What is best method to pump out oil when doing your own oil change?
?
Rubbermade tub large enough to hold all the oil.
Line it with two layers of HD black trash bags so the tub stays clean.
Drain oil, then filter.
New filter and install drain plug.
Pour old oil into the gallon jugs, back into the case and to Walmart or auto parts house for recycling.
While you could pump from the dip stick tube, you will not do as good a job that way.
Brett--engine cold? Or hot?
I always do HOT. Car, truck, boat or motorhome.
Hot engine but install a quick drain with a vacuum cleaner before and then you can drain one gallon at a time (or more or less) without spilling a drop. Best to install a flush quick drain so it can't get knocked off if your drain is on the bottom of the pan. See my oil change post with photos on how to do it. Puncture oil filter and you won't make a mess either. Make sure new oil filter is the same as the old oil filter.
See reply #14 here: First oil change, fuel filter changes, air filter, hydraulic etc C8.3 Cummins (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=34555.msg318937#msg318937)
Many people have cross threaded the drain plug into the aluminum oil pan and cost themselves a lot of $$. Once the quick drain is installed, this is no longer possible.
Cummins Engine EZ Oil Drain Valve - Raney's Truck Parts (https://www.raneystruckparts.com/cummins-engine-ez-oil-drain-valve/)
Pierce
Please CONFIRM, but, I believe aluminum pans are only on Cummins M engines.
Never thought of puncturing the oil filter to drain. Thanks
ONLY after you have loosened it a 1/2 turn or so.
Said another way, you would not want a punctured filter that you could not remove. And, yes you need to make sure you have the correct replacement filter!
"EZ oil drain valve" I'd like to get one but how do I figure out the size, without removing what I have to measure?
I have a 2003 ISL 400 Cummins.
Just get the size off the site I posted above.
Don't know about all Cummins oil pans. Detroits have a steel pan.
You should have a strap wrench to loosen the filter. Something like this one: Lisle 63500 Big Range Strap Type Filter Wrench 83045635000 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-63500-Big-Range-Strap-Type-Filter-Wrench/232274342972?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D227672%26meid%3D5f1cb864ecb74b5791f68fc005f498ce%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D283504626606%26itm%3D232274342972%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bDemotionZeroArw%26brand%3DLisle&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851)
If you loosen the filter more than a very tiny bit, the oil will run down the sides and make a big mess. I like driving a punch into the bottom. You then get a container below and remove the punch. The oil goes into the container without any mess. After it has completely drained, you can remove the filter without spilling any oil.
Once you pull the regular oil pan drain plug, you better not slip, get burned, etc or you will have a HUGE mess. The quick drain controls it as you can attach a plastic tube and turn the flow on or off as you wish.
Pierce
Oil drain valve sure will also make it easy to get oil sample.
Hopefuly no one will play a practical joke, open it right before you get on to road :'(
propman,
You may want to go with the No Spill system. Look at there compact design. Be aware what ever you go with the ISL engine had a oil drain plug change along the way. Make sure which size you have no matter which system you go with.
https://www.nospillsystems.com/index.cfm
Mike
I prefer slipping a ziplock bag over the oil filter before loosening. No need for a puncture and slow drain.
Hey, that works. But if you've warmed the engine, the filter may also be quite warm when you grab it. The puncture method does take two or three minutes to drain.
Pierce
Or you could get a Fumoto. They are not as compact as the no-spill but on the 8.3 (mine, at least) they are out of the way so in little danger of being hit by anything. They are much cheaper than the no-spill too. I still have a no-spill in a drawer somewhere but it's for an M-11. (you never know)
jor
Seems to me if one punctures filter while still on coach, to drain oil, AND filter is so stuck on for whatever reason that it does not come off, vehicle is dead and cannot be driven.
Since we put filter on, likely it will come off ok. But for a filter that we have not personally installed, puncture may not be a good idea.
We also use NoSpill Compact style, slow drain into emptied out Rubbermaid container, pour old oil into wide opening of Lowes 5-gal covered pail, leave pail with oil at Walmart auto repair. Figure cost of pail + cover into do-it-ourselves oil change savings.
Another brand of drain valve is Fumoto,been around a long time and have a good sizing chart,have straight and angled sizes.
True, but easily circumvented by loosening the filter 1/4 turn before puncturing it. 1/4 turn is not enough to have it start leaking from the seal, but enough to confirm that you CAN get it off.
Having used aircraft sump drain valves, which the Fumoto and no spill systems are alike, sometimes they get debris between the seal and sealing surface and leak. Or may have a heat hardened o-ring seal become damage and leak. Would you have to buy new drain or are o-ring replacements available?
Thats why it's smart to purchase the HD strap wrench I included in an above post. You are going to have to take the filter off anyway so use the strap wrench to loosen it a quarter turn. This way, you are assured that the filter is going to come off. Then puncture it, wait a little while for the filter to drain and then complete the filter removal. No fuss, no mess, no stress.
