My Bay door which gives me access to the engine batteries won't open. It locks and unlocks and the handle latch comes up all the way but somehow it is stuck.
Is it possible that just the gasket is stuck to the door? Did you try pulling on the bottom of the door with one hand while pulling on the latch
handle with the other? Also, did you look underneath to see if you have access to the latching mechanisms?
Think the lock should be accessible if you put your hand up behind the panel or lie on the ground and look up behind the door, the compartment on our coach does not have a floor, you should be able to manually release the latches without using the handle
Push in the door while pulling on the release handle. Worked for me when my door stuck.
It is likely caused by a worn latch linkage. I am attaching a photo of my repair which is an adaptation of one posted by another member. The picture was taken before the cotter pin was installed. A forum search should find other solutions.
Here is a link to the worn latch solution posted by Mr Ed. It is the one I adapted to fit my lesser mechanical skills.
Unicoach narrow bay door latch fix (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37368.msg358696#msg358696)
Thanks for the info. I will check that out. I wanted to check the voltage on the batteries before I took it out for short trip. So when I got back home I tried again and it opened. Not sure why.
I got in that bind with my wet bay door..When I closed it I always do the leg push at both ends of the door. I had the power cord trapped and it put pressure pushing out on the latches. Did what Bob said and pushed in on each end while lifting the handle and it released thankfully without breaking the handle.. You probably have something else going on.. most if not all of my bay doors have no bottom access and it can cause a bit of anxiety.
I did something similar to MisterEd. The OEM setup has a very short throw when you lift the handle.. The mod lengthens the throw and operates the lock better.
Rich
That narrow top-hinged door has really been a pain in the rear (of the coach ;^) for me!
Too many times I noticed, in the mirror, or was alerted by other motorists, that my battery compartment door was practically in the next lane ::)
I tried over and over to adjust the mechanism. When I was at Bernd's, a few years ago, one of his men worked on it. A few months ago, I attached stainless steel swing arm latches to both sides.
Amazon.com: JQK Flip Latch, (Extra Thick 3mm) Stainless Steel Heavy Duty... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PDJC4FK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
These latches are much like toilet stall latches. No more Tesla X wannabe door at all during the trip home from Florida ;)
After reading closer all together different door situation than my closed in bay door.
Last night I too went to open battery bay door on my 99 U320 and the actual plastic handle piece just picks up very easily without releasing lock mechanism,. Obviously, she self destructed internally. Is there a place to purchase replacement latches or the original plastic handles? Realistically, all my bay door cheap plastic handles are probably close to failing after all the weathering and use. Any replacement suggestions?
On mine, following the accumulator fuel leak, I noticed quite a bit of oily gunk built up in the latch mechanism. Mine exhibits the same issue (sticking). If I pull up the handle and simultaneously pull on the bottom of the door I can get it open. Plan is to degrease the mechanism and lube it up with something that is dry. This mechanism is open to the elements and I thought about trying to find or fabricate a cover.
John
My coach of the same year and model has metal latches. FT probably sells them.
Aren't they like this? They come in Left and Right and as Chuck said they're pot metal.
TriMark Locks RV Motorhome RH Driver Storage Handle 11812-37 Series 30-0450... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/164973964215)
There's one on Amazon for $148.00.
The Narrow Bay Door Latch Fix I posted Unicoach narrow bay door latch fix (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=37368.msg358696#msg358696) will be available for sale, in kit form, shortly. A forum member asked me to make a few and I decided to make some extra kits to help keep the unit cost lower. Once I contact the moderators, and get the lowdown on the proper way to sell the kits on the forum, I'll make them available.
Greg
There's a small metal link, attached with a pin to the inboard side of the operator handle, that fits in a notch on the lever. (See first Pic) It may have broke or, possibly, fell out of the notch. If the lever is directly rotated, as opposed to making it move with the handle, the small metal link WILL fall out of the notch, making it impossible to open the door from the outside handle. Don't ask me how I know this :-[ The fix is to rotate the inside lever and put the metal link back in the notch. Of course, one must have access to the inside of the door to do this. Others on the forum have posted about getting a "stuck" bay door open, from the bottom, by removing the weather seal and devising a way to operate the latch with a piece of wire, etc. It would probably be helpful to look at the inside of another door, with the same latch geometry, to get a better idea of the location of the parts and what you'll be "hunting for" from the outside. You should be able to access the inside of the battery door, from underneath, without having to take anything apart. I had to do this the day after we bought out coach; glad it wasn't the LF bay door.
BTW, on our coach, the bay door operator handles are metal; appear to be die cast aluminum. When we bought our coach, most all of them were bent out from abuse. (Trying to open a locked door, maladjusted/un-lubricated latches, or plain ol' ham fisted buffoonery?) I made a tool set to straighten them (See Second Pic), without having to remove the operator assembly from the door. It worked well for me, but I doubt the handle can be straightened more than once or twice before it breaks from fatigue. To use the tool set, open the operator handle and place the tools as far apart as possible,
inside the hinge plates of the handle, as shown in the Third Pic. If the lockset is on the right, as in the Pic, use the right tool to hold the handle about 2/3 open and use the left tool to straighten the handle. Be as gentle as possible while still achieving the desired results. Motion of the tools will be reversed for a left lockset. The tool set can be considered a forum community tool. I'll send it to anyone who needs it, and leave it in your charge.
Greg
EDIT: The link is not plastic, it's metal. Changed text to reflect that. Added text to reference pics, and use of tool set.