Hi Group,
I need to remove my old rm4804 dometic refrig. thru the entry door. The frig is 23 1/2" wide, my door is 24". The door latch uses a stud bolt as the striker bar on the frame. You can see that it has a bold head on it. If I unscrew it, will the nut or what ever that is on the inside of the door frame to fall off in the frame where I cannot reach it????? Same question about the smaller phillip head screw thing below the striker bar??????
Pat,
I don't know but suggest you call PTL Engineering in the morning. They have been very helpful for me.
Rich
I am sure it is basically a bolt so whole thing will come off when you obdo it
John h
I assume you have removed the door from the fridge?
MOT uses the window, ut then again they also use a forklift with a pallet to slide the unit out on and the new one in
Tim Fiedler
If there is a free floating nut on the end of the striking bolt, you might be able to drop a rare earth magnet attached to an electrician's snake down the opening above it. That might allow you to capture the nut.
Len
There is no nut. I took mine off.
Pat,
Before you do one more thing, call me at 740-973-3134
Steve
Pat,
Call me at 740-973-3134
Steve
On Tue, Jul 21, 2020, 8:01 PM pthurman48 via ForeForums noreply@foreforums.com> wrote:
I had difficulty with my latch (2000 u320) and took it apart to repair. Hope these photos help.
Not exactly a "Swiss watch".
Update:
Got the old RM4804 out the entry door with ease, just slid it down the steps on a throw rug. I did remove the front trim ring, 4 screws and lots of glue.
The striker bolt does unscrew and there is a nut plate that floats in the channel, it does not move much. The bottom phillip screw bumper also unscrews and the nut plate floats in channel, but you can see and touch it.
Waiting on new frig., want be here till monday. Did some of the wood work, new refrig is 60" tall my opening is 63". Width of new refrig is 23" opening is 23 1/2". Depth of new refrig is 23" opening is 26".
Pat,
Pat,
Sounds like a perfect fit. You will have room for a couple inches of foam board behind the new fridge. Every little bit helps.
Richard
Yes, adhere STRICTLY to installation instructions for clearances. Too much in back gives poor refrigerator performance.
Very interesting, I had no idea. I learn new things every day. Thanks
Richard
Very interesting. Speaking of replacing the 4804 dometic that is. We had our coach in the shop last week for a new Norcold. ( what are you replacing it with Pat ?). Turns out I took measurements with the ice maker below included,, well as some of you may already know ya can't do that cause the ice maker part doesn't go all the way through to the outside wall.
So the new fridge didn't fit , they sent it back and then they ordered a shorter one that will fit. Norcold is on the way. Of course the dometic fridge has worked flawlessly since I booked the original appointment,, everything but the ice maker. Which the Norcold will have.
I am using Home Depot and this refrig (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Chef-10-1-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-Black-HMDR1000BE/302245062?keyword=HMDR1000bE&semanticToken=d00300r011200000_ac3301446759fd31d75e6e34571b45db_1594953415506+d00300r011200000+%3E++cnn%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cnr%3A%7B7%3A0%7D+cnp%3A%7B10%3A0%7D+cnd%3A%7B4%3A0%7D+cne%3A%7B8%3A0%7D+cnb%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cns%3A%7B5%3A0%7D+cnx%3A%7B3%3A0%7D+cnq%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cnw%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+cnv%3A%7B0%3A0%7D+st%3A%7Bhmdr1000be%7D%3Ast+oos%3A%7B0%3A1%7D+tgr%3A%7BNo+stage+info%7D+smf%3A%7Bca%2Cbr%7D%3Asmf+nf%3A%7B1%7D%3Anf+qu%3A%7Bhmdr1000be%7D%3Aqu)
I called Magic Chef Customer Support about running the unit on an inverter. The docs say don't do it. The support person said that the unit is not built or tested for operation on an inverter. The problem with inverters is the power source that they use to invert DC into AC voltage. If the batteries are low/unstable the inverter cannot function properly. On startup surge it takes a lot of DC amps. Slow starts cause longer surge current and there by more heat in compressor motor. After time it wears on it.
This unit will draw running about 2.6 AC amps/300 watts and 6 AC amps/690 watts. In a park 50 amp shore line no problem. I do have a 6.5kw propane genset. We don't dry camp much. I do drive 360 miles/6 hrs+rest stops and food per day. I have 2 Flooded Cell 8 D batteries for coach. I have 160 amp alternator. I would like to run on a inverter during travel.
I believe that using an inverter is Ok, if you can make sure you don not have any slow starts. IMHO
What do you think???
Pat,
Group,
My entry door is not closing as smooth as it was a year ago, I noticed the striker bolt appears to be loose and moves around an 1/8 in all directions. Don't know if this is normal?
Steve
If you have the PTL door that is normal. Look for a post about it.
Like craneman said, the mechanism is designed to float. You can unscrew the post and give it a good cleaning and light lube and it will likely work better.
jor
Pat. We thought looong and hard about a residential fridge but flipped a coin and went with a propane replacement ( will work on 110 also) .. mostly I guess cause it's a propane coach ( water heat, furnace (2) & fridge ). It would be a big change to eliminate the propane system completely and after driving a propane truck for years I'm not afraid of it. Sure is significantly higher cost for the fridge though.
Cost wise I've noticed when we refuel propane that we use about 1 gallon per day when dry camping ( which we prefer ) and about the same when plugged in. Depends on weather I drag out the space heater , activate the 110 on the water heater and switch the fridge to electric. I don't do that unless we "plug in" for a few days or more. Sitting in our driveway my monitor said we use around $4.00 a day in electric.
I do expect I'll be adding some systems for extra fire protection and monitoring including adding 1/4 " hardy to the walls of the fridge compartment.