It looks like my struts have ridden their last rodeo. They seem to made by Atwood SpringLift out of Texas. I can't quite make out the phone number on the strut, but will try again tomorrow. I Googled Atwood, with the model SL-34-100, and with 12" center to center, but am not having a great deal of luck.
My question is.....Does ANYONE know how many pounds these struts require. I have a favorite supplier I had posted in a previous conversation, and would like to order a few others, at the same time. I will also pursue Atwood and will call FT and see if they know.
Thanks
Not a 100% sure, but I think the 100 represents the poundage.
Proper application of a stick and bathroom scale, followed up by right triangle vector figuring will tell you what you need to know.
FOT has all the struts in stock
It's good to support them so they will continue to support our old coaches
Their parts dept is still open, limited hours but still shipping to keep us going.
The shipping cost will floor you.
$17 bucks free shipping ebay.
Pair 20 Inches 40 Pound Gas Spring Rod Struts Lift Props RV Tool Box Top Lid... (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-20-Inches-40-Pound-Gas-Spring-Rod-Struts-Lift-Props-RV-Tool-Box-Top-Lid/352408701050)
see ya
ken
But Irish does have a good point about supporting FOT for as long as they support us.
I replaced mine and the originals were 120 pound struts. The new ones are just fine. $25 for two.
Amazon.com: Suspa C16-08055 Force 120 lbs Gas Springs Set of 2: Automotive (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B007MUY656/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
There are for the bus style bay doors, not sure what the hinged doors use
As far as shipping from FOT ... if you know someone in NAC who will go pick them up for you and send the USPS it can be a lot cheaper. These longer struts may not be so cheap but UPS from FOT has always been dear. They need to be a good friend.
If you are a Motorcade member maybe you can get them from the MC Club, check with Mark Crick. markcrick78@gmail.com Proceeds from buying from the MC Club help the club.
There are for the bus style bay doors, not sure what the hinged doors use.
Go for it if your pocketbook allows. It cost me $17.00 shipping for two genset exhaust gaskets that I asked to have thrown in an envelope and sent USPS. I only bought two in case one got damaged.
Holy crap! My big bay doors had 100 pound struts that I downsized to 80 pound to take some of the pressure off the hinges. The small doors on my coach are 40 pound struts. How big are the LP fuel doors on unicoaches??
see ya
ken
I think the parallel doors geometry requires more lift.
Today I learned... The fuel door is a bus style door? I thought they were all hinged.
see ya
ken
I replaced every strut on mine, Brad at FT fixed me up with the proper ones. The numbers don't always mean what you think. He has a chart on the exact ones for which doors
I removed one end of a 100# strut to measure the socket size. When I tried to replace it, I need to compress it about an inch,or so. Can't compress it. Must be the other strut, failing.
Roger installed 120# struts.
Any tricks to compress the 100 pounder?
Thanks
I made a carrier for the strut that holds it in a compressed length just enough to get it on the mounting pins. A really classy stick. I used a bar clamp to compress the strut and slip it into the holder. Then just align it to the pins and pop it on. After a couple tries you figure it out.
I am not familiar with this item. Do you know HF item number for it?
I believe he's talking about tie down straps with a ratchet tightener.
My kinda GUY Roger that looks like some of my contraptions -- I'll be making me one of these!!
Chris
For the hinged bay doors, I've found that using 10lbs of strut for every foot, in length, of the door works well. ...20lbs struts on the short doors, 40lbs on the 4', etc.
Bus style door
100 lbs is correct
FOT doesn't have in stock, but their price was ok
Found some on eBay or Hatchlift.com
Oops...not 10
Well, I used Roger's "classy stick" idea to compress the 100# gas struts. I needed about 1 1/2" to install them. It took a few attempts, but I modified my pipe clamp, and they are both, now installed.
When I checked the door operation, I noticed the bottom of the door wasn't locking. On closer inspection, both nylon catches are broken.
Does anyone know what they are called and where I should purchase them?
Thanks, and especially to Roger.
Call FT Parts on Monday.
Right
What am I asking for?
RV Compartment Door Latch
Search results for: '1192' (https://www.htfhardware.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=1192&searchradio=General%3A)
I used these, they are slightly different then the OEM latches but the same source. As most have done, bit of modification helps.
You have to disconnect the cable and then reconnect it with a crimp on cable ferrule.
Amazon.com: TOUHIA 100 Pcs 1/16" Aluminum Crimping Loop Sleeve Double Barrel... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07P6F9911/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Bay door latches
I am enclosing a few pictures to wrap this up. One shows the rig I used to compress the 100# gas struts about 1 1/2" in order to install them. It took a few attempts, but they are in.
The other photos show modification necessary to install new latches. I bought mine on ebay. Bought the wire rope and ferrules at Lowes. Originals used center holes. New ones came riveted in center holes. I drilled them out, and used 3/16" rivets in corners. I pounded the rivets flat and filed as needed. I made up a spare set "just in case". Wasn't too difficult. Done!!
Couldn't have done it without Roger's input. Thanks!!
Brad at FT will know