Hello everyone, it's been awhile since I've been on here ( transplant and other medical) I have a 1996 U295 and I bought it before my medical problems so it has been sitting for a year and a half although it has been up to op temperature every month but my leveling system won't light up and won't respond, the bags air up to travel and when I shut it off it airs down on one side and it fully inflates on the other, anyone have any ideas how I should proceed
Welcome back! Hope the replacement parts are working well.
I would suggest you try running the trouble shooting steps in the Owners Manual. You probably have the 600 series system. The manual is linked below. Follow the trouble shooting steps exactly as written! Do not skip any steps, and do not jump around.
Let us know what result you get.
http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml11148.pdf
I really appreciate the information I'll certainly try it out, I didn't get any Manuel's, the guy I bought it from kept them for another Foretravel he bought at auction.
You may already be aware, but just in case, the Forum Library has quite a few reference items that may be helpful. Also, you can call the factory parts counter and ask about the availability of digital copies of the specific manuals for your coach. I don't know what they currently charge, but they would be happy to give you that info.
Forum Library: https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=165
FOT Parts Dept: FORETRAVEL (https://foretravel.com/parts-department)
Note: If you call the factory parts dept. it is helpful to have your coach build number handy. Makes it much easier for them to help you with any request. Your build number is the 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th digits in the "model number" on the metal tag next to driver seat. See example below:
Have you checked the fuses in the HWH computer?
The obvious thing to do is to unplug and plug back in all of the multi pin connectors beginning at the control head, followed by the control box. With a little luck that might eliminate a lack of signal to and from the outside world. Next place I'd try is the level sensor plug before braking out the manual and running through the trouble shooting procedure. After trying what I suggest, if you have to begin trouble shooting you'll already be familiar with the main components of command and control and will be able to concentrate on the tests.
In case you couldn't find the manual in the library, here it is. Like Chuck said, the Troubleshooting section is great.
jor
Thankfully we were 2 miles from home when this happened...🙏🏻...I heard a pop and a few seconds later another strange whine and a tire mark on the pavement behind me. I assumed a tire blew on the Jeep. I pulled off of the 2 lane as best I could. All tires on the MH and toad good. The RH aft air bags were deflated and the noise was the duals rubbing the body heating the tires up enough to leave a stripe on the pavement. I could manually air up the suspension with the park brake set but soon after the park brake was released and travel mode engaged the right aft would loose pressure again and the tires would rub. We made it to a side road where I could troubleshoot without worrying about traffic. I remembered I had a couple of suspension blocks in the basement. Blocked up the right rear and limped home. Today I raised up the coach to max height and left it that way. 6 hours later still up. Air system has no audible leaks. The compressor kicks off at 120 psi and stays there with "normal" slow leak down. When travel mode is selected air is exhausted from the front ride height valve as the right rear air bags totally deflate and the right front airbags mostly deflate but still remain firm to the touch unlike the rear which are soft. I do have inter granular corrosion near the top ports of the 6 pack manifold but no air leakage by feel or sound. This was an "explosive" failure so I'm not hunting a seep or slow leak. This should be a heinous air leak but so far I have not found it other than the front ride height valve. I will print off the HWH schematic tomorrow and study as I do much better with paper than my phone for those things. Perhaps an internal failure of the manifold due to corrosion? Why else would right rear air exhaust from the front ride height valve? Again...if I print and trace the system it makes more sense to my simple brain. The hunt continues and I will report my findings.
Mike have you checked your ride height valves.
Scott
Sounds like you have a travel solenoid not working on the rear six pack, the one that controls that side. It will be one of the "top" ones on the manifold....more than likely the coil is shot and not pulling the solenoid open, therefore not sending air to the bags on that side in travel mode.
I like your idea of using your blocks to get home. I think I will make up some blocks at ride height.
Can you explain in more detail about how you blocked it , what, where and how did you do it? I have had the thought of how to do that if you were in the middle of nowhere.
Sagre
Had the same thing happen to me except it was the drivers side that deflated. the travel solenoid on that side was bad. Luckily I was on my way to Herman Power Tire in NAC when it happened. Repaired at MOT on a Saturday. Keith happened to be in town that day and said if I could make it to the shop he would try to get it fixed, which he did.
Steve
Sagre this looking forward on the right side. You should place one behind the axle as well the same distance from the air bag. The 6X6 is about 11 1/2" long. I believe there is a thread on here as to the proper length of maintenance blocks. I've been meaning to fab some steel blocks but these were handy (and quick) when I was doing the resonator mod a couple years ago.
Oldguy. I like your idea of a set of "ride height" blocks. I'll be sure to make a set of those when I make the steel version of my maintenance blocks
Why don't you keep one of your old airbags and put it inboard of the low air bag and inflate to say 100 psi and continue on your way till proper repairs can be accomplished. Adjust as Necessary .Cheap adapters available to pressurize with a tire Schrader setup.
[x1] 1/4" NPT MPT Brass Air Compressor Tank Fill Valve Schrader NEW | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/x1-1-4-NPT-MPT-Brass-Air-Compressor-Tank-Fill-Valve-Schrader-NEW/111581590555?hash=item19fac7f41b:g:RQUAAOSwt5hYeZnM)
Thanks for the idea Scott. I have a new airbag for the Monaco I sold that was a spare part. I kept it to use as a air jack around the yard.
Two would make a nice jack too? Light weight
Scott
Another option is to use the leveling system to set ride height then pull the fuse in the HWH box and the coach will stay there with the ignition on and running. I came all the way from S. Carolina to Los Angeles that way.
So you can manually inflate and it will hold. All valves closed. When you select travel mode the travel solenoids open allowing air level to be regulated thru ride height valves. Three valves. One up front controls matching air pressure to all front bags. One left rear and one right rear. If your coach drops right low you have deleted front and left rear ride height systems. You have isolated to the Right ride height control system. Could be a bad ride height control valve or lines. If solenoid is failed closed it will not adjust up or down. Sounds to Me because it drops from full up solenoid is working but control circuit failed. Lines or ride height valve.
CAUTION operating the coach using blocks holding it at a similar ride height although drivable can easily over stress what the design limits were when built. Damage may result. I would NEVER operate with maintenance blocks in place in rear. Having one corner of the coach blocked up will exceed limits. This is way above drive height level. And the remaining level valves will be constantly trying to correct rather than being in balance. Broken windshields and structure damage may result. Twisting. If ride height blocks are being used understand that there is zero movement in the suspension at that location. Tires are your only airbag. Very easy to overload axles and tires if you drive thru anything. It is constantly bottomed out. If one Rear corner is blocked up at ride height the other two ride height valve still will operate if at similar heights as block. IMO.
Scott
My right rear was only going to about 7" ride height on the last trip. You could hear and feel air exiting through the six pac exhaust port continuously. Red Tractor removed solenoid and plunger and cleaned it up and all things were back to normal. The dreaded white powder had gummed it up, just a tiny spec had stopped the plunger from sealing the port.
For others-- that "dreaded white powder" is the desiccant from a failed air dryer. Neglect air dryer service/replacement and this CAN happen.
Yes I have changed the dyer with a new one.
I totally agree Scott. I would never "operate" with blocks installed. I'm talking about limping along at 5 mph to the next exit or in my case the last mile of country road before my driveway. Wasn't ideal but any port in a storm kind of thing.
Theone where art thou?
I wait with bated breath for a response from the OP....while watching this thread wobble off the track.