks been 6 years. As Doug said it can be a booger to get to. I just added on to the end of the hose at the bulkhead.
Nice clean job, Bill. 8)
I did a slopper stopper mod to ours last year, took some pics while re-doing the butchered fresh water pump plumbing this year. We do mostly dry camping and arriving on-site with only 2/3 tank of fresh water wasn't going to cut it. What I did was cut the factory corrugated vent line, run some 1" PVC pipe and elbows inboard, above the fresh tank, and a 180 deg U-turn back outboard. One end of the pipe is connected to the tank line, the other to the line exiting the bulkhead. Where the pipe goes over the top corner of the tank is a piece of EDPM foam tape to keep the pipe off of the tank. The inboard end is within 1/2" of the lines running through the central chase, and supported by a piece of foam pipe insulation that rests on top of the tank. The outboard end is attached to the bay ceiling with a pipe strap. The goal is that, during a left hand turn, water traveling inboard in the pipe counters the pressure of the water in the tank created by the centrifugal force of the turn. It works as intended.
The test was to fill the tank to overflowing, then go on a trip. 200 miles into the trip was our fuel and lunch stop. I lucked-out and caught the green light at the end of the exit ramp, told the boss to hang on, and stuffed the ol' girl into the left-hand turn as hard as I cared to. 2 min later we're parked in the fuel lane, I get out and check the bulkhead. It's bone dry. Popped the wet bay door and the tank is still plum full, right at the top of the vent line, as it was when we started. After about 4000 miles, I have yet to see any loss of water.
For those that don't want their tank vent exiting through the bulkhead, maybe a hybrid of similar to what Bill has done, combined with similar to what I've done, would be a good solution, depending upon your coaches tank configuration.
Greg
Navybean may have found the perfect part for going though the floor, if I were doing the job again I would have used something similar to what he suggested. Here is another link to a similar/same product.
National Supply Direct - Your Marine and HomeGoods Superstore Attwood Thru... (https://nationalsupplydirect.com/attwood-thru-hull-scupper-for-hose-44-white-1-1-2.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwk6P2BRAIEiwAfVJ0rBqWZ74sJPUa5Qx4Oud2pffZH5SDfxO_zSsHDAJuoLT_oUwjgaqKthoCQZUQAvD_BwE)
Greg, I dry camp half the year and need a FULL tank when I fill to be efficient out there. I love the simplicity and engineering of your slopper stopper pvc vent mod so much, I took your idea and ran with it. I bought the Atwood 1 1/2" scupper that Navybean linked to and replaced the rubber with a stainless sink strainer.
I'm a former AF aircraft mishap investigator and that's where the next statement comes from. I don't think that the OE vent arrangement is causing all cases of bulkhead corrosion. The water vents to a location routinely subject to water and lots of it.
It think a lot of cases of bulkhead rot might instead be caused by deteriorated vent hose leading to water leaking INSIDE the wet bay each time the tank is filled and driven. Here's what I found and why I came to that conclusion.
When pulling the original 1 3/8" white/green spa hose off the tank and vent fittings, I discovered some areas of black mold on the hose near the vent fitting end. Further inspection by bending the tubing showed two perforations in the mold area. Pictures attached.
These perforations might very well have existed since install at FT based on the mold and stains around the perforations, but were there for a while at any rate. Time has not been kind to this tubing, and it was easy to tear other sections with minimal bending. I replaced it all with new 1 1/4" spa tube from Ace HW.
Bottom line, for those who've re-routed the vent and also for those intent on keeping the factory set-up, REPLACE that hose!!! My $.02. Woody.
Good one
I checked this one off this weekend too. I was pleased to find wood in the bulkhead below the water pump. I sealed it off with a deep penetrating epoxy sealer made for marine use and that'll help ensure moisture stays out of the bulkhead even if the silicone seals fail.
I was able to source all the parts at the local hardware store.
Nice Elliott!
Does anyone know the actual size of the green/white overflow hose on the foretravel. I though it was 1 1/2 inch but ordered some and it evidently is larger than that