1. I am looking at beefing up the hitch on our 1999 U320 what all do I need to disconnect besides the chassis
batteries and the house batteries.
2. I have 10 K hitch but may be pulling
more, or really close to that and would rather have it a bit over kill than
repeat what Brad had when it looked like his towed was trying to pass him!
Also, any engineering input on where to put bracing without just adding 500
lbs of steel
thanks for input
Chris
Welding Checklist (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=technical:chassis:welding)
The Hitch Center in Morgan Hill, CA. or Gilroy that beefed up many rv hitch systems I sold, towing horse trailers, would weld steel plate below the entire hitch assembly, to raise the carrying capacity. I would only use a professional hitch center that fabricate and install hitches as their business, so as not to end up with a weaker, instead of stronger towing solution.
This thread may lead you to research further.
https://app.aws.org/forum/topic_show.pl?tid=11790
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Chris, we had ours beefed up in Orlando, FL at a huge fab shop that did work on hitches, etc., when we were pulling our 24 foot tri axle trailer. This was on our '98 U320 we owned. They added gussets to cross members, etc., but they told me they had never seen a setup like on a Foretravel. They didn't think I would need anything, but went ahead and did what I asked. We were fully loaded with a car, etc. inside that trailer and never had an issue. So, are you getting ready for that Quad?????
You might consider the rear bulkhead being the weak link when towing heavy loads with your Foretravel.
I don't think there is any pressure on the bulkhead towing, all the pulling force is in the rear behind the bulkhead. Could be wrong but just my view of it.
Yes Joe we made the jump Can Am trail 1000DPS I found it Elka liked it so it is in our shad now!!!
Thanks Guys for input on hitch and welding much appreciated
Chris
Chris, heading for Idaho? The dunes are fun. We did pretty well in our stock 1998 Wrangler, 6 cyl. Lowered the tire pressure, figured out which gears kept the RPMs high enough to not get bogged down and had at it. I think I did better than Brad expected. I have been driving Jeeps in the mud, snow and sand since the late 1960s.
Great place to play.
Do remember that the manufacturers data plate governs legal towing. GCWR.
IF you had an incident and anyone checked it could be ugly.
How is it a truck that has any given max tow weight capacity posted able to tow more by getting a temporary permit from the federal govt? How does that change the plate/placard or the springs/ suspension of the said vehicle?
I have seen Dodge Dually trucks towing 30k plus .. with a permit.
Hate to say it but it comes down to money again. You cant do that but if you pay a fine/permit .. well maybe you can.
My thought was if an incident occurred and a insurance investigator looked at the weights that the owner would be liable for the damages including his own coach,
In Kalifornia coaches of 40' or less run passenger car plates. Not commercial.
I would think an overweight permit would not be available for a non commercial plated coach.
If you commercial plated it you might need a commercial license. And commercial insurance.
Chuck,
That is my conclusion as well after thinking obsessively about the bulkhead joint issue for the first couple of years of coach ownership where I spent most of my time underneath welding in new steel and rebuilding the basement floor structure from below. :o The way I see it, when accelerating the drive wheels are putting the joint under compression through the trailing arms. When using the service brakes, as long as the front and back brakes are applying relatively equal braking force, the bulkhead joint is static (at least on relatively smooth roads). However, when using the retarder without using the service brakes, the drive axle puts the bulkhead joint under tension. If the joint is compromised by broken bolts and or rust jacking, the weakened joint will tend to separate from the use of the retarder as the drive axle tugs on the joint. While towing, the mass of the trailer or towed vehicle will have little to no effect on the bulkhead joint unless the trailer brakes or supplemental braking system (i.e.; Air Force One etc.) are braking the towed mass harder than the coach brakes. The drive axle brakes will however apply more force to the drive axle when using the retarder in combination with the service brakes, depending on the joy stick position (if so equipped). In my view, that is likely not much of a concern as long as the bulkhead joint is not compromised.
Don
If anyone has a scale profile of the frame rails, with tube sizes, I can look at the vectors.
My concept of the situation is that the rails are similar to twin full length ladder bars. They will twist at the joints as applied torque is increased.
Chris. Yes disconnect batteries and I ground out the positive coach cables to ground to completely protect from voltage spikes. Not the Battery. Your 10k hitch was rated with a hitch entering and going completely thru the receiver on the coach. There is about six inches of the receiver that extend from the horizontal box. It is welded all the way around the receiver. Produces a stress point. There is no triangulation. There is a plate that the safety chains attach to. On the top side of the receiver cut a 3/8 gusset to go from about the hitch pin and sweep forward on both side of the receiver to the horizontal box. The safety chain bracket will need to be clearance to allow welding to the box directly, not onto/over the plate. Reweld safety chain plate to gusset and box at same time. This can only extend out on the box about five inches so it can clear the rear door when closed. This will distribute horizontal loads to the large horizontal box preventing the weld that goes around the receiver from failing do to a life time of fatigue from horizontal loads. Toads produce little up or down loads. Trailers do have and need tongue weight. Your hitch is rated at 1000 lbs tongue weight. Toads during turns get the front tires dragged sideways producing these excessive side loads. Heavy toads like one ton trucks loaded to capacity are the worst. Add four wheel drive and a diesel.
1. Make sure your tow hitch goes into the receiver deep enough to engage the horizontal box structure
2. Gusset top of receiver to hitch pin to horizontal box.
3. NEVER use a extension unless you reduce loads.
4. Reduce loads as much as possible.
5. Never tow overweight. Only the manufacturer can increase hitch capacity. Includes axles, tire, brakes, substantiating engineering.
6. Regular detailed inspection on tow hitch installation, receiver condition, tow bar, toad tow mount condition when your at the limit.
A 10k trailer produces much lower stress on the towing platform. No comparison.
Disclaimer; Any Modifications should be reviewed and approved by the manufacture, they won't. You change it, you own it.
IMO.
Scott
@Chris m lang
Did you end up beefing up your receiver and have pics to share?
@Jack Lewis - I wasn't able to find Hitch Center in Morgan Hill, CA. or Gilroy on Google. Have they changed names or gone under?
Has anyone successfully replaced the entire hitch assembly with an off the shelf class V hitch rated for higher weight?
(yes, I understand that it won't change the coach's rated tow capacity)
Jammoto.... I did exactly that. I bought a 2.5 receiver. Removed the old setup, which had been gusseted and a PITA to remove. I then welded the new receiver (after cutting a few inches of each end and filling in the open end) all the way across the back frame. Here's a pic, not the best. If ya need something better I can send it.
I sort of like this idea but I'm not sure this would do well if something were to go wrong in any given incident. the liawers and insurance co's will have a field day in court. I would rather leave the liability on the original manufacture. Jim.
@James Bock this looks like a beefy setup. It isn't super urgent, but would be great if you can share photos of the new receiver empty since it is hidden behind the shocker hitch in that pic. Particularly curious about the cut/filled areas and how to get strong/gusseted welds through the 3/8" frame tube.