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I have the picture on my desktop but can't post it?
Mac or PC? For a Mac, Command-Shift-4, place marker in corner of photo, click and drag to the far corner and then go to preview below this box and hit "selecting them" in green and then navigate to the screen shot you just made.
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Piece
fttransferswitch (samsonfuzzy@yahoo.com)
If your talking about the red thing. It looks to be your isolator.
Battery Isolator. Center terminal from alternator B+ terminal.
Outer terminals to each of the two battery banks.
That was OE wiring. No idea how it is wired now.
Dan,
The battery isolator is the main item with the cooling fins. Also in that mess are two relays and a couple of fuses. One of the relays controls the clutch for the dash air conditioner compressor and the other relay controls the electric cooling fans for the dash air conditioner condenser. The fuses are probably for those two circuits but I am not at my coach at the moment so I cannot check them for sure.
The attached image is from a previous post of mine from when I found a loose wire connection which caused my dash air conditioner to operate intermittently.
Richard
I figured it was battery stuff. It all works even though it's got some corrosion. I'll check for loose connections. I assume the red isolator should be left alone if working? Ha Ha. Just trying to rebuild anything before failure and I like to clean stuff up. I'll take a harder look at this (stuff) later this month.
Thanks
If your gonna take wires off and clean you might as well replace all the parts on that board, did that to mine when I replaced alternator, check the forum for the parts, you can probably get all new parts for under $300,will try and post a picture.
Good idea John. I'll wait for your parts list
And, many of us have moved those electric components to a MUCH dryer, safer location (in the "electric area" at the foot of the bed.
Dan, when you go back together with anything electrical, especially exposed to the elements, be sure to apply die electric grease. It helps slow down future corrosion. Also helps hold small flat washers in place in tight areas when you've run out of fingers. Don't ask me how I know. :))
Larry
Here's my notes on parts. If you move to under the bed, here's what you have to look forward to! :D
jor
FOR 270, MARCH, 2017
Solenoids: ColeHersee 24213 @ $40-$65 online
Relays: Standard RY15 @ $11 auto parts store
Circuit Breakers: Cole-Hersee 30055-20-BS or Bussman CBC15B (I need one 15a and one 20a)
FOR 300, ISOLATOR BOARD COMPONENTS (May 23, 2014)
Solenoid: Cole Hersee 24213 - $93 for two (Amazon) - red arrow
Circuit Breaker: Bussman CBC15B (15 amp) - About $5 each (Amazon (Grainger) - green arrow
Relay: Standard RY 115 - $11 (Merle's parts store) - blue arrow
Foretravel moved the location of the isolator board to the under the bed location, at least by the 99' model year and possibly earlier.
Don
If you move them, it's probably a good idea to mount on a Hardie Backerboard rather than plywood in case of component overheating.
P
As I recall, mine were mounted on metal. Cleaned, painted and reused.
Yes, mine are on a metal area so I'll leave them and just replace where they are. Been there since new in 96.
Thanks so much, you all are awesome!!!!!
If you are going to the trouble to redo it, very little more work to move it. Measure the wires, but I know on our 1993 all wires were long enough to move from the OE position to the electrical compartment at the foot of the bed.
I wonder why Foretravel mounted the isolator outside? Anyone ask? JamesT?
Heat gain comes to mind. A loose connection has caused heating enough in some posts here to physically damage the isolators.
I would think twice about relocating a electrically high load device inside the coach.
If you are moving it why not change to a much safer battery combiner?
Just asking for a friend.
It has cooling fins for a reason I assume. Mounted outside?
ML-ACR Automatic Charging Relay - 12V DC 500A - Blue Sea Systems (https://www.bluesea.com/products/7620/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_DC_500A)
Bob, What's a battery combiner??
And, a manual marine simple ON-OFF switch is another KISS theory solution-- one I prefer.
Cable from alternator B+ and cable from chassis battery to one lug. House battery cable to the other lug.
With switch OFF, alternator charges chassis battery only.
With switch ON and engine running, both banks charged.
With switch ON and 120 VAC from shore power or generator, converter or inverter/charger charges BOTH battery banks.
With switch ON, you have a very heavy duty battery boost/combiner.
Easy to locate at the foot of the bed where it is accessible, but not in the way.
PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Battery Switches - Heavy Duty Battery Disconnect... (http://www.perko.com/catalog/battery_switches/99/heavy_duty_battery_disconnect_switch_with_alternator_field_disconnect/)
Good post. Expect bad planning like quite a few other things.
Yes, combiner much better as isolaters are obsolete now. Boost solenoid could be a latching type. No current draw in either position for the solenoid itself. High capacity battery A/B/Both/Off does away with everything else.
Brett's ON-OFF switch is the best. Nothing to fail and the switches are inexpensive. Just don't turn switch to "off" with the engine running.
Pierce
Not even turning it off will do any harm-- it is idiot proof.
With switch off, the alternator B+ is still hard wired to the chassis battery.
Unfortunately with a manual switch "on" a discharge condition could kill both battery banks.
The combiner auto disconnects if either bank is being discharged. Cannot run down and damage both banks.
My limited solar leaves my batteries slightly below the correct float voltage in winter.
Drove the coach yesterday from Orange County to near downtown LA at 3pm(yes I know. How stupid) to get blue beacon to wash it(mask time) and the release the wax from the tires as recommended by Michelin monthly and the combiner put the banks together and I wax charging at 13.96 volts for an hour or so.
After the wash on the return trip the plug in gauges in the dash said 13.87 or so on both banks.
The Javelina system showed 13.7 to 13.8.
My rudimentary system on the roof runs down the refer vent to an old controller then to the refers 12 volt hookup behind the access door. Small wiring drops the voltage to roughly 13.6 at the batteries(combiner at this time) so it's sort of self limiting
Am hoping to install my pt-100 solar controller and AGS-N gen start as soon as I can talk my guru buddy into it.
He now runs Girards repair shop at their San Clemente location instead of fixing rv's.
Same with a 97. Plenty of slack.
jor
Brad at FT is putting together a price to replace all. Said he just did it for someone else that bought a bunch of stuff restoring theirs