Ok. When I replaced my two solenoids on the isolator panel 2 weeks ago, I cleaned all cables real good and coated it all in die electric grease, then put it all back together. Had a no start engine today and when wiggling those cables at the solenoid, it started.
Question, does this grease not transfer electricity?
Should I have left everything dry, put it together and then greased everything?
Thanks
I have used die electric grease on all sorts of electrical connections and never had a issue.
Sounds like you just had a loose connection.
The metal to metal connection is what allows the electrons to move.
The dielectric grease reduces corrosion. It is not there as a conductor.
Dielectric grease is a non-conductor.
The best thing I know to put on electrical contacts is CorrosionX. It polar bonds to the bare metal molecules of the contact working around corrosion molecules, lubes the metal and prevents corrosion for some time to come.
The "Some" time is determined by how harse the environment is. Inside an aluminum wing on a plane it lasts for 2 years. In a below ground vaule on 440 vac contactors in downtown Chicago, it lasts 3 months.
If you spray the big contactor every 3 months, you do not have to replace the contactor due to corrosion. CorrosionX has a 36,000 volt dialectric rating so the person spraying the 440 vac contactor can do so with it energized safely.
So in your motorhome, under the bed, you should be good for up to 2 years.
Guys,
I have absolutely nothing against using dielectric grease on electrical contacts-- been doing that for years on our sailboats. Generally filled butt connectors with dielectric grease before making good mechanical connections.
BUT (yes, large BUT) the electrical connections need to be mechanically sound. No grease, even a conductive one takes the place of a good mechanical connection.
And dielectric grease DOES keep out moisture and reduces corrosion.
1. Clean the connection components with DeoxIT
2. Put them together dry
3. Spray with CorrosionX
4. ^.^d
Yep. Took everything back apart, cleaned, put back together dry and sprayed. Works now! I'll get the Deoxit and corrosion x . Learning the hard way. Wouldn't start on Luv's scales when I was weighing it! Had the scales all to myself for 2 hours! ha ha
Thanks much
This electrically conductive anti-corrosion grease works very well on terminal connections.
NO-OX-ID "A Special" Conductive Terminal Grease (https://baymarinesupply.com/no-ox-id-a-special.html)
But, with a conductive grease, you have to be VERY CAREFUL as you can easily cause shorts across nearby terminals with the grease being the conductor.
OK for isolated areas like battery terminals, but NOT good for relays or other things with multiple connections in close proximity.
Dielectric grease is an insulator. That seems counter intuitive for connections, but it is a strong deterrent to corrosion, and stray current paths. The way it works, when it's put on a connection, the mechanical action of connection displaces the grease allowing conductivity. Where the connection is not in firm mechanical contact, the dielectric grease insulates. Great stuff where dampness is present. Not great if your connection isn't in good contact.
The upshot of this, is you need a good mechanical connection if you're going to apply this silicone grease before making up your fitting. One thing that can really help this is the Deoxit spray. It seems to remove all impediments to conduction. So, on a critical connection, spraying first with Deoxit, ,making up the connection, followed by the dielectric grease is a pretty solid way to go. Some prefer to slather on dielectric grease before making connection, and this is usually ok as well. As an alternative to Deoxit, a good solid mechanical cleaning works equally well.
It is a terminal grease. Instructions say use a thin film layer.
I'll never use it again on solenoids, batteries and battery type cable. Put together dry and then spray is my new motto! Ha ha
make sure your connections are clean and tight........... then coat with a Dielectric grease to prevent corrosion and you will be good to go.
Bad starter caused all this. Heat sink problem!
Dielectric means insulate.
Yes. It really doesn't matter what you use to water proof your terminals as long as the connection is clean and tight.
And there are no sparks. That's where the wheels fall off the bus. Silicone grease is the waterproofing grease of choice because it doesn't contain carbon. Regular greases in a sparky environment form carbon granules when you shoot electricity through them. Silicone grease doesn't.
But best practice is a clean dry connection before you apply the waterproofing and to use a silicone grease.
FWIW in my toolroom at P.H. Precision Products Corp. the junior owner brought in some brand new Swiss tool holders and wanted me to drill and tap them for some "pointy set screws because the tools keep moving."
I waited until that department's foreman came in and gave him the lecture on the impossibility of squeezing the oil from the joint. Followed by the lecture on cleaning everything "bone dry" with odor-less mineral spirits followed by naphta before assembly. No more tool slippage.