Just went thru a conversion/replacement chart for the Leece Neville alternator A0012670LC. (130Amp)
The replacement Delco Remy alternator is a 160Amp Part #8600310 24SI
How did you do it?
Any special modification you have to make?
I found the Delco Remy cross reference list and put in my LN part number.
Supposed to be an "exact" replacement, right down to fitting in the same frame mount and requiring that the pulleys come from the LN alternator. Three wires: 12V hot, ground, and sense wire.
Instructions come with the unit. Did I get one yet? NO. I am merely passing on what I found so anyone having problems with their old LN can replace it with a Delco Remy.
As posted previously, the Delco's are not drop in replacements for the LN alternators when used with a diode isolator. Here are my previous posts with the Delco bulletin and isolator recommendations.
DelcoRemy 28SI alternator (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=30873.msg269451#msg269451)
Leece Neville Alternator went---again (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40010.msg395764#msg395764)
I would add to Nitehawk's post - while the 24SI and 28SI are great replacements - like the LN they also have brushes. It seems this is what eventually causes most alternator problems.
Speaking from experience because I have used one - consider going up to the 40SI. This is a brushless alternator and very reliable. Beware of imitation Delco "equivalent" models made in China. If the price is half of a genuine Delco that is a clue.
If I read the specs for the 40SI correctly 240 amp is the SMALLEST of the series.
Not sure I would go that route. Both $$$, HP drain and a real jolt into the battery banks. Whole charging system and wiring would need to be upgraded to handle that.
If my dim memory is still ok are not all the Foretravels equipped with adjustable voltage alternators?
Something about not overcharging the battery banks on long drives in hot weather?
Seems they did that for a reason?
Brett, I agree, good points. The 40SI is for someone who wants to step up to the next level of performance and capability for their coach.
On my 91 U300 the stock 12 volt system was state-of-the-art in 1991 but was outdated and had no reserve capacity. I upgraded the alternator, wiring, isolator and inverter to be able to run one roof AC while driving.
I know others have gone with the 40SI to support high capacity battery upgrades.
Upgrading is something I enjoy doing, but not everyone wants or needs to do this.
The problem I have with the Roadtrek is it's too perfect, not finding anything to modify yet...
Bob, our '89 GV with the Leece Neville had/has a fixed regulator.
Actually you should charge a Lithium battery bank at 20% of capacity or less to maximize cycles. I went to a 240 amp 40si when I had more than 1500 amp hrs of AGM batteries. With 600 amphrs of LiFePO4 batteries now they get charged at 60 amps max using a smart Battery tomBattery charger. With solar there is very few times when much charging from the alternator is needed anyway.
I swear I had a lot of coaches that had adjustable ones back then because I personally adjusted many coaches alternator
A. Our coach wouldn't/ doesn't have the room for a bunch of batteries.
B. Will not use our coach in such a manner that needs that much energy and storage capacity.
C. Can't see spending $$ for something we don't need, won't use, and can't afford.
D. Due to medical issues, our ages, Covid-19 and meds expenses one might say the time to part with our coach seems to be on the horizon.
E Recouping expenditures when we sell would not occur with the DD 8.2L engine that everyone here seems to deride and dislike.
Yes, the original LN alternator on my coach had an adjustable regulator. The newer LN I replaced it with did not.
Yes my replacement is not adjustable either
I may reinstall my rebuilt adjustable one because of it.
I replaced my LN several years ago, it has an adjustable voltage regulator.
You purchased the real replacement for the oem LN
If your addressing my post, no. I bought it on Ebay from a seller in Texas. A LN knock off.
I had trouble from the start with my engine batteries draining. The alternator was always warm. I thought it was the sense wire.
I took the voltage regulator off and found the wiring was contacting the alternator housing and shorting out. I fixed that issue and it has been fine since .
I learned my lesson with alternator knock-offs. I ordered a Delco 28si "Delco type replacement" off eBay. It "worked" but when I was load testing it- the voltage would drop and it ran very hot, too hot to touch. I ordered another genuine Delco, and when I had them side by side on the bench, the stator wiring visible through the housing was noticeably smaller than the wire diameter of the genuine Delco. With the same load testing the genuine Delco would get warm, but not too hot to touch.