Well I went ahead and purchased the shocker hitch for my stacker trailer and plan to give it a full review and testing. We haul vintage VWs all over to various shows. My trailer is a 27' vintage stacker with a lift, full cabinets, loft area. I feel this will be a great benefit to towing it behind my motorhome. I have read and talked to another individual that is also towing a stacker and using this very same setup he absolutely swears by it. Anything that can make it better on my old gal I am all for it.
Since we pulled a tri axle 24 foot trailer for 6 years when we full timed the first time, I might suggest you have your frame checked. We had additional gussets installed in various places under the frame work of the coach. A huge trailer place in Orlando did the work and we were very happy with results. Had a friend that the whole under carriage broke loose on SOB coach, but got me thinking about what could happen with ours, as it was loaded! Just a FYI! I like your hitch set up, but we had a standard with a 5 foot tongue installed on the trailer, for easy backup!
Least we forget brad had an issue with his towing last trip out to the dunes. Remember his pickup tried to pass!
The tow hitch I have seen all have needed additional length going into the receiver hitch on the back of our coaches. I added at least 4 inches to my hitch to help prevent exactly what happened to Brad
Scott
I perform inspections of the area and welds on a regular basis and I never go over the allowed capacity of the allowed tow weight of the coach.
Towing near max loads I would do that inspection every time I stopped until I had my unit tweaked. Then I would inspect every 3rd stop. The rigs are built to pull and stop. If there is a weak link it will be where they are coupled together.
I'm not understanding this. The added piece of tubing was added to the tow bar? What is that extra length accomplishing without additional length of receiver tubing and pins on the RV side, braced or welded to different frame members?
The additional length inserts deeper into the hitch and goes into a welded area supported by the hitch main support. This reduces loads on the reciever part of the hitch. Sticking out the back of the hitch
Sorry got pictures swapped in order
Now hitch is inserted five inches past my finger and load is not all on weld around the reciever tube (at finger location). Much more shear capacity
Now hitch is inserted five inches past my finger and load is not all on weld around the reciever tube (at finger location). Much more shear capacity
Good hitch! got any 68 Type 2's....Brother in law's looking
I have two but neither are for sale.