So last month while we were picking up our coach in Arkansas I thought the right rear was dragging. Talked about it in "Wanted dead or alive" Pyrometer showed it was hotter than the rest. We had to go 120 miles for tires so I cycled braked a bunch of time fully and had my son monitor it for dragging after every brake application. Never exceeded 35 mph. At tire shop found right rear outbound brake pad worn down to 1/16 of a inch. Sprayed brake caliper pins with spray lube and struck with tire hammer. (Desperate times) Installed tires but was unable to find brake pads for our trip to Southern Nevada. Heavily used retarder and monitored for dragging. Didn't hang up again to my knowledge. So today pulled wheels and cleaned, inspected for damage. None found, but there was very little life left. Rotor untouched. Followed service directions in overhaul manual and installed helper springs. 7 out of 8 pads look to be near new although ive only done the one wheel. Will finish in coming weeks. At least the problem child has been taken care of.
Scott
Picture
Check Ebay, I got all the brake pads for less than 200 bucks shipped.
iPad overheated being outside
New pads on left old on right. 1/10 of a inch wear on the inside worn pad. Very little.
Bruce that is a great price. OEM ?
Be sure they used clay based grease and bleed the caliper. springs are a great idea
They would be me. Yes. Followed overhaul manual recommend practices. Hard to find good help
We had similar experience with rr brake and our pad resembled yours. I had much more difficulty with changing them out due to the slide pins being frozen in place. We tried slide hammer to pull then a pneumatic hammer and we only managed to mushroom the end of the pin. Eventually, we had to cut the bolts out. I was fortunate in that I knew a fire department mechanic who was able to help me with the job. I replaced the adjacent shock absorbers while the wheels were off.
Yes OEM, they where packed as one wheel set so had to order 4. Keep searching Ebay you may find a deal
Sven. Wow that would be a challenge. I've used a product called mouse milk penetrating oil. First learned about if changing turbochargers with 2000 hours on them and baked together. Back in the early eighties. (Cessna 402s). IMO nothing compaires and I think I've tried everything.
Amazon.com : Mouse Milk Oil 8oz Bottle : Everything Else (https://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Milk-Oil-8oz-Bottle/dp/B019G667HI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=16K1GHLBIUWKE&dchild=1&keywords=mouse+milk+oil+penetrating+oil&qid=1597771907&sprefix=Mouse+milk%2Caps%2C244&sr=8-2)
Spray, cycle thru several heat cycles if possible. Propane torch and freeze spray. Caution not too hot. Reapply oil when hot. Cooling it pulls it in. Leave a puller made out of a bolt threaded into pin and washers/tube to clear pin. Under tension. Never failed me yet in 40+ years. The moment it moves you have got it. More oil and go opposite direction and repeat till it is free. Made a career out of removing stuff other people couldn't. Yes impacting it wakes it up, but don't want to damage anything.
Bruce I recall paying $340 pair from Napa using discount. Basically same thing only different.
Scott
Scott, have you tried the 50/50 mixture of trans fluid and acetone? web search shows it to outperform all commercial products.
Brake pads are available with different hardness, where soft provides more braking power and faster wear.
The brake pads were newly replaced when I bought my 96 U320 in 2010. After 45,000 miles I noticed that the pads on three wheels were half worn while the pads on the passenger rear were almost worn out. When being replaced it was noted that nothing was seized, however, the worn out pads were softer than the new replacement pads, and softer than the half worn pads for the other three brakes.
Perhaps that worn pad in the picture was a softee, while the other pad was hard. Try to scrape both pads with a screw driver to see if you can detect a difference.
I remove, inspect, and replace (if necessary) the caliber rods when replacing the tires and have not had a stuck caliber rod since doing this. Meritor instructions indicate that the caliber rods must be dry, not lubricated.
Scott, I neglected to mention that we tried penetrating oil over several days and did heat it with MAP, to no avail. I've never heard of Mouse Milk Oil - how could something with that name not work? ;D
We are aware of the no-lub on brake slide pins. But we spray slide pins with CorrosionX, then wipe it off.
Remove & clean slide pins every 4 years or so, and at same time lube & purge brake caliper & self adjustors.
Page 40 18a lube pin with wd40 or CRC
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I'm pretty sure that having the one pad worn out and the other seven out of eight pads in near new condition suggests the caliper was hanging up. Pins were dirty. In the photo I showed it showed two used pads and comparison new pads. No history for me but knowing the coach only has 53k Miles. I'm assuming this was a problem before I showed up on the seen. I genuinely think being exposed to road dirt cleaning every four years is a good starting point. I did use anti seize in the lock bolt cavity. I think the helper springs would help the caliper retract to help prevent that outside pad from dragging excessively. At the tire change time it was a difficult decision to drive home but once apart I'm glad I did. Worn as bad as it was I'm really glad it's changed out. Glad it didn't damage rotor. Was over 110 deg when I finished up. Too hot to be torquing lug nuts.
Scott
I just put brakes on my coach in March. Been 8 or 10 years. The left rear outside was about gone, all others about 50%. Nothing sticking, had helper springs, all pins came out by hand all where fairly clean. I wore the same pad out last time. Hey ever 10 years I can deal with that.