There had been a lot of discussion about the possible benefits of changing out the OEM S-D electronic fan controller for the mechanical wax ring option. I don't recall if anyone posted this info, but it addresses a lot of the questions, some of which have been PM'ed to me. If you click on the first one, it should come up or you may get a bar at the bottom of your screen to click on. It gives the sales pitch for why you should make the conversion. We did it and are pretty satisfied so far.
Noticeable difference.
Sven, are these manufactured by them or are they using a time proven valve that is currently in production by someone else? What was the cost of the kit?
Scott
On my unit the following is printed: Dynamatic Limited UK , type 553109857210, Made in Swindon England. along with a date code. I bought the valve at Source Engineering in Eugene and they referred me to Brian Schack RV Repair up the road in Junction City, OR. The valve cost $725 and the installation was $311. I was told that this conversion required an experienced mechanic/welder and Schack was the only one they could recommend.
It was not a cheap conversion, but I've been told by others on this forum that I would get my money back in fuel savings.
Same basic part that came on our 97. Different temp settings
White House products 211 pounds 270$ us
Thanks Scott
What are your settings? This one is full on at 199 deg.
Were was 185 full on. Thermostat is 180 to 200
Interesting. PN 553/1/09857 is the one I bought. The Dynamatic spec sheet list that number as calibrated to 93C (199.4F); same as the one craneman has.
Would be interesting to see spec sheets for various units with temp curves from closed to full open.
I was referring to the part number Sven listed. I still have the original electronic.
Sorry, I misread your post. O:)
Could someone post pictures were the valve was installed. Both original and kit position would be useful. May vary location, but would like to see what others have done. I'm going to order a valve from the UK manufacturer to use on my coach in the coming weeks. Probably take couple of weeks to ship. