Not using motorhome much lately but starting and running every 2 weeks and then all of a sudden will not start, just clicks at starter solenoid. I replaced battery 12.6 volts now and new starter from Hutchinson's in Tampa, I also have 12.6 volts at starter on B terminal. There is another solenoid behind left rear wheel that seems to test thru ok. I am worried that with starter never attempting to engage that engine could be stuck, however I did rotate it a little with a barring tool but seems to be slipping. Help!
Thomas,
Welcome.
Have you checked voltage at the starter when someone turns the key to try to start it?
No uncommon for a bad connection at battery or chassis ground end to cause a significant voltage drop under load, but shows good voltage when no load.
No, I have no one to do that. What sound would be made if starter was engaging and could not turn if engine is seized and if someone did turn key as I monitor voltage at starter, would it be low when he turned key?
Since you were able to turn the engine over by hand, and you have replaced the battery and starter, a poor connection (particularly at the ground/negative end is where I would start.
You are correct, a locked motor would also cause a significant voltage drop when the starter is engaged, but that kind of failure is extremely rare and certainly not at the top of the list.
Sure, check the engine coolant for oil and oil for coolant, because they are easy, but catastrophic engine failure is not at the top of the list.
If you need a hand, there are some other Foretravel owners in the Tampa area. Just hoover over "Community" and then "Member Map".
Thank you Brett, I think I was wanting to hear you say that. One last thing was I had heard of some sort of hydraulic lockup that could happen and also thought of air compressor on engine. Otherwise I had taken serpentine belt off to rule out other components. Again thank you, I value your opinion on these things. All this being said I will focus on the wiring and testing you recommend.
Ya, as long as you can turn the engine over by hand, a locked engine would not be the likely suspect.
Let us know after you remove and clean the chassis end of the ground/negative cable and check connections at the battery. Sometimes a wire can look good, but instead of clean copper, it can be a pile of green copper oxide. Not good for conducting electricity.
Thomas I live in Riverview and used to work for Foretravel as a technician. Let me know if I can give you a hand. I doubt that it is to serious. 813-215-3463
Pull all start battery connections and clean them. Check voltage at start batteries when someone tries to start. Still no joy, try jumpers from another vehicle at the start battery. Two weeks sitting can cause enough corrosion so it won't supply enough juice to the starter. Is battery cable connection at the starter nice and clean? Check ground cable.
Pierce
I am going over on Tuesday to help get it going.
Ron,
You might want to show him one of the other unique things about the U225-- Torsilastic suspension and how ride height is checked/adjusted.
32-33 inches from the top of the wheel well behind each wheel position to the ground (yes, coach on flat ground and jacks stowed).
Common for it to be really low and damage U joints, shocks, etc.
Removing one of the 1/4" shims from in front of and behind a wheel position RAISES the ride height 1/4".
If questions on this, probably best to start a new thread.
Would it be practical to make a short video showing where to connect a remote start switch? As long as you're there?
It's a rare occasion when I want someone around while I'm working and a remote start switch is more controllable for me than a screw driver or piece of wire. And less frustrating than yelling "Try and start it now!"
Brette I am familiar with removing shims to raise the coach. I had an extra deep socket just for that job.
I hook up my remote at the solenoid that is on the starter.
But Thomas Thompson doesn't know about this little trick.
He will tomorrow when I go help him.
I went over this afternoon, hooked up my remote start switch and the engine turned over. Tommy went inside turned the key and she started right up. He told me that he had cleaned all the battery connections. While there I checked the boost solenoid and it is working fine. Always a great day to see another Foretravel run.
But no one listens when you tell them to clean and double clean all the battery terminals. Just can't be the problem. But it usually is.
I hear people say they never turn the engine off when fueling. Afraid it won't start. Hey, keep the terminals clean and stop depending on the boost solenoid. >:D >:D >:D
Pierce
I am thankful that he had already done that. It made my job very easy.
I want to thank Ron aka Red Tractor for coming over to my house and helping solve my problem, he made it all look so easy and is such a nice gentleman, if there is any way I can help him in the future, I will. Thanks to the forum and Brett also.
I found on my 91 that The main solonoid in front under the dash was just grounded on its base using the 2 screws that screw into the wood. The wire was under the mount plate sandwiched between the wood and the metal. The screws loosen by vibration and ground was intermittent . Once I discovered this I ran a proper ground from mount bolts to ground bus under dash. No more issues
You could have been in Nacogdoches and not had better help. Good for you.