My 12 volt panel (the one in the middle compartment behind the fiberglass cover) had a little bit of surface rust on the backing plate. I remember another rig also had some. God knows how anything in that closed area can get rusty but... Anyhow, I finally got around to cleaning it up. I blasted and painted it and replaced all the Robertsons with stainless. I was going to replace all the resettables but those little guys are pricey!
On this rig (97 270) this panel is shown on drawing 2126. Here is the layout for those resettable breakers ffr. (also has one for the ATEC and a relay for the water pump).
jor
Is anything labled in there to tell what's what..I've not had my cover off of this 270.
Looks nice. I'll bet it was humidity or salt spray that got to it
No labeling. Just need to look at your B2126 drawing. It is labeled Automotive Wiring Dia. Yours should be the same as mine as the drawing indicates years 92-97 for 270, 280, 295, 300 and 320. Might be the same for later years. The little pdf I posted comes from that drawing.
jor
B2126 Automotive Wiring Diagram. I am not near my rv or I would look, is there a label on the inside of the fiberglass cover?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/eko4ei7nm1vz34b/5040%20a.pdf?dl=0
I've never seen one. I was thinking maybe I'd attach one for easy reference.
jor
There isn't a label inside my cover.
There are a few extra wires inside mine. I think they are from my Heliotrope solar charge controller.
Also none under ours. Great to see that it's good for all the models listed until 1996. The 1992 version is the one Bill Chaplin had blown up into chart sized and showed up at our house bearing the gift. Yours fills almost the entire big screen.
Pierce
Charlie brings up a good point. These coaches have, in many cases, been cared for by multiple owners. I am the 5th owner of our coach. Along the way, changes get made to all the systems, including electrical. The factory wiring diagram is certainly a valuable reference, but often does not tell the whole story. The 12V panel on our coach was modified when our PV system was installed along with the inverter upgrade. In the photo below, you can see that the OEM 175A inverter fuse is no longer being used. Still, I
can use the factory diagram to identify the remaining OEM components on the panel, so I do appreciate having it.
In a perfect world, owners would keep a wiring diagram detailing each modification, and pass it on to the next owner. I think I will take jor's idea and make up a
corrected diagram to attach under my fiberglass cover. At least that will be one less mystery for the next owner to figure out. (Let's not talk about the myriad changes I have made under the dashboard cover and in the electrical compartment at the base of our bed).
Chuck,
Looks like that slow burn inverter fuse has been bypassed (both cables to the same lug)?
Yes, correct. That was my point. When they installed our new inverter they put the new 400A inverter fuse in a different location. The OEM fuse is bypassed and no longer used. This could be very confusing to a new owner looking at our 12V panel.
Won't hurt anyone to bookmark this post. May come in handy who knows where.
And mark the change on your PDF.
P
To protect the DC wiring, your installer did the right thing mounting the new fuse close to the batteries. The following or similar wording, I've seen in several install manuals.
From Xantrex:
" Install a DC fuse and disconnect switch or a DC circuit breaker between the inverter/charger and the battery. It must be installed in the positive side of the DC circuit, as close as possible to the battery."
From Magnum:
"The DC overcurrent device (i.e., circuit breaker or fuse) must be placed in the positive (red) DC cable line between the inverter's positive DC terminal and the battery's positive terminal (red)—as close to the battery as possible. For maximum protection, install it within 18 inches (45 cm) of the battery."
AM Solar knows the drill. :thumbsup:
Photo below shows my current (ha, ha) setup, with all the goodies mounted right next to the house batteries.