On a recent short trip noticed stop engine light flickered occasionally. Aubrey suggested coolant level. Sure enough, coolant tack a little low and overflow all but empty. Went to fuel today, light still on and off. Can make it come on and stay while under load if a steep hill and floor the peddle. Flicker seem to occur at accellerating gear changes. 2001 U295 ISC 350 HP. Oil pressure 55+/-5 at cruise, bounces into 40s shifting, much lower at idle (20s?). Was planning to go to Mountain Home tomorrow, 6hrs with some long fairly steep grades. Getting it under load does seem to be involved. Haven't changed oil/filters in well over a year, maybe close to two once I look at what I wrote on filters, but mile are a little under 10k. May just need to wait and get codes run next week, but sure wanted to go sit by that 50 degree river for a few days. Any suggestion about cause or simple fix? I already have whats needed , so going ahead with oil change once engine cooled in an hour or so.
When I change oil I want the engine as hot as I can get it to drop the oil. I make wait till it cools to change the filters.
Saw the question about air filter down the page and remembered we went 15 miles on a very dusty gravel road just before this started. Checked filter and tapped/blew prolly a good cup or two of fine dust out of it. Minder still indicated ok but don't see how it should have! Going to drive and see if that changed anything.
Thanks for the tip on oil change. A no brainer...
Tapping/blowing dirt out of an air filter IS NOT RECOMMENDED.
Too easy to break a pleat and allow dirt straight into the engine.
Suggest you change it immediately.
You might check the ground connection for the coolant sensor. I had intermittent problems with stop engine light and it was a loose ground.
Can't find a separate ground for the sensor. Everything goes over and plugs to a larger harness before going back further in the engine bay.
Clearing the air filter did seem to provide a noticable increase in power, but no change in the light.
X two on what Brett said about the air filter!
Lots of opinions on this subject, I tend to like this answer....
What happens when you drain the oil when cold? Nothing...
What happens when you drain the oil when warm? Nothing...
What happens when you drain the oil when hot? Nothing...
Using the correct oil and filter along with changing oil at proper intervals and maintaining correct oil levels are important things to concentrate on. Oil temperature during change is a non issue.
I had a flickering light once. It was either a bad chassis ground or a bad cell in the chassis battery IIRC.
Mark
The oil change seems to have made it go away.??! Now the air filter. $70 from Amazon or $144 from NAPA. Hmmm, what to do? Grrr!
Check the posts on air filters. Donaldson recommended. Spec on label on outside of filter housing. Oil temp at change mostly relates to how much time you have to wait for it to drain. A hot drain may flush more impurities residing in the bottom of the pan.
Since you have the Cummins ISC with the CAPS fuel injection system, the problem could be fuel starvation which if it throws a code will likely show up as an overpumping error. In my case, I fought with intermittent stop engine lights for way too long. I would suggest installing a remote fuel pressure gauge, but the CAPS system electronic fuel transfer pump (lift pump) only runs for about 30~45 seconds with each key on event in order to prime the CAPS gear pump which from that point on is sucking on a 25' (or more) straw to draw fuel from the forward mounted tank. This means that while going down the road or indeed after the initial key on event priming action, the 25' or so of fuel line is under a vacuum. If the fuel lines are original, it is possible or even likely that air is getting into the fuel supply through micro cracks in the OEM rubber fuel hose. If that is the case, while under load the CAPS pump will starve for fuel as it loses vacuum through the air intrusion and cavitation is more likely on the input side of the gear pump. Since I had already had all the fuel lines replaced, I knew that fuel lines were unlikely to be the problem.
The problem with installing a remote reading fuel pressure gauge with the part time OEM Electronic lift pump is that you would need a gauge that also reads a vacuum. I wasn't able to identify a good option for that, so (after I had exhausted all of my cheaper options) I opted to go for a Autometer remote fuel pressure gauge after installing a FASS heavy duty fuel transfer pump that runs full time. This required installing a relay on the OEM Electronic lift pump 12V supply on the engine harness so that the engine computer wouldn't throw a code which results in a check engine light that disables the start sequence. There is an outfit in Washington that has made a kit that has of most of the needed components to install the FASS fuel pump. I am not saying this is your problem, but if the stop engine light issue persists, it is a lot cheaper than a new CAPS pump (think 3 to 4K$) and may completely cure the problem as it seems to have in my case. True, the CAPS pump in ours may still need to be replaced eventually, but at the very least it has punted that cost down the road. I have confidence because I can monitor the fuel pressure and am able to see in real time that the CAPS pump is not starving for fuel, which can only be a good thing! If you want more info, you know what to do ;)
Don