All is working well now but I know someday is coming when the original radiator will leak on this 8.3 Cummins.
Is it a Cummins part or FT part?
How hateful is swapping it out?
What is the life of these if taken care of and the PH monitored?
Can I use stop leak if needed?
Same on the intercooler?
It has 125,000 on it
Thanks
Rads are made for foretravel by Atlas in southern Texas( forget the location right now but think it is Corpus Cristy)
They are roughly 2k but if taken apart any large truck rad place should be able to make the cores and some on forum have done that.
Foretravel wanted over 3k a few years ago. Yes a few have used stopleak with success
JohnH
I figured they are pricey looking at the size of them. Was $3000 installed? Thanks
Don't over think the radiator, most likely any leaks will come from the header gasket bolts, they can be snugged up. I put Bars leak in mine over 8years ago (?we are full time 10-12k miles a year) all is still good. More important is to keep the radiator CLEAN from dust dirt and debris. I carefully wash mine out with a garden hose and spray nozzle regularly, you will be surprised what you get out.
If you want to be proactive, flush the system as posts on the forum show and use the new ELC. I use Final Charge but other good brands are available. No messing with ph or other chemicals and just use a blank water filter.
Just replaced my 6 year old Mobile 1 ELC with Final Charge due to emergency addition of plain water. Also replaced the thermostat as they are a normal ware item as well. Be aware if you choose to do the change it is a PITA to properly dispose of used coolant, at least in Yuma AZ.
Yes. I will use the final charge for sure and change the 180 thermostat. When you wash the radiator with a hose or pressure washer, do you go from the outside or try to spray from the inside out or both?
My mechanic will do it so I doubt if he will want to flush it out with distilled water, I guess just draining most of it and adding new, will be enough
Be careful using a pressure washer you could damage the radiator. Best not to use one.
NO, draining most of it and adding new is a TERRIBLE idea. Not only will you have some residual water in the engine, but GALLONS of old coolant that may be acidic in the 60' or so of hose from engine to water heater and heater core and the coolant in each of them.
And, best to wash the outside from both outside and inside. Use Simple Green EXTREME, as it is aluminum-friendly and will not harm the CAC.
Below is the correct coolant change procedure:
Cooling System 101
I just changed out my coolant and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience.
To my knowledge all RV manufacturers use a "low silicate coolant for diesels" with included or added SCA. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer's instructions (usually every 3 years). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use. When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant is installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to an Extended Life Coolant and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech.
First step is to determine your total cooling system capacity. Your chassis maker or coach maker, not your engine manufacturer is the proper source. Then buy enough coolant (concentrate, not pre-dilute) to make up 50% of that volume. If going back with a coolant that requires additional SCA, purchase that as well. Also purchase 1.5 times system capacity of distilled water for a final flush plus final fill (50%). Also a good idea to change the engine thermostat and thermostat gasket as these are a wearing component and it involves very little more work while you are there. I know Caterpillar recommends thermostat (they call them regulators) every 3 years.
Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain cock. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. Two Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so they don't get dirty work well. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free.
Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the effluent color is clear.
At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to "Last rinse". For older systems or when switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner. Follow the directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8" to ¾" lines) going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until it comes out clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water.
If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s).
Last Rinse is with distilled water. At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water.
Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. So for a cooling system with 20 gallons capacity, add 10 gallons of Coolant CONCENTRATE (plus 1/2 overflow container capacity). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture—it doesn't matter if you only have to add 1 gallon or 10 of distilled water, you KNOW you have the proper 50/50 mixture.
This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator.
Dan , no that is part only.
Plus shipping of course.
JohnH
In New Hampshire it is well nigh impossible to dispose of anti freeze properly other than the yearly collection period.
In south east Georgia you dump it in with the waste oil stream. And yes, I climbed the food chain until I was satisfied that is how we handle spent anti freeze here.
I changed my radiator and CAC last year with shipping from Corpus Christy I think the radiator was 2100 and change and the CAC was 1700 and change. The radiator was 4 weeks lead time but the CAC was 8 weeks lead time. If I was doing it again I would ask the folks at atlas if it would save me any money or shorten the lead time to cut the ends off my CAC and let them use them. They told me the ends were made at Atlas ==as in melting aluminum and molding them-- at least that is what I understood from the person I talked to!
Chris
On my last coach I had my CAC and the hydraulic cool rebuilt. They welded in new cores. Saved a bundle.
These things are great and pricey!!! Oh well,
"My radiator guy in New Hampshire," had a 4-section radiator from a Volvo generator set. the kind of generator you use to power the rock crusher in a quarry. The owner wanted to purchase a new unit as a spare. Price wasn't a concern, but Volvo's lead time certainly was a problem. "My radiator guy in New Hampshire," knew a guy in Portland, Maine that made header tanks, and had a source for radiator cores, and using a sharp pencil came in faster and less expensive than the Volvo quote.
It turns out the leak was caused by a screw in thread that wasn't and the customer ordered the custom built radiator as a spare. Because, you know, the risk of down time.
I had "My radiator guy in New Hampshire," clean and repair the radiator in my Chevy P30 chassis'd Rockwood, and an eBay radiator for my motorcycle. Neither was what I call expensive.
For anyone considering replacing a radiator, I highly recommend going directly to the source, Atlas Radiator in Corpus Cristi. They will want to know your build number in order to make the correct replacement. It cost me about 50% compared to FT's quote.