Pierce
John, what is that black peice of material around sump for.
Johnh
When I have a stuck filter I puncture it to drain, pound a big screwdriver through it, for leverage, loosen it, remove screwdriver, remove filter.
No one has mentioned channel locks yet,have a big set that works great on a filter,an added bonus is you can tell which ones
are the cheap filters and which are not by how easily they crush,the best filters out there are Cat.
The biggest reason I like the heavy duty strap wrenches is that they not only take off any oil or fuel filter but the 6 inch capacity also fits my spin-on air dryer. You can use a 1/2" ratchet and even put a pipe on the ratchet handle. They also roll up so they take up almost no space compared to the strap wrenches for sale in the parts stores.
About $12 on up: Performance Tool HEAVY DUTY STRAP FILTER WRENCH - W173C | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Tool-HEAVY-DUTY-STRAP-FILTER-WRENCH-W173C/254518883196?epid=2285794985&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3b4281f37c:g:VNcAAOSwAMVeT1fk&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%252B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMVaanl18kyV%252F4%252FiEK7JLmIPVCI0XENo%252Fk0%252FqfMNSoCtt8aDcKiyLfp9Es1xi%252B8UTewUsetpC3QdAPoTU0bQkgfqCmtzFjs17kHx8TuvzBcUxQkWAqFkX7oNuMXZXwJP7CxpaQKYAeqwNkzRDgEBjZq%252BnIbEyUPG3ufBTLU9zhUvxEH7vRpG0Yn91mowKuU%252F5qg5Dy3Q3UXlkFb%252BWT9wgOd7g39IG7lOTkf%252FSy7tj6O%252F3pXwwvTXCYzxx%252B9ruu5lQ5y2pWusukc0Ks4c7lQVvje9jtRA8aJYFKsUOtyJ%252Fid%252FExaKl0%252BNaIuIwrSqxkyvZi2yhrt9kFTaNkKRINbK1BPkLKxYWAj8Bh3GJ4kIiCERFzN0NT0FgGL%252FVC%252BW3Wqezlhby9oPy%252FhiiRfSfW6C3hFuUUVPSg5OcxoSJ5TaCGV%252FgbAJGyVzKQKD341UZtuK1q%252BJyjH1YkmTPXABO6F9BVndXW2uQlcO3XZAo%252BGrp2yLcQYaQM2afgZsHyUDVTYPjJSvBBB5bsnTOwh6DPbfXNl0LmLioxuJt9z2mFEPPAhJ9gIo2qDl%252FIW790OO69znWKkc385waraUPe4zzOmnGi87NygmkKeTIQUEdwOYVZzMeOEieYWlqQA%252FoTuwvxGebmVBT%252Bzf2PayWdBQKvJ5WXZgsg%252BqrFlC5G%252BoaOStw%252B8UAMj6ePCu6c8ZiKmFJA6re8AalkvOTn4xglXeHnYOfV1U%252BEbAKqKaDLPEnQNXXlZYOPTvkHFwGWq06PNHEN8dHFA%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A254518883196ab2c13a71f6c4fc5818ff0610b0d4d22%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524)
Pierce
I had to get one of those pipe wrench in order to get my fuel filter off the old HD2500 Chevy Trucks.
I got this one. More expensive than the other one posted, but it works really well. My oil filter was on very tight. Tried using another strap wrench but could not get enough leverage. Used this one with a 1/2" ratchet and a long extension. Strap Wrench (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2LV4DS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Caterpillar sells a heavy duty one,think it's made by Snap-on.
Home Depot sells these. I use one for oil & fuel filters.
jor
They work great for most filters but I could not get my spin-on air dryer to budge as it slipped no matter what I did. They come really tight from the factory. Since they have a 6 inch diameter, there is more rubber gasket area against the base. Since I might like to inspect the air dryer, I didn't want to use the HD chain type as it's meant for one time off.
I do carry two of your type in the pull out drawer above the propane tank. The HD is in the glove box. (what kind of gloves are you supposed to put in there anyway?)
Pierce
I borrowed the duplicate strap wrench from a nice old guy last week when broke down in the vegas desert. It worked. So I bought this one.
Thanks for the heads up
Going to attempt my first DIY oil change on my M11 and my PW 10 generator. Intending to run amsoil 15/40 oil in both. I am also going to install a no spill valve so I don't run into the horror story of stripped threads. Question though...can I put thread paste (rectorsil) blu on the threads when I install the no spill?
Peter
Don't think it would hurt.
It's not necessary as it isn't pipe thread. If the old threads are good just put it in as
they have a gasket or an O ring. If the threads don't look good I would use red or
green Loctite so it would never come out.