I had my burner rebuilt by Art, and was trying to get it installed yesterday. The 2 original fuel lines to the burner we're pretty hardened, so I went to get some Maring grade USCG Fuel line. 1/4 Inch ID
The burner uses these different barbed fittings (with the yellow plastic thingy) Insta-grip.
I tried a few times and ruined some lines already trying to get these lines to seat all the way down, NADA.
What's the secret behind getting these to fit correctly. ?
It's the first time in 64 years having a problem putting on an easy fuel line...UGH
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the hoses.
And you really don't need marine grade lines as the rest of your coach lines aren't, at least mine weren't. I think AH used marine grade from their enclosure fittings to the burner in all their units so they're covered on any that are installed in a boat. I know it may be a moot point for you now, just an observation
Heat works good, but on real difficult I heat , stretch with needle nose players pryed open with a common screwdriver and then freeze spray. Holds the larger size for a few second to just slide over. Warms up and shrinks back to original size
Scott
Heat gun is what I used. And it never hurts to use marine grade in these coaches.
Thanks. I was able to locate a proper fuel line that will work with these "Insta-Grip" barbs.
It took 3 additional trips to Auto Parts stores for a hose that was not right. NAPA, AutoZone, and a local shop. (I have lots of scrap hose now) Some were listed as 1/4 in, but we're actually 7mm, others we're too thick and too tight.
Finally, Tractor Supply had a Goodyear (correction ) Continental Made in the USA SAE Rated 50 PSI hose that fit perfectly, I still used hose clamps for additional security.
There is a post where using the clamps on those fittings would cause problems. Maybe someone will chime in with it.
See last paragraph under Assembly and Disassembly Steps
https://www.parker.com/static_content/docs/ParkerStore2014/Global%20Assets/PDFs/Product%20Info/4281_B1_Push-Lok.pdf
I don't think I used clamps
Doesn't feel right not using a clamp. I don't believe there is much pressure (if any on some) on these lines.
The push in fittings have ridges that the clamp will cut into. Clamp type fittings only have the barb at the end of the fitting and it is smooth where the clamp squeezes.
Thanks for the heads up. The original hoses had a different clamp on them. I just barely snugged the new screw type down as I was a bit worried because I did not find the exact fuel lines used by Aquahot which had a really thick wall thickness. I'll keep monitoring it for any leaks down the road
A little dated, however, it tries to get the idea across to use the proper hose. A good hydraulic hose shop should give you good advise. Whether it is Parker hose, Gates or another hose company, they make specific hose for specific fittings. Hose that goes on a barbed fitting specifically warn against using hose clamps, as the can cut thru the hose and fail. The construction of hose for clamped fittings, and barbed fittings are different. I replaced both gen and engine hoses, and I double checked given information from two local Gates dealers and a a local Parker hydraulic hose shop. The information from all three was accurate, and matched on line mfgs web sites. The price varied a lot. My goal was to only have to do the job once, research was necessary.
Input from many forum members:
Fuel hose letdown (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34960.0)
https://cppdiesel.com/vp-max-parker-superflex-diesel-bio-fuel-hose-1-2/?gclid=CjwKCAjw_qb3BRAVEiwAvwq6VkwKai58sRhNorARHdlowLEXkP7CZ-CAZ-hyIFYk4aqhR1BrsNNBVRoCOMAQAvD_BwE
https://youtu.be/jAg8lBJf1ZE
Thanks, I'm pretty positive I have the correct fuel lines, (took a while), So this makes me wonder why did the original hoses have clamps? These we're surely original fuel lines as they were hard as a rock. I think I'm OK, as I barely put pressure on the hose.