Pulled the 3 bolt end cap off and the cone air filter won't clear the coolant pipe to remove it. Do I need to unbolt the entire canister to get it out? or is there a trick to it
Thanks
Every a coach can be different, show us a picture . . .
pictures
Dan, That looks more like a picture of your hydraulic oil reservoir, than your air cleaner. To get at the air cleaner, open the bay door furthermost at the rear on the drivers side.
These are pictures, off another's rv, of the air cleaner housing and the hydraulic oil reservoir, on your same year FT.
Agree with Jack.
The long tube under the reservoir laying horizontal is the air cleaner on this 8.3 Cummins. The right end comes off and you pull the aircleaner out but it hits the coolant tube before clearing the canister
Jack, the oil resevoir is above the air cleaner so his comment about it is correct. Seems funny that he cannot pull the filter out without unbolting the canister. Dan try again to see if you can wiggle it out of can
JohnH
Dan, sorry, Maybe someone in the forum with a 1995 U295 with the 6C8.3 can help?
It appears FT made a change in the air cleaner placement in the mid model year of 1996
You must have an early 1996 build as yours looks more like the videos I see on line for a 1995 with the Cummins 8.3. So, I have no idea of what to tell you.
Later 1996 and 1997 6C8.3 had the filter housing behind that last bay door, not at the back of the engine like yours.
Yes, believe me I wiggled it but it won't clear, so You either undo the canister or remove the coolant pipe apparently. Of course I'll remove the canister as I'm not due for an antifreeze change yet. Just kinda sucks that it won't just slide out. The good news is it doesn't need replaced now as I could inspect it
Hi Dan,
We are aware of air cleaner relocated over the years.
FYI, Our air cleaner cover has 4 corner bolts with plastic nuts.
Don't have an answer to your findings, but since filter looks good, someone did change it.
Maybe this is why later coaches ran input & output air flow pipes a much longer way, to house it behind side compartment door.
Dan, Your problem may no longer be a filter that needs replacing because of air flow, but one that needs replacing because of dislodged dirt around the seals, etc. (See the following video)
Wolf10 has often warned of this "dust" entering an engine after it has been dislodged. It will need changing now as you have stirred up dirt in the housing and filter that can harm your engine. I read you pulled your rv out to charge the batteries.
I would not drive the rv very far after you have now disloged that dirt, until you have cleaned out the housing, and replaced the filter. You can find lots of warnings about this.
Donaldson says a visual inspection is not the way to inspect the filter, they recommend: "To measure restriction of a naturally aspirated diesel engine, the reading is taken at full-governed RPM with no load."
Jerry Whiteaker may have your same setup, as it appears he has an early 1996. You might try a PM to him. It also appears from post post #9, John44, may have your same air housing. I would send him a PM.
Luber finer air filter (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=35050.0)
These filters are from a previous thread.
1995 & 1996 C8.3 300HP
* Donaldson P12-9472
* Fleetguard AF931M
* Baldwin PA2500
* Wix 42611
1997 & New C8.3 300HP and 325HP
* Donaldson P14-8043
* Fleetguard AF954M
* Fleetguard AF1838
* Baldwin PA3951
Also an appropriate thread indicating a mid year 1996 change in the air filter.
Air Filter - 1996 U270 C8.3 (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=7661.0)
https://youtu.be/MJ2HViIGDeQ
Air Filter Indicators & Gauges | Donaldson Engine & Vehicle (https://www.donaldson.com/en-us/engine/filters/products/air-intake/accessories/filter-service-indicators/standard-indicators-gauges/)
Dan, is your filter element conical or cylindrical? Interesting to note the cyclonic separator mounted upstream of the filter housing. The filter on my 96 U295 is located in the bay behind drive wheels. No separator. I would prefer your setup, though, even if it's more of a hassle to change.
"Dans"
Here is a photo of my air cleaner, looks very much like your setup. I have removed mine for cleaning the canister, replacing, first with a NAPA replacement and then more recently with a Donaldson Blue. Make sure that you replace it (when you decide to) with the correct air flow type. Yours should be like mine with a reverse air flow (inside to outside flow).
It's a tight fit but I don't remove anything but the cap to replace it.
Dan,
It appears you have the Donaldson H000878 vertical separator. Donaldson H000878 (https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-us/product/H000878/12416)
With that set up you they had to move the filter to the center of the coach. You may to have to remove the clamps on the inlet and outlet piping to be able to swing the canister out to the rear of the coach to get the filter element out. Yes a pain to do.
Mike
Do you guys with this setup service the separator as well?
Yep. That's mine and it was replaced recently before I bought it. Mike is correct, looks like I need to swing the entire canister out a bit and then remove. I did read the articles on inspection. Good stuff. I'm glad to know this is an improvement on the other design so I'll quip bitching and get to wrenching it out!
Thanks again!
Pictures shows BOTH hydraulic reservoir (vertical) and engine air filter (horizontal).
Outside air into the CENTER, filtered air out the OUTSIDE-- you can see the metal piping to the intake side of the turbo. SO, be sure there is metal grid on the filter on the OUTSIDE (or both sides) to keep the filter from collapsing.
And, if you have the filter configuration with a duck bell (water drain) check it and replace if stiff or cracked.
Yes. I bought the metal grid ring style after reading the forum warnings. Thanks
Have the same setup,my filter comes out very easy,we use the Donaldson blue,I would take the piping apart and clean the separator,as to the "dust",I would rather clean the dust out then have a wet crushed air filter that the filter minder never told me about.
My factory setup doesn't have a filter reminder but it is clean as a whistle in and out so good there. This type also doesn't get wet as the other designs I've read about.
Dans..........
Are you sure there isn't a filter minder behind the flap that covers the rear engine start panel?
That is where mine is on our 95', I know yours is not a GV but its only 1 year newer. Same exact engine...........
I'll look but I don't remember seeing one. Thanks
I think I know why why some have the separator and some don't. If you have the setup where air is delivered to the inside of filter and then the turbo pulls from outside of filter....the duckbill drain wouldn't work in this configuration, leading to the necessity of the cyclone separator to remove water prior to filter. Sound right?