On my 2013 4023 I'm having a slide issue. When I turn on key to retract or extend , every so often when the yellow light stops flashing and I'm ready to retract, I push the rocker switch and the red pump light comes on for a second and then shuts off and I cannot extend nor retract.
After several attempts of resetting and starting coach again, I can get it to work. It seems it works best when I have a full tank of air in my Primary and secondary But I'm not sure if that is the reason it works.
Any thoughts on why the red light comes on then shuts off?
Is there a sequence I should follow, is this a fail safe that the red pump light shuts off and not allow pump to turn on. Once I go through a full shut down and reset the HWH I can eventually get it to work?
Thoughts?
My guess is bad solenoid I had same problem FOT said when one goes bad the other is not far behind.
Thank you. I'll give them a call in the morning.
I sent this yesterday to Pat,
My guess is that the hydraulic pump (and light) comes on and a sensor somewhere shows that it has not released and it shuts the pump off. I just don't know enought about your mechanism to say for sure.
On mine it will occasionally not sense that the pin locks have engaged (a sensor issue) when the room comes in and the pump will not shut off. So I just release the retract button and manually confirm the room is in and the locks have engaged. There is a box in the basement that will tell you what fault it sees (or thinks is sees).
There are a lot of interlocks on your system to protect it. If it is intermittent then visually verify that bladders have retracted before moving the slide. One of your slide control boxes probably has fault lights. Check those. Make sure the coach is level before moving the slide. The bladder should never squeal when the slide is moving.
Call HWH.
Roger
Roger I had the same problem, and I replaced the reed switch in the locking pin block. It is easy to do just take out the two allen bolts holding the block to the side of RV and the reed switch can be pulled out of the hole it sits in. You can then run a magnet against the reed switch and have someone tell you if the light changes in the HWH box. If it doesn't change then you have a bad switch.
Yours may be easier to get at than the front lower pin lock sensor in the 2001 which is between the truss under the slide and the fuel tank. This is common to 99-01 coaches with a LR slide. In my coach it is easy to verify that the pin is locked in place and to override the lockout signal to the transmission. I have a spare sensor but I am just not that eager to do the work to replace it when I kniw the locks work, the slide retracts fully and that it is just a Intermittently sensor error.
The 2002 uses a different slide mechanism and control system. The 2003 and later years use yet another slide mechanism. Pat's 2013 maybe different still, I just don't know. But the concepts of interlocking sensors and control systems are likely similar.
Roger, you might try running a strong magnet around you slidelock block. I had to replace a slidelock because it had a hydraulic leak. The new slidelock that HWH sent me came with a new reed switch. After changing the slidelock out, the HWH system would signal that the new slidelock was not engaging, yet I could see that it was engaged. I tried switching the new reed switch for the old one. HWH still couldn't see it. Ran a strong magnetic extendable retrieval tool along the slidelock block and suddenly it started sending the proper signal to the HWH. Don't know for sure why it started working, and Aubrey from MOT who I was talking with over the phone to figure out the problem didn't know why either. My best guess as to why is maybe the magnet on the slidelock piston lost some of its magnetic strength (after being bounced around in shipping) sort of like when you magnetize a screwdriver and wack it on something to remove that magnetism. Maybe running the magnet around the slidelock block helped restrengthen the field. The only other possibility was that the reed switch was stuck and the strong magnet unstuck it, but that means both the new and old reed switches would have to have been stuck and this seems unlikely. Either way it is an easy and cheap way to possibly fix the problem.
A friends Newell had the same problem and could not get Coach out of storage as body was sitton wheels. He tried everything. Called MOT and they made a service call to Houston, ran a magnet...Good as new. 10 min and he was gone.
Hi guys, thanks for the support and troubleshooting ideas - I managed to get the slides working and pulled into an RV park near Provo Utah. Then today when I wanted to go to another park, I could not get them to retract - so I'm waiting for a call from Coachnet to send a technician out here tomorrow - but I'm going to call Foretravel tech support and perhaps HWH in the morning.
There is something that is not allowing the pump to turn on - I had my DW press the retract switch and put my head in the bay and hear some clicking sound in the air solenoid controls above the bladder air pump. It does sound like something is not allowing the pump to start - perhaps some type of safety switch.
Btw - I guess I'm in an ok spot to have this issue - see photo. Provo river just beyond the duals.
Thank you to Roger and the gang.
Ronnie from Foretravel figured out my issue and a local tech dispatched from CoachNet confirmed the issue. "Low voltage"
Results: My 4 house batteries need to be replaced, they could not produce the voltage necessary to run the HWH hydraulic pump and compressors. So the system sensed low voltage and would not trip the solenoid.
This only happened to me when I was not on 50amp service and solely off my inverter and house batteries. When I'm getting to leave camp......or have been off shore power. This is an all electric coach so they're rough on batteries and my batteries were never changed after I bought the coach.