I've ordered a new fan controller, the wax valve type like others have installed. My questions today are how much coolant can I expect to catch when I drain the radiator? And should I go ahead and replace the rubber hoses between the steel pipes and radiator? They're swelled up pretty bad. That's what the picture shows.
I'm also going to adjust the valves on the engine in the next few days. Which should be fun for a 6'3" guy climbing in and out of the engine bay and finding somewhere to get comfortable.
That is a normal shape of the short hose. Worry about something else.
JohnH
If you can get a partner to turn the engine the job will go a lot faster. I think getting out of the engine bay to get to the rear to
turn over the engine is the worst part of the job and it is what takes the time.
When I replaced my radiator I drained about 4 five gallon buckets, and if your doing that I would change the hose no sense doing it twice😁
Let us know how you like the results of the wax valve
I will. It's got to be better than the one that doesn't work now
How did you get it back in?
With a HF hand pump ^.^d worked well for about 15 bucks
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.harborfreight.com/Multi-Use-Transfer-Pump-63144.html&ved=2ahUKEwiN18XcnLrqAhUNHqwKHchuBm4Qqa4BMAB6BAgFEAQ&usg=AOvVaw10t-Zy7CzcwtSWa3PTh0do&cshid=1594093451281
Those are silicone not rubber. Only think of changing if you see serious cracking. They last a looong time.
When I redid the aquahot, I got somewhere in the neighborhood of 16 gallons of fluid out of the system. I'm fairly certain that there was still a couple of gallons left in it. I had Transwest do an engine flush and refill with new antifreeze but their bill didn't state how much went back in. I have the M 11 engine.
Larry
How do you tell if they are silicone? I do notice that a few hoses have constant tension clamps on em but is there a way to id silicone vs rubber?
Silicone is usually blue or red on large hoses, on heater size hoses I have also seen black on the outside and white on the inside. Maybe someone can add to this.
I have gotten silicone blue heater hoses.
I left a word out on my post I meant to put also on the heater hose color. I have corrected.
To add to Chuck, it's a bit more expensive than rubber.
Use all constant tension clamps for sure
Silicone usually have a distinct burnt red color through out the thickness. Some have a blue outer covering but the red can be seen on the edge. However I have seen all black silicone hoses and it was very difficult to tell the difference but these are very rare.
They are usually a little softer and so have more fabric plies built into the wall. There are two reasons to select silicone over standard rubber:
1) Temperature: Silicone is good to 350F with polyester reinforcement plies. Rubber hoses are good to around 250F.
2) Long life: Replaced at overhaul. I think that is the reason FT installed silicone hoses on the radiator.
If you look a the hoses on the CAC you can be sure those are silicone but they are different from silicone coolant hoses. The CAC air gets very hot (above 350F) and the reinforcement fiber is aramid which brings the max temp to around 500F. They are usually thinner and have wire rings to help contain the pressure.
Cummins recommends OEMs use constant tension clamps (either coil or disk disk springs) on coolant connections. They handle the temperature changes better. They are required on CAC connections. I have had coolant connections drip a little in sub freezing conditions in the morning.
Thanks John, I now know what to look for. Was under the coach today for a trans filter change and drain, and eyeballed the line going to the retarder heat exchanger...pretty sketchy. Think I'm going to try and swap out all non silicone hoses.
IF they are black with a green stripe they are not silicone--and yes the bulge is normal for the short hoses. When I replaced my antifreeze (about 20 gallon) I replaces all the hoses
Chris
I started into the wax valve installation yesterday. Coolant was a little low but only filled two 5 gallon buckets. I had five on hand just in case. I could've taken a good nap in the time that it took to get those two buckets full. I got the part welded to the tube that the wax valve threads into last night. Then today got the pipe put back in and coolant back in. I borrowed a vacuum deal to pull a vacuum on the system. You also can attach a different fitting to pull in more coolant. Worked pretty slick. The gauge wasn't staying, indicating a leak of some sort. I then noticed my less than perfect welder and welding skills had not completely sealed the the part to the pipe and I could hear some hissing from it. Luckily my forethought had told me to put it up high in case it goes bad I won't have to drain all of the coolant to change it. I did have to drain about 2.5 gallons to get below the weld so I could fix it. I ordered the wrong fittings so I won't get to try it out until this week. I didn't end up changing the hoses. They looked good. I'll wait until I get home to my shop someday where I won't have to be so concerned with spills.
That pipe is aluminum on mine and would need heli-arc to install the bushing. Same as yours?
If you can remove it, take to a good welding shop and have them Tig weld it.
Mine was galvanized steel. I cleaned all of the galvanizing off where I was going to weld.
I would remove it any way you do it. The chips/shavings get down in the pipe.
They make weld on bungs in both steel and aluminum. They're probably like $20. That deal I used was $5.
Dj while I had my pipe off I put pressure caps on the ends so I could but about 20 lbs of pressure on pipe to check for leaks before I put it back on. Wound up using silver solder to stop a couple of pin holes. over a year and still no leaks!
Chris
Thanks Chris, that's a good idea. I got it patched up. It's not pretty but it doesn't leak anymore. Once I drained it I had to put a little pressure to it through the hose there on the top of the pipe. I wish it was here in the driveway so I could do this stuff. It always turns into a project just to get to the coach across town with the right tools. Then I could work on it more leisurely and not always be in a hurry. I didn't want to drain it again due to the fact that the place it's parked is very environmentally sensitive. So I did t want to take a chance on spilling anything. And of course we're leaving on a trip Wednesday and I've got what I believe is a loose bearing. The guys where we work are hopefully going to take them out and check/change them out. I've got a lot of little gremlins sneaking up on me.