When a faucet is turned on water comes out for a brief period (water pressure in the water line), then there is no water for a few seconds, then the pump kicks in and water comes out normally. Any ideas why the pump acts in this manner? We do not have an accumulator. This pump is the same as the one it replaced. The old pump didn't act in this manner. The old pump was replaced when the water pump bay was flooded and the circuit board was standing in about an inch of water. The current pump provides plenty of water pressure, but it takes a few seconds to start itself.
Sounds like a sticky pressure switch in the new pump.
Could it be your accumulator tank is shot? Just an idea
He said they do not have an accumulater
Johnh
Any idea how to adjust the water pump pressure switch?
SHURflo Smart Sensor 5.7 was a very popular pump and is their most problematic model ever made. No longer available ( for several years ). Their first attempt at electronic variable speed pump to handle low water flows. Circuit board is the problem. It seems that every 5.7 will fail at some point. Failure symptoms vary until pump gets very hot and will not run at all.
BTW, a dysfunctional 5.7 is a great aux pump by bypassing board 12v positive as pressure switch still works ok. If you have the flooded 5.7, you can easily get it to run as a fixed output pump.
4048 & 4008 with their internal spring-loaded bypass is their most trouble-free & best pump and replaces the 5.7. For years Shurflo would do a free exchange for 5.7, option no longer available.
We've owned both brands of the variable speed pumps: Shurflo, and Flotec. (the Flotec was also sold under a different brand name that doesn't come to mind) Both will fail; typically, the Shurflow will just stop running, and the Flotec will not stop running. Both of these pumps use a pressure transducer to detect water pressure, and it can't be adjusted. "No user serviceable parts inside" Too bad, since this is an excellent idea. Unfortunately, both were poorly executed.
Recently installed a 4048 with an accumulator and our teeth no longer rattle when the pump is running. I adjusted the bypass pressure to negate that feature, since it's not needed with an accumulator.
Greg
I still have the old pump that had it's circuit board flooded. Never throw anything away unless I know it's completely useless. I had planned sometime in the future to disconnect the circuit board and put 12VDC power directly to the pump to see if there was any life in it. If so I have a backup and if not the pump would go to recycling. BTW the current pump which was acting up has decided to act more normal. On to other issues. The toilet press button has decided to act up. Really it's been a problem for quite a while now but it's getting worse. Push the button and only water is injected into the bowl. Do this several times until the bowl is half full. Reach behind the toilet and turn a racheted knob and then press the button hard and toilet then flushes. This fix usually last through three or four flushes and then it's repeat the drill of reaching behind the toilet. Replacing the electric button looks like it will require pulling the toilet.