We started our interior renovations of the coach by removing all the living room furniture, front seats, and carpet.
Our plan is to convert the bedroom into a bunk room for the kids, and find or build a more comfortable fold out/pull out sofa bed for Paige and me. We removed the convection oven/microwave to open up the space a bit. All florescent lighting is being converted to warm LED lighting (using the same light housings, and taking out the guts and affixing these from Amazon: LED Strip Lights (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLXWPXL)). We are sanding and whitewashing the paneling on the walls to lighten up the interior without losing the wood grain look. The walnut upper cabinets will stay their current finish.
The good news: Upon removing the carpet under the dinette area and in the bathroom, we found hardwood! Now the plan is to match the width of the existing flooring and continue it into the living room, and back into the bedroom. There is a small amount of water damage to the hardwood to one side of the commode, but nothing that seems recent or major.
The bad news: We found rotted plywood under the front furnace directly behind the driver's seat. This will have to be replaced, but the bigger question is how to find and fix the ingress of the water in the first place.
It looks like it could be running down the aluminum joint from the gutter, and getting behind the interface between the fender, horizontal aluminum trim over bay doors, and the vertical trim/seal. Then wicking in through some screws that are half rusted away. The rusted screws were standard sheetrock screws - this had to be from a previous (terrible) repair.
I've included several pictures of the renovation progress, and some detail photos around the driver's side fender.
Will I need to remove the whole piece of aluminum, clean, and seal it back? Is the no-sag version of Dicor good for this task?
I have additional questions around this too, but I'll wait for some input first. I don't know enough to ask the right questions on this issue.
Thanks everyone!
A few additional pics of the driver fender area.
Hey Chip , looks like you have a pretty big project in front of you. Looking from the outside in your first priority would be see the extent of damage to the side wall.
You may need to seek some serious help with that.
That being said can you tell how deep the wood is damaged? .
I meant to post this picture too. The main damage seems to be concentrated under the furnace area. The side wall doesn't seem impacted, though I have a scope camera I'll use this afternoon to check around further.
I plan to remove the rotted floor today to learn more.
Well good deal on the side walls hard to tell in the pictures, would think the scope would be able to give you a better idea.
Look forward to what you find👍
The cap comes loose and water intrudes from the seam and fender joints.
Had a little time today to start pulling up the rotten floor. Definitely glad the problem seems isolated to this one spot. There are other adjacent areas that look a little water stained, but tapping on them seem solid.
I'll still pull off all the horizontal trim over the bay doors to make sure the right screws and sealant are used though.
I have some additional insulation to get out and need to do some cleanup with a wire wheel to see what is salvageable. Right now, it looks like 1 or 2 of the 2" square tube sub floor supports need to be sectioned out and replaced. I'll also replace the foam insulation because everything is glued down and not easily removed (so it gets destroyed upon removal).
Replace the metal OR "sister" it (through bolt angle or box on either side of the damaged box beam). No welding needed.
That is not an area that sees a lot of traffic. As long as the structure by the outer wall is good, you should be OK
Oh, and be gentle with that round silver disk-- that is the level sensor for your HWH leveling system. It will need to be re calibrated upon installation.
Thanks Brett - will do regarding the HWH sensor. I suspected I'd need to recalibrate it, and I do have the exact location marked where it was located. Can I move it to a nearby location as long as it is in the same vicinity and not beyond too close to the wall?
Also a great idea to sister some angle iron or similar instead of welding. I'll know more about the possibilities after getting the insulation and rust cleaned out tomorrow.
Definitely goes to show that an ounce of prevention would have been worth a pound of cure on this one. I think the water intrusion would've been easy to resolve before things got like this.
Thanks all!
You can locate the HWH level sensor anywhere the cabling will reach.
To calibrate, manually get coach dead level (a carpenter's level works well). Adjust the three screws on the sensor until all the "out of level" lights on the panel go out. I know this is the method with HWH mechanical jacks. From there, you can fine-tune it next time you auto-level.
Someone else can confirm it also works on your air leveling system-- I have not had to calibrate the exact same one you have.
Chip7, you must go on roof and check all the joints at trim strips and sealed sections around roof equipment etc. On the edge radius doa very close inspection for fine cracks and check around windows for gaps on the frames and fibreglass panels. When you have it all gone over and fixed when putting back those trim strips you should put a small continous bead of polyurethane caulk along both the back edges of strip so when you screw it back on there is now a seal formed under the strip. When installing the new screws also put a dab of caulk on the screw thread so some sits under the head of the screw when tight. Wipe off any extra.
When fixing that steel tube coat the rusted part with phosphoric acid to help stop the rust.
Good luck with the fix.
JohnH
Cleaned out the insulation and discovered a couple of holes in the FRP above the front wheel. Since the foam is closed cell and seemed well glued to the FRP, I don't think this was the source of any water intrusion. I'll devise a patch for the holes tomorrow.
Interesting that the subfloor plywood/OSB seems to go on top of the steel frame all the way under the outside wall. It acts as a baseplate of sorts, with a steel angle iron above and below it.
Taking John's advice and modifying it a bit, I used a Rustoleum "rust converter" spray paint to coat the exposed steel after a twice over with a wire brush to knock off the surface rust.
I'll use Brett's idea to strengthen the the most impacted steel. Sistering with two 1.25" angle iron pieces, and through drilled/bolted. I'll spray paint the same rustoleum on the angle iron.
Pictures of the progress:
Re: The HWH level sensor - Brett's advice is spot on - as usual.
To expand a bit - the important thing is to mount the sensor to a solid horizontal surface where it won't be disturbed or kicked. It can sit inside on the coach floor, OR it can be located under the floor in a storage compartment hanging below the compartment ceiling. The arrow points to the rear of the coach.
Do not tighten the mounting screws so the springs are completely compressed - the sensor should "float" on the springs.
See page 23 from HWH 600 Series Service Manual:
Thanks Chuck - makes sense about the "floating". We will be building or modifying a sofa bed to go above the furnace, and I may wait to finalize a mounting place until that is figured out.
There might be enough length in the wire to take it back to the kitchen cabinets. Maybe mount it under the bottom drawer across from the steps? I'll check on that possibility this afternoon.
That is, in fact, exactly where the sensor was factory mounted in some Foretravel models. Would work fine. 8)
That is where I placed ours after I removed the j-couch, works fine.
Roland
Chip,get on the Rust Bullet site and order some paint to go over the rust oleum,will hold up much better and the square tubes that you salvage,get some spray undercoat or similar product and get inside the tube as much as you can.
Be very careful welding near the ply and veneer/ foam . That stuff is begging for a little flame and goes up very fast. Have buckets and hoses ready.
Weld out side away from any structures that you like ..
John - anything you recommend that's comparable to rust bullet and available locally (Home Depot, etc)? Trying to get this wrapped up so we can begin flooring on Thursday.
Thanks!
For metal treatment I use Ospho.
Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947 (http://www.ospho.com/)
Found at amazon and big box. Shop price. Good price for 1 gal is $25. Can get gouged.
Note: follow Ppe when using. Fumes are nasty, stay up wind. I have brushed and sprayed. Even dipped.
Try a body shop supply house and look for POR-15 paint,or if your area has a Eastwwod rust product store.
I have worn this mask when using Ospho, the fumes can eat up your lung.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Professional-Paint-Respirator-7500-Series/?N=5002385+8710670+3294427657&rt=rud
An overdue update:
Used a piece of 1.5" steel angle iron to sister the damaged floor support. One turned flat side up, one down on the opposite side. No reason for this except it made it easier to get the fasteners installed, and I was more concerned about stiffness than plywood subfloor support.
Coated all metal in rust inhibitor and then with rubberized undercoating (trying to get products as deep into the damaged tube as possible).
Cut out some of the paneling under the furnace opening as it was soft from water damage. Repaired a couple of holes in the wheel well material (FRP?) by making a patch with thin lexan on the top side, attached with loctite marine sealant. Sprayed patch area above and below with rubberized undercoating.
Cut pink foam insulation to fit and attached with the same adhesive. This left a small gap between the top of the insulation and the bottom of the new subfloor, so I partially filled the gaps with a couple of supporting pieces of 3/4" wood and some minimally expanding foam.
Cut notches around where immovable bolts were located using cardboard as a template for the subfloor replacement.
Used the loctite adhesive to attach the new subfloor down and bolted down with impact driver into the frame. Used self drilling tec screws into the angle iron and a couple of course wood screws into the supporting 3/4" wood strips below.
I had to work quickly, so I don't have pics of every stage.
Hopefully this can help someone with a similar repair!
We were unable to find a good match for the hardwood, so we pulled up the floors. This left the subfloor pretty chunky in places.
I got all the high spots down with a scraper, and used a self leveling product to smooth things out for a new pergo floating floor. I think it turned out great!
I also built a custom bench seat to replace the jack knife sofa. We will be full timing for a year with 5 kids, and this arrangement will serve us well. I hope to have the new sleeper sofa that goes in the passenger side wall in the next month (long lead time on the order).
Also modifying the dash area to better suit our needs. I've pulled the "Unihome" fascia off to rehab it a little and plan to put it back. Removed the center TV cabinet, and will cut out the center drawer down to floor level and build a custom bookshelf or something similar.
Also removed a lot of old unused electronic devices under the dash (old Motorola cell phone stuff primarily).