Our 160 amp Leece Neville (about 7 years old) just quit. Shows 12.5 V on the dash gauge and the cruise control quit working when the supplied voltage gets down low.
How do I know? The same thing happened years ago on the way home from Texas.
So, any suggestions as to alternative brands, etc?
Alternators are rebuildable and usually you can save some money. Brushes then control usually is what fails. Belt isn't slipping if it's belt drive?
Scott
alternator (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34714.msg321058#msg321058)
When I did a recent search, Delco also makes one but the Leece-Neville is rated high? I found them for under $300 on the LN brand
No offense, but 7 years with a lot of use may be normal these days. I'm not sure anything is built as well as it used to be
If you don't mind spending the bucks for a genuine Delco, it's a definite step up. Lots of knock offs that say Delco, probably the only way to get a real one is buying from a legit store. That said, I modified a ebay LN to duvac, and had to rebuild it down the road. Simple and cheap to do, still solid after seven years now.
I've never had any trouble with LN alternators. Over tightened belts ruin bearings on a lot of alternators. A loose connection on the back can cause the area to overheat. Quite a few alternator rebuild shops use as few new parts as they can get away with. That's why so many rebuilt alternators don't last.
With a multimeter aka VOM, you can troubleshoot it yourself. Prestolite - Leece Neville (http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_support/trouble_shoot_1.php)
Pierce
It could be the brushes might be sticking
The LN have an adjustable voltage regulator. STD settings are too high for long drives in warm weather.,
My oem LN lasted almost 20 years.
My replacement runs too high for summer use. Overcharges the batteries.
Rebuild the oem and turn it to the 13.6 at the batteries that Foretravel set it at.
There was a reason. Unless you have exotic batteries
Took ours to a electric shop and in a day, got it back and it looked brand new. New bearings, regulator, brushes and for under $80. There is nothing wrong with the LN. Great back then, great now!
Mine is 24 years old and counting. Crap, now I've doomed it
27 years with no problems.
P
Joe that's an incredible price. Did you do the work?
Bob,
We've got a guy in Auburn, CA that does an excellent job for $65 including aircraft alternators. Might be a little more for a larger alternator and for a major part replacement. Bigger shops have bigger overheads so charge more. Typical job would including cleaning and bead blasting, good bearings, brushes, check and replace diodes, internal regulator.
I love Bosch alternators. Flat screwdriver removes the brush/diode/regulor assembly in about 30 seconds without even loosening the belt(s).
Pierce
Make sure it is your alternator and not your battery isolator, when the isolator goes bad it does not allow voltage to go through. Check the voltage at the alternator going to the isolator.
I went with a Delco Remy 28SI 200amp. I like the open case design. Has to be better cooling. I replaced last year so can't say how good longevity will be.
Delco Remy 8600313 Alternator 28SI 12V 200A | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Remy-8600313-Alternator-28SI-12V-200A/254133398906)
see ya
ken
X2 what Ken says. I bought my Delco last year from FindItParts for $250 (using a 5% off coupon) plus free shipping. Price has gone up a little, but they still offer the coupon deal when you first visit the web page.
I haven't got around to installing mine yet. I'm under no pressure cuz our old alternator is still working OK.
I don't know what is the significance of the slightly different part number between Ken's link and my link.
8600307 by DELCO REMY - School Bus Alternator - 200A, Model 28SI (https://www.finditparts.com/products/635859/delco-remy-8600307?utm_campaign=confirm&utm_medium=email&utm_source=OrderMailer)
8600313 is Short Hinge
8600307 is Long Hinge
Either will work, the top brace will rotate to fit.
Note:
The 28SI and 40SI Delcos will not work with the Foretravel OEM diode isolator. They need 12V on the B+ stud at start up to initialize the ASIC regulator chip.
These alternators do NOT have an excite terminal. Connecting ignition excite directly to the alternator "I" (Indicator Lamp) terminal will damage the regulator.
A diode isolator with excite terminal, or a Sterling ProSplit-R with excite terminal will work well with these Delcos, several members have used Delcos with these isolators with great results.
No, just called around and found this electric shop that has been in business for well over 50 years and thought, if anyone could check the alternator out, they could. Just was doing some preventive maintenance, per Chris Lang, on the alternator, as it was 19 years old and no issues, but could leave us stranded one day. Not sure if someone wants to drive to Lebanon, TN, but if so, it is called Crooks Electric. Oh, they gave me a veteran discount as well! 10%
Hey Peter - Howya doin?
Yes, I forgot about that little detail. I am running a Victron Argofet isolator with B+ energize input so no problem. I don't know how Ken hooked up his Delco 28SI. Perhaps it is better we do not recommend these Delco models to the general membership unless we also include caveats.
Victron Argofet Battery Isolator (https://baymarinesupply.com/argo-fet-battery-isolator.html)
IF you are going to replace the alternator Id say do it with a brushless continuous duty.
If you still have an original diode based isolator it may be time to replace it before it fails even if you aren't changing your alternator. The brushless Delco Remy alternators are more efficient, run cooler and use less HP to run.
You would need to go with the 40SI model to get brushless plus remote sense plus the compatibility of bolt-in J180 hinge mount. Pricey! :o
Advantages of Brushless Alternators | Delco Remy (http://www.delcoremy.com/alternators/alternator-features/brushless-durability)
http://www.delcoremy.com/getmedia/f651dcc3-60db-4186-80eb-154b8111fdf0/Delco-40SI-Single-Page-Brochure-3-16.pdf.aspx
Delco Remy 8600280 Alternator 40si 12v 275a for sale online | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/p/850695937?iid=254133464905&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254133464905&targetid=915708758100&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028611&poi=&campaignid=10460112951&mkgroupid=101996179565&rlsatarget=pla-915708758100&abcId=2145998&merchantid=118936092&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_4Xv-erR6gIVjobACh0g0w64EAQYBiABEgIenPD_BwE)
Thanks all for the suggestions. BUT, and I do mean BUT. we have had a number of unexpected expenses occur with our vehicles (engine replacement, front wheel spindle, alternator, etc), house (well removal) and medical.
Our budget allocates X dollars for the coach and the repairs I have done so far have limited any additional expenditures beyond just a rebuild of the existing alternator.
Also, consider that, due to medical issues, appointments, our ages, Covid 19, that our use of our coach is severely curtailed. So, major upgrades just do not make sense for us to do to a 31 year old coach, as much as we love it and like to keep it in tip top condition.
I thought I would summarize options that can be used for those contemplating upgrading to a Delco alternator:
Isolators with excite terminal
Sterling ProSplit-R Isolators (https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/12vmodelszerovoltdropbatteryisolator00vdropalternatorsplittingsystem.aspx)
Victron Argofet Battery Isolator (https://baymarinesupply.com/argo-fet-battery-isolator.html)
Sure Power 240 Amp Isolator (http://www.ase-supply.com/Sure_Power_24023aIB_Battery_Isolator_p/sp-24023a-ib.htm)
Add your own diode
This is how my 1991 Foretravel U300 was set up, here is a cut from the B-2035 schematic. This is a way to use an isolator without the excite terminal, and still have the Delco alternator work properly. Diode isolators with the excite terminal have a small diode inside connected to the alternator terminal.
(https://www.foreforums.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4459)
One thing to consider is your battery cabling. I remember when Roger updated to that lightening bolt producing 40SI 240Amp rig. He had to also upgrade the cables. My 98 320 has cables sufficient to handle 180amps. So I limited the alternator to that 180 amp max figure.
Duh, memory failure again!!
Our LN alternator is only a 130Amp.
My excuse? It has been several years since it was replaced.
I took mine to an auto electric shop in town with a good reputation. They completely overhauled it with all oem parts for 230.00. it's a 160amp alt.
Nitehawk,
Get you a 1/4" nut driver and remove the 4 screws out of the voltage regulator. This will let you check the brushes as they are hid under there. Now be aware they are spring loaded but won't go flying. Once the regulator is pulled back just reach down and grab one of the 2 springs that you have exposed and GENTLY pull up and out. If one has gotten stuck you can clean it up and put them back together. One of the brush leads may be bunt in to and will need to be replaced. A set of brushes are about $6.
If you look real close at the brush holders back side there is a small hole (I can see it in the pics) You take a straw and push the first brush spring down past this point. Take a straightened out paper clip and insert in this little hole. This will hole the brush spring in place. Do this to the 2nd brush and push the paper clip in deep enough to hold this brush. You are now ready to replace the voltage regulator. Just set it back in place and put the 4 screws back in place. Once bolted down pull the paper clip. You now can give it a try.
Mike
Thanks, Mike. I will give it a shot.
This weekend hot, humid and stormy so will most likely be next Monday or Wednesday. Dr visits every Tues & Thurs really messes up my week, along with mowing whenever grass is dry or it is not raining.
I was hopeful someone would come forward with how I could check/repair the most obvious things without having to have special tools.
You are the answer to my prayer.
Nitehawk,
Before we retired work kept a leash on us, now it seems like the Dr. has us on a leash.
One other thought: when you pull the regulator up you will have a Yellow wire (or should be yellow) connected to a stud inside. This wire is about 2" long but long enough to get the brushes out with out unhooking this wire. Make sure that this wire is tucked back in place when you put the regulator back in. Said another way make sure you don't pinch it into with it hung under the mounting flange.
Mike