8.3 Cummins Mechanical
Has anyone replaced their coolant & transmission temp gauges? I find the stock gauges are hard to see and these are the two that I monitor closely in mountain driving. I was thinking about adding a couple more gauges like the two in the photo (in the same location). Anyhow, do you just use the same sender location and disable the dash gauges? Thanks.
jor
Most gauges have to have the matching sender. Usually sold together. The difference in a few ohms would throw it off.
Sure. However, I am wondering about an alternate location so both gauges will work. Just curious if anyone else has done so.
jor
I understand how important they are, but I found them not only unreadable (especially under way) but inaccurate as well. I would never go on a trip without the Silverleaf.
If you are just going to use the original wires and the new gauges and senders, that would work fine. leaving the old gauges in the dash for cosmetic purposes.
Mechanical motor no silverleaf
Just know that that molding is the wire tray for wires going from the dash area to overhead compartments, so adding more gauges in that location will complicate future electrical service in that area.
Yea, thanks. I'm aware of that. Been in there several times. I always label new wiring and document the change for the next guy.
Sounds like no one has done what I am considering. I think I'll just do as craneman suggested and install my new senders in place of the old ones. I may have two extras left that I can use or I'll just run new wires. Thanks to all.
jor
John, are you just looking for twin gauge housing? We put something like this on top of our tilting curved dash cover:
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Barry
No. I was not clear in my wording. My question concerned only the gauges themselves. I plan on using the same housings as in my photo. I will just have a stack of four instead of two. Still have good view of my convex mirror.
I was just looking for advice on adding temp gauges. My preference would be to add the two gauges and leave the two dash gauges operational. Haven't heard from anyone who has done that so I'll probably just install new gauges and have non-operational dash gauges.
jor
I would think you could install a tee in the engine block to accommodate the two different temp sending units. I am not sure how the trans temp sender is arranged but maybe the same there?
Mike
Jor. I'm hoping that you find a way to add the additional gages and keep ALL of them operational cause that's the way I would prefer to do it. Wouldn't be the first thing in the coach to have redundancy.
OP here. I added coolant and trans temp gauges. I tried but was unsuccessful in retaining the functionality of the old gauges. Initially, I installed a T at both sensor locations. They all worked but the OEM gauges read low. I ended up using the new sensors only in the original sensor locations. Good to go.
Gotta say. Buying a VMS is a lot easier!
jor
You think you were an engineer or something. Nice way to get the needed data
Quoting myself here. I plumbed the after market gauge with the OEM but was 7 degrees off. Set it up differently and got close at 3 degrees. Finally (slapping forehead) I installed an inline gizmo so the new sender would be in the coolant flow. Now I have the OEM and my add-on. This is the way to go. I don't know why this never occurred to me. I think we can attribute it to tunnel vision.
jor
What wiring did you use to get signal up to the front ?? I thought that was half the battle?
I pulled new wires for this gauge and my transmission temp and used extras for the pyro and boost.
jor
So I'm assuming that your using the new gages with new or existing unused wire. And the oem gages are still operational with oem wire.
Sorry to be so dense on this.
It's like the Army. You put the laziest guy in the hardest job, and he's going to find the easiest way.
Wires: I wasn't clear in my description. I wanted to add the coolant and transmission temperature gauges because I find the dash gauges difficult to see and also, due to their design, also difficult to determine exact readings. I had used up my OEM extra wires already so I pulled new wires for these two gauges.
Coolant Gauge: My original post above shows the new sensor installed in-line in the heater hose which comes right off the block where the factory sensor is located. Both work.
Transmission Gauge: I tried using both the OEM and new sensors together by "T"ing them but then both gave me low temp readings. I ended up replacing the OEM sensor with the sensor for my new gauge. The OEM gauge now is deader than a door nail.
This thread is only useful to those of us with mechanical engines so 1998 and newer 8.3s and at least 1995 and newer M11 owners can just simply plug into their data port and get these and many other data.
jor
Thanks James for clearing that up for me.