Ok. So you all agree it's going to start leaking. Where can you buy a rebuilt or should I jus have mine rebuilt locally. Not leaking yet. Sounds like a good winter project
Two different things: resealing vs blueprinting.
We KNOW that RedHead Steering Gears - Manual & Power Steering Gear Box (http://redheadsteeringgears.com/) blueprints to remove play.
If there are others who do this, would like to know, as that is a very different job than just resealing.
If you have time, remove yours, send to Redhead in Auburn WA and have them do the rebuild and return. ($500 or $600?) If you are in a hurry Redhead can send a rebuilt unit, charge you a core fee that you get refunded when you return the core. This is more costly route than the first approach by about $200.00 due to the way they price.
Others reseal the units when they rebuild, Redhead tries to eliminate as much "play" in gearbox as possible in their blueprint process.
Tim, do you know if the rebuilt units FOT installs come from there? Not sure how a owner would R&R. Looked to be a three-man job at FOT. They are VERY heavy and it terribly awkward to get to.
Larry
FOT gets well over $1000 for their rebuilt units. I can go look at my invoice if someone needs the exact amount.
Larry
Reman Sheppard m100 Cost me $ 1687.16 repair shop said they sent it to the manufacturer I believe it was to Foretravel job done in Florida on vacation let's go on trip plus labour to R&R and Freight was out of couch for over a week cost over $3000.00 with changing hydraulic oil and filters it was a 12 hour job at $100 hr I was stuck on the road
I emailed Redhead and will post the prices next week
Thanks
Rick that hurts
Scott
Tell me about it specially when you're on vacation took a big chunk out of the budget We were 2400 miles away from home at the time and are first trip just bought it in December and this was at the end of January our first trip south but I just loved the coach anf the drive
Maybe I misunderstood a previous post, but FOT does NOT rebuild the box. It's an R&R job for them.
I did mine by myself as have many others. It would be nice to have assistance but not required if you think out the process.
Dan, read Barry &Cindys post on his Redhead exchange. Two weeks ago or so.
Dan, does this answer some of your questions?
It is the link Richard was referring to:
Shepard Steering Gear Leak - Barry & Cindy's turn (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=39934.msg394633#msg394633)
We just replaced our steering gear last month.
Everything Barry & Cindy paid to have done is 50-50, you do it or they do it. When it comes to separating the pitman arm from the steering box time is your friend. Time to find a couple of greased washer to take up the extra space between the aftermarket pitman arm puller. and time to allow the force to spread. That pitman arm has been in place for several decades and is stretched around the steering box's output shaft. Once the removal force has been applied it's just a matter of waiting and re-applying force as the pitman arm begins to move.
FWIW, I had a '26 Ford T Speedster and the rear brake drums on that chassis are fit to the axle shafts with shallow tapers. Using the correct puller, I would apply force and go do something else. The clang when the brake drum hit the garage wall told me it had come free.
You'll know the pitman arm is moving when you can apply more force by turning the screw. At $100/HR the technician doesn't have time to wait. If you're retired there's always something else to do.
Have'nt had to do ours yet but when we do in my opinion the way to get the best possible quality is to send yours to redhead and
have them send it back,I will probably have a helper or 2
Question,for those of you that have done this was wondering if a transmission jack would work,that seems to be the hardest part of the job,manhandling when it comes loose.
John, every model is different, a trans. jack would not have reached on my coach and going out the box under the driver's seat was the easy way for me. I drove up on blocks to allow me clearance to work under the coach and have the weight of the wheels on the blocks to keep the wheels from turning during the change out. Others have trimmed metal and came straight down and forward with the box. A trans. jack cribbed properly would work in that method.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed and hedging my bets with the Lucas stop leak product as a preemptive action.
jor
Lucas Stop Leak (http://Ok. So you all agree it's going to start leaking.)
Is there a way to tell if the steering box has been rebuilt without having the receipt? I would assume some new owners have coaches that have rebuilt units. I'm all for preventive maintenance in order to reduce chance of a break down however I wouldn't be as concerned if I knew it had already been done.
Ours was replaced by the PO. I have no idea of who did the work (Virtually no service records). If the box was rebuilt by Sheppard it should look like this.
Greg
Can you drain the box and replace fluid and add Lucas stop leak ? What fluid does it use
The hydraulic oil circulates through the box. The Lucas would be added to the hydraulic tank if used. Same as engine oil 15/40
I had Lucas in mine to slow a seeping leak from the pump seal until it was convenient for me to have that seal replaced several years ago. I was literally on my way to MOT a few months ago to have the steering gear sent to Redhead for a preventive maintenance rebuild when it started leaking an hour outside of Nac. It's only a matter of time, even with Lucas in the system, before yours fails. You're much better off doing it on your own terms rather than waiting for the failure to happen on the road.
Greg, Our Red Head rebuilt does not have either label.
The posted pictures of these gearboxes seals show the seals dissolving. Brown rubber?
Lucas recommends using their stop leak product at 10% of the system capacity. So if our hydraulic system holds 5 gallons/20 quarts you would need to add 2 quarts of the stop leak. Any less might not do any good and more much isn't always better.
Steve
Yes the top is Red. Top is on bottom and looks like the piston cylinder head.
I replaced my outer seal several months ago when it started leaking and box has been fine since. However, after reading this thread, I am sure it's just a matter of time before its goes bad. Like bdale states above, better to do it on my terms than stuck on the road somewhere.
Ordered a box from RedHead yesterday, and have an appointment at Nacogdoches Motorhome Service for the install. have seen all the good comments about NMS and after talking with them, feel confident they will do a good job. Gonna get a full check up on the drivetrain, brakes, and air system while we're there.
If rebuilt by Readhead Steering it should look like this.
Our was rebuilt by the OEM, Sheppard. Apparently, others who professionally rebuild have other ways of identifying their work.
Regarding the seals giving up, all seals will eventually fail. Even a NOS seal that's been on the shelf for many years will likely not last as long in service as an identical one of recent manufacture. This is typical of most "rubber" products.
Greg