So finally got to performing a proper oil change. Liked both of Pierces ideas of Vacuum drain plug change and draining the oil filter. So I had tried the oil filter drain on my 5.9l Cummins in my truck last week. It's a lot tighter area and well the drain hole diverted over to the tie rod and dispersed the drain oil nicely. The ISM filter is wide open. Worked perfect! I was concerned about that 1-1/4 drain plug into a aluminum pan with fine threads. Spider sense was correct. All I could do to loosen with a long combination wrench. Way over the recommended torque. 65 ftlbs+ Using the vacuum not a drop was dripped. Had to wrench the drain plug almost all the way out. Not good. Cleaned the area. Visually inspected for pulled threads and installed the EZ203 drain valve. Torqued to 45 ftlbs. I have struggled with using it because of how far it sticks down. However it's 3-4 inches higher than the transmission which is 3-4 inches higher than the differential. But Murphy always find the weak link. Forward of the pan oil drain is a 4x5 1/4" steel plate on the bellhousing. There is a 3/4 drain plug in it. After verifying that that is a dry flywheel area I removed the Plate and installed a ramp on it. Although it is a aluminum bellhousing it is quite robust. Ramp and supports are 1/4 steel. This is not for rocks but should protect against a tire carcass or something else you would be forced to drive over in the freeway.
Scott
My service records that came with the coach showed a helicoil being installed long ago on my drain plug.
Last change the shop got it sealed up to not drip, which it used to.
In between I have bought a repaired, welded up and retapped replacement oil pan with a drain valve already installed into it.
Future install
The quick drain I installed in ours sticks down like yours but when I get a chance, I will install a flush quick drain. That way, you can't hit it on anything and break it off. Same price, about $25-$35 or so. Don't overtighten in aluminum!
The steel ramp is a good idea and should protect the quick drain nicely.
Vacuum trick works great! Never even a drop spilled.
Check the compact quick drain here for vehicles with low ground clearance. No-Spill™ Systems Oil Drain Plug – Official Site (https://www.nospillsystems.com/)
Pierce
Yes Pierce. 20/20 hindsight. Will run this since I own it, but would do this differently the second time around.
Scott
Hey, I didn't know about the models that are less exposed when I installed ours. You've done something about it and ours is sticking out ready to get knocked off. Good for you and nice work on the ramp.
I ordered one for our ML320 and attached the vacuum cleaner. I had to pull on the old plug to get it out and then it was working perfectly until I tried to install the quick drain. They sent me the wrong size (too small) so it sucked the whole thing in but glad I didn't turn off the vacuum cleaner. I had to put the OEM plug back in.
Now I've lost at least $25 and will take that out of Gaylie's book club purchases. :))
Pierce
A little late to the this posting, but wanted others to know our "Compact" style of No-Spill™ Systems Oil Drain Plug – Official Site (http://www.nospillsystems.com/) hangs down less with a smooth flat end surface.
On the other point, everyone with a M11 aluminum oil pan needs to do something/anything, as even with 'proper' torque, the steel drain plug may eventually disable a vehicle from a drain plug not holding. This was the experience of a Motorcade mechanic traveling with us after changing his oil in an Oregon campground. For sure John always torqued drain plug, but this time, threads came out and he was dead in the water.
BTW, our oil drains slower with our NoSpillSystem, than with our OEM drain plug. FYI, our Cummins C8.3 has a steel drain pan.
Another similar manufacturer is Stahibus and this is a description from their web site (similar valve to NoSpillSystem ):
Unlike competitive oil drain valves, Stahlbus oil drain valves do not have a lever-operated ball valve. The absence of a lever allows for a much smaller valve design compared to competing products. The Stahlbus drain valve is just slightly larger than the standard oil drain plug. The smaller symmetrical shape of the Stahlbus valve allows it to be installed without an additional adapter frequently required by the more bulky lever-operated valves.
I looks like Stalibus doesn't have the sizes for RV's I will get the no spill but, it annoys me they don't include the adaptor to drain the valve in the kit, you have to buy it separately. I have looked for a competitor with like dimensions and there doesn't seem to be any competition which would probably lower the cost.
Craneman,
On your 1999 M-11 engine, what diameter and thread pitch is needed for the plug?
Richard
Take a look at Fumoto oil drains.
That is the one I bought but after seeing a post of a picture of one busted off, it sits in my spare parts drawer
DSD's skid ramp to protect the quick drain looks pretty easy to make if you have a welder. The nice thing about quick drains is that you can fill a gallon container, stop and then fill another without spilling a drop. Make a mistake with a regular drain plug and you have a huge mess. I like the drains where you can push a plastic hose on and don't have to drain directly below.
The aluminum oil pan without a steel insert for the plug was not a good design. Might carry a rubber expanding plug just in case you pull the aluminum threads on an oil change.
Piece
That is a great idea. I will get an appropriate size plug as well as a quick-drain.
Richard
RE: "Might carry a rubber expanding plug just in case"
Friend John bought a 'high temp rubber expanding drain plug with metal part that fits inside the pan (like a toggle bolt) to get him out of his 'dead in the water' M11 stripped drain plug situation.
The rubber plug got him driving, but after a while the very hot oil ruined the rubber part and oil started draining while driving. He then found a local shop to insert a Cummins insert that worked but was not a perfect solution for John. When he got home to Oklahoma, he dropped oil pan and found a skilled welder to weld a metal drain plug repair inside the aluminum oil pan.
Not sure how it was welded as only aluminum can be welded to aluminum.
With exceptions....
https://www.esabna.com/us/en/education/blog/can-i-weld-aluminum-to-steel.cfm
Bet the welder just built up the aluminum if severely damaged and then tapped it, installed a coil like one of these. https://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html Steel threads are at least 3x stronger than aluminum. Several ways to do it. Could also weld a very short piece of aluminum pipe and then tap it.
Pierce
We called them help-coils that was a brand name we used a lot in industry --I didn't like them then and still don't like them.-- they are fine in an emergency but with repeated usage they will come out and make a bigger problem than you had before. If possible (and I realize that 1"-18 thread is a big hole)and there was enough thread left I would put in a metal insert with non removable locktite
then go to a 3/4 plug for drain
Just my thought
Chris
Timesert. Production used by gm and Chrysler
As you need a kit that's prohibitively expensive.
The spare pan I bought had been rewelded in the seal area and retapped then a drain valve installed
I'm happy with the torque and won't be removing. I probably could come up with the correct helicoil. I have installed hundreds of them with good long therm results. Yes many different was to resolve damaged threads. Have also made step plugs with greats results. Already forgot about that fire. Many more to deal with on the list. 110 deg doesn't help.
Scott
The inserts I used made by Caterpillar, doing heavy equipment repair goes from 12-24 to 1 1/2" bolts. They never pull out but I don't remember what I paid for the kit as it was about 40 years ago.
My oil pan has been helicoiled previously in its service records. Dripped a bit.
So in saying that my original drain plug had no gasket or seal. The ez203 is made with a oring seal. I have no clue if there should be a factory seal on the factory plug. Area was oil contaminated and dirty. Probably last oil change was in 2007? but I didn't notice any hanging drips.
Scott
I do not like the fact that I have lost the factory oil wetted magnet. Mileage was unknown since last change, I suspect low, but it was completely spotless
Scott
So the oil drain on the side of the oil pan has a Allen head. Is it the same pitch as the lower one?
Scott
Mine has a copper washer on the drain plug.
I just installed the compact drain plug and then torgue to the required spec on the plug container. It installed nicely and hopefully will eliminate the need to pull out and retighten the main plug over and over. Time will tell....
Instructions
Chuck I see they say to torque to there recommended torque, what was that amount?
Thanks Scott
I went on line to order the No-Spill plug. Since I am still here in Hawaii I thought I would just have it shipped here and I would carry it in my luggage back to the coach. Unfortunately, when I put in the Hawaii shipping address the shipping cost went from $18 to $85. So I guess I will wait to order mine until I get back to the mainland.
Richard
The torgue for my plug was 50 foot lbs. The new compact plug came with new copper washer and was a perfect match for my M11 oil pan threads.
Chuck since the median income in the US went from 12K to 62K just say you got in cheap, and it would cost a lot now.... lol.
Scott, did you use the original plate? If so what did you do about the drain hole/plug? Weld it up? I like your idea and I'm thinking I might truTV get one made..
I know this thread is 2 years old but I'm hoping you can remember what you did...
Keith
I left the plug assessable. Used if troubleshooting oil leaks in bellhousing. Yes original plate. There was zero fluids under mine. Outside hole shouldn't matter. Ive done oil change since installation and it works nice. Skid plates and bumpers are always your friend in my world.
Scott