I have started the process of checking my grounds and positive leads on the chassis circuit. That might be the source of my Isolator issues.
So, My question is, I traced quite a number of the positive leads to a common connection point.
Thanks in advance.
Silly me. Found it. Insulated battery junction. Are these a fail point at all or are they pretty stone reliable. Thinking that as I'm taking all the cables & wire off. May as well replace it.
I just ordered a new isolator ,2 solenoids and 3 breakers on mine from FT. I'm going to replace all of it before it fails as it is original 1996 and still working. I'll clean everything when I put it back together. Just did it with the engine battery cables and it starts in one spin.
Hey Jack. I figured out what it was called. Insulated battery junction. I'll do a continuity test from the post to the chassis. That should tell me if I'm getting some grounding issues.
If the wires are out in the elements heat shrink terminals are a good idea.
Too much hassle to separately charge chassis batteries in my experience.
Bob, this Junction has nothing to do with charging. It's simply the junction where about 5-6 wires pick up power from the positive side of the battery. There is another one above it with a bunch of wires for the negative side.
Sorry jerry my post was to comment on Jerry's post where he said he bought a new isolator.
Some of the power posts FT used have more lugs on them than are generally recommended. Three lugs per post. If you gave more lugs use a two or three post bus bar. Make sure these are high amp posts, 400 amps or more.
BEP Marine Pro Installer 650 Amp, 3-Stud Heavy Duty Bus Bar (https://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/wire/bep-marine-bus-bar-3-stud-650-amp.html)
UPDATE, Both of the posts looked good and a resistance test shows infinite. So no leakage to the chassis on the positive junction.