Coach has been sitting a while [unnecessary comment removed - moderator Michelle]...fired it up for a jaunt to a local COE lake and it did't want to go to proper ride height, panel light says it went to travel mode but the front was high and it listed to starboard.
I leveled it manually to proper height and drove to the lake, only a 40 minute drive. It held ride height ok and leveled itself on the pad ok, but after my stay when time to depart, refused again to attain travel mode properly, this time going to low in rear, high in front, and leaning starboard....all the time telling me it was in travel mode.
The leveling valves haven't been messed with, six pack valves operate ok manually, just don't want to go even close to proper ride height....what's going on here??
Unplugged the wiring from back of the control pad a couple of times to no avail...manually set it up, drove home, and now sitting here scratching my head.
With Coach running and in travel mode I would manually check to see if the right rear ride height valve is working properly.
Ralf,
First off the travel light on your year coach only tells you that you have air pressure up.
Pull the cover off you HWH control box (located in the basement) and see if you have a bad fuse that controls the rear travel solenoids. You will also need to check the fuse that feeds the front travel solenoids. If both are good then look at the coils on the on the travel solenoids located on the 6 packs to see if you have a couple of bad coils. This is what sends air to the ride height valves. As above double check the setting on your ride height valves.
Mike
I have had instances where, after our coach sat for a extended period, it would not go to proper ride height on one corner or another. I found by "exercising" the system, the recalcitrant solenoids would start working properly, and everything went back to normal.
By "exercising" I mean I would use the RAISE button to raise the coach fully up to the stops, then with the DUMP button drop the coach fully down on the stops. Do this 2 or 3 times so all the solenoids have been multi-cycled, then see if system will come back to ride height.
Additional benefits of running through the exercise I describe:
1. Cycles the ride height valves through their full range of motion (beneficial if they are getting sticky).
2. Checks for good communication between the control panel and both 6-packs.
You might give it a try and see what happens.
Last time I took the coach out for a ride I had to manually lower it and then later on the drive I stopped to check and it was low.
So I manually lifted it a bit. I haven't had time to check anything out so I hope you find out what it is. Chuck I will try what you said.
Check the ride heights valve adjustable arm. May have slipped in its setting
Check voltage.. Maybe a reset (batteries) and it will quit thinking on its own?
It seems to me that if you can manually adjust air bags and they hold in that position while your drive, maybe HWH may not know ignition is on.
HWH has great diagnostic documents, that may help figure it out.
Remove / replace cable on back of HWH dash panel.
Good suggestions....I'm thinking it's got to be either a travel coil / solenoid or a leveling valve. Seems with the travel light on, power should be being sent to the travel solenoids, and if they are opening the air should then be controlled by the leveling valves. Won't have a chance to check all this out until next week. Of course I'll check the travel fuse and a possible slipped linkage rod...check the easy stuff first, huh?
Ralph,
Try going into travel mode and use a broomstick like a pool cue to tap the travel solenoid on the low side. See if anything happens.
JD
I would be extremely careful, both Bruce Bean and I cracked windshields over this happening.
Mine bottomed out on ruff road. Instant crack from top to bottom RF windshield at curve." POP" is all I heard
I believe Bruce's happened when it went up lopsided on RF over a bad solenoid.
Just my 2 cents
Chris
I started the rig today and it won't go down on it's own. I have had the bags fully extended for a few weeks and it is still off the blocks.
All the lights were lit up on the panel. I will start to look at it tomorrow.
Key on, parking brake on, HWH system off, check that fuse #11 is good in the control box in basement...it should then energize the travel solenoids and dump the air through the leveling valves
When I was at foreravel of Texas for the ladies drivers class our travel solenoid went out. They had to replace two of them. So it might just be a bad solenoid. But all the other suggestions as far as checking fuses and cycling through the ups and down sounds like a good plan as well.
Try the pool cue tap. If it's stuck it might get you going.
That happened to me a while back. The back would not come up to clear the Travel Mode. I had a stuck Pressure Protection Valve. It should be on the tank in front between the tank and the air line. Sometimes you can break them loose by tapping on it. You can pick up a new one at NAPA pretty cheap.
John M.
I look at it again this afternoon. If I push the dump valve it will go down and if I push the raise button it will go up. but it will not
go down into travel height. I banged on solenoids. In the basement I found a reset able braker but no fuse. The whole coach is
not going up or down in travel mode.
See HWH 600 Series Service Manual. Pg.14, Repair Steps, Part 7 (link below)
https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml19048.pdf
Sometimes this indicates there is a problem with the microprocessor or a failed solder joint in the same area.
Mike
Were is the control box.
Should be mounted on the ceiling of the basement behind the HWH compressor if you don't have a slide. It is a 10" square aluminum box about 3" thick.
Mike
I saw it but didn't know what it was. It's right beside my ABS box.
That is it. There should be 4 Philips head screws that you can take off and the cover will come off to revel the fuses and PC board.
Mike
That is correct. I helped a friend with a similar problem to yours. We had to send the control board in for repairs. The repair was cheap, the problem was getting a return call and if I am not mistaken you have to have a number from them to send it in.
They are very hopeful, just under staffed in my opinion.
Scroll through the Service Manual linked below to find the detailed diagram of control box with fuse ID list.
https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml19048.pdf
Ralph,
If you are getting the green travel light then power is being sent by the computer ( sounds like that's working )to hold all the travel solenoids open so the ride height control valves can set the travel height. The green light only tells you the power is being sent to all travel solenoids . It doesn't tell you if they have opened.
So, from your original post it looks like a right rear travel solenoid or ride height control valve problem.
To eliminate one of them,
block the coach and with a meter confirm 12 volts is going to that solenoid when the green travel light is on. If it is you could swap the rear travel solenoids. If the problem follows the valve you found it. If it doesn't I would start looking at the ride height control valve linkage.
With the coach at travel height on level ground the long arm on the control valve should be parallel to the ground.
Probably easier to check that before swapping valves.
... or you can use a screwdriver and feel the magnetic pull of the solenoid when activated.
I found a 7.5 fuse blown, came in an check the manual that Chuck sent me to make sure it was the right one. Now will go out
and replace it and see what happens.
That would be your travel mode fuse.
Thanks everybody I put the fuse in and it lower itself onto the blocks. Thank you Ralph for opening this post as I got this handled.
Now I can back to wiring up the Jake brake.
Glad you found your problem oldguy, I was betting on the travel fuse.......
I've got a plate full of stuff going on right now and it will be a few more days before I have time to check into the problem I'm having. I'm quite sure I have a travel solenoid with a bad coil....but we'll see.
To close out this thread, I finally had time to tear into my leveling problem in travel mode....found I did have an open coil on the RF travel solenoid. I think I'll carry a couple of spares as the travel coils are energized and quite warm any time the key is on and HWH system is off (think driving time here). After 25 years I'm not too surprised that one "burned out."
Recently had a friend that had a 25 year old FT replace all 12 valves on his HWH all good now.
Yesterday I went to move the coach. First I had to raise it to pull the blocks. Shut the engine down pulled the blocks and restarted the
engine. The travel light didn't come on so I pushed the dump valve and the travel light came on, but it wouldn't go down on it's own.
I didn't have time to check the fuse again so I manually lowered it to do the move. I will check the fuse this morning. Probably wasn't
as simple as a blown fuse, now I will have to find what has blown it.
Travel light only means you have air pressure.
Thanks I watch the travel light today and it came on when there was enough air. Fuse looked good but haven't check it with a test light. I will look into tomorrow, but it think I will be looking for more than just a fuse.
I went and turned the key on to test the fuse with a test light and when I went out side the coach was lowering itself. When I
changed the fuse last week it did the same thing and what I realized was both times the air pressure was down below 50 lbs.
It seems it isn't working when the air pressure is up. Will start working on it soon.