Had to up my game and order a 3/4 impact and sockets from harbor freight, my old ingersol 1/2 was not going to cut it. When my new toys arrive the plan is to start at the front and jack up the axel then block it with chocks on the rear. Pull the front wheels, R+R the brakes, bearings etc, and the main reason is new shocks.
I'm open to advice and suggestions on shock absorbers for my late 87 build ORED. So please chime in !
When I'm done with that lot and weather permitting it's off for a laser alinement then it's the rearends turn. With no shop anymore I have to play in the driveway.
If you can get the Koni FSD for your model get them,check shock warehouse.
Koni or Bilstein only 2 brands I'd use
Is there something wrong with the bearings? I think what you have is better Quality than what you can buy to replace now.
Scott
If your 3/4" impact does not do the trick, the torque multiplier I bought does a great job with the lug nuts with minimum effort. I did remove the stainless hub cover on the rear duals as you have to remove every other nut to get access to pull the axles if that is ever needed. They are available free for shipping costs only. This is the torque multiplier I purchased Heavy Duty Torque Multiplier Set Wrench Labor Saving Lugnut Remover Case | eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Torque-Multiplier-Set-Wrench-Labor-Saving-Lugnut-Remover-Case/233602690389?hash=item3663ce2d55:g:Qt8AAOSwjdReqXGP) but I found it for $49 delivered on ebay. Tried to find my seller but not listed today.
The threads on the driver's side of the coach may be left hand thread. Instead of trying to look at the threads on the rear wheels to see, check the front wheels where there are more threads visible. Our 1993 U300 has left hand threads on the driver's side.
Neither the nuts nor the face of the stud was marked to tell if left hand threads so. Make sure you have the correct flip socket for the square drive on the inner wheels.
A small stainless moon cap is available if you don't like the bare axle look.
A string or a HF laser on a tripod can be used to check alignment. Shoot the laser from behind the rear wheels so it just about touches the front and rear of the back tires and then with the steering wheel straight ahead check how close the laser is to the front and back of the front tires. For toe in, the laser (string) should touch the rear of the front tire first. Video on YouTube.
Pierce
dsd if I'm gonna go in there that far then I'll check everything that I can.
Pierce thanks for the suggestion on the multiplyer have to see how it goes
Seems like the koni fsd is the way to go after some research
Thanks to all and I'll read some more
Mick
Check with protec racing as he replaced the shocks on his ored.
To get the performance your looking for from the 3/4" air gun you also need a 1/2" ID air hose and fittings along with a air tank with sufficient air storage. If not, you won't get much more out of the 3/4" than the 1/2" gun.
A standard air hose should work just fine as long as it isn't long and you have a large tank with higher PSI (150+). I pulled the lugs and shocks with my Earthquake XT, but I would definitely try with the air gun first. The XT is powerful, but bulky and a trick to get into tight spaces.
Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 Fuel High Torque 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction... (https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2767-20-Torque-2-Inch-Friction/dp/B077H7JP1D/ref=psdc_552820_t1_B07H7CZHYB?th=1)
I don't think it will do what they claim but I did remove nuts just to see if it would. Followed up with torque wrench For install 450ftlbs for my coach. Surprising for a battery tool.
Scott
I have the Fuel Milwahkee I/2 inch drive and it takes my wheel nuts off.
I watched a AAA tow truck driver take my flat tire off our U300 and mount my spare when I was at a funeral. He had a 1/2" SnapOn battery driver. They all came off with one battery andhe put the spare on with a new battery. That was the first time any had been off. He said the battery impact takes any big rig he has ever had a call on.
A little No-Seize on the first few threads and a 4' pipe with bathroom scale and about 360 ft lbs total is what I use now. 20% less with NS.
Pierce
I have the mid torque wrench 1/2 drive
Milwaukee 2860-20 M18 FUEL 1/2" Mid-Torque Impact Wrench with Pin Detent... (https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2860-20-Mid-Torque-Impact-Wrench/dp/B01MZ8VWCI)
It can NOT take my wheel nuts off. I may need to try the torque multiplier mentioned by
@Pierce & Gaylie Stewart
But, back in 2008, the SnapOn battery impact cost $600. For $50, the multiplier is well made and well designed tool. The stainless decorative axle cover in the rear makes it a little awkward but not a deal breaker. As the YouTube video shows, it's easy to use and takes little strength. Probably easy to over torque putting the nuts back on again so I use a breaker bar with a pipe and scale.
Once the nut has been loosened just a little, the HF electric cord impact spins them off and back on again in seconds but still need to be torqued. They make more noise than might be expected.
Pierce
When a FD mechanic was helping me with the rear brakes, he was surprised to see me take the lugs off with my XT. His much more expensive Snap-on could not do it. He made a trip to Harbor Freight the next day.
Snap-on tools are great but pricey,they get you with the weekly payment plan and come to your work site.
My XT impact arrived today and it feels very sturdy, feels like a good tool, so we'll see. Ordered shocks today from O'Reilly and they'll be here on Wednesday. Squirted some PB penetrating oil on the nuts and studs, all the studs were marked with R or L on the appropriate side and the nuts had it spelled out right and left, gotta like that.
Spent hours in my Oshkosh chassis manual where the height adjustment controls are referred to but no info that I can find. So the research will go on.
Thanks to everyone who chimed in, love this forum.