I removed my tanks to do a "lite bulkhead" repair (only the black/gray bay, and a little in fresh bay).
While I had the waste pipe plumbing out, I serviced the bladex valves by replacing the cores. Much smoother operation!
I am ready to reinstall the waste pipes into the black and gray tanks. I note they have some gray colored putty (plumbers putty?) around where the interface with the tank was previously. There was also a large hose clamp around each tank/pipe interface. I have no idea if this is factory or not. It appears this assembly has been previously removed, but I can't be sure.
There is an o-ring recessed in the end of each ABS pipe too.
I have some ABS glue on hand, but wanted to check before deploying it. Something doesn't seem right with that approach.
Thanks all!
The plumbers putty would not be on my approved list. It is usually contained and is just for the seal. Could it of been silicone seal? RTV. A picture would clear up a lot of questions. Will it be subject to movement or removal in the future?
Scott
Butyl rubber sealant would make a flexible water tight seal and be able to remove for future repairs.
Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Butyl-Flex-10-1-oz-White-VOC-Compliant-Gutter-and-Flashing-Sealant-12-Pack-7079827062/205030316
I replaced the black tank on our 300. I bought new connecting seals because I had to destroy the originals to get the tanks out. When I reinstalled, I did not use any sealer. The seals fit nice and tight.
jor
Thanks all - see the picture below.
The gray stuff is kind of gummy like butyl rubber now that you mention it Doug.
Jor - my top vents and inlets went back in without damage. Did you reattach the waste pipes at the base without sealer as well?
Anything permanent is a bad idea, and I deal with the "soft stuff" by not thinking about it and cleaning it off the pipes. You should be able to clean it all up, install new o-rings, slip it in place with a push and a shove, and tighten the clamps to hold everything tight. Test with clean water before you button it all up. I don't see any sense adding sealant to something that shouldn't leak with good o-rings.
On our U-240 when we had it apart I used RectorSeal No. 5 - RectorSeal (https://rectorseal.com/product/rectorseal-no-5/) even though it is pipe dope it worked just fine.
Mike
That's what I get for not reading your post carefully. For the bottom pipes I just used the stuff that was already on them. I think it is butyl. Gummy buy not real sticky. I also used a hose clamp.
jor
For everyone's viewing pleasure, check out photo #3.
jor
Most likely came from the factory with sealant added, too much flex to rely on solely on a small o-ring, use it and forget about it...
jor
What the heck is that?
Glad you asked! It's the flush valve on the toilet. I had the black tank out and felt compelled to take that photo.
jor
We can tell your mind is in the toilet. :)) >:D
Thanks everyone!
I cleaned everything up and put a thin bead of butyl rubber between the faces of the waste pipe and the face of the tank. I think it was likely superfluous though. The combo of the o-ring and hose clamp seemed to really give a good mechanical seal.
I told my son tonight that we are now referring to it as a "dry bay" so we don't have any repeat water damage 😂
I leak checked with 1/3 full black and gray tanks (fresh water of course!), and all is well. Now to put the rest of the wet, err, dry bay together with the new seelevel system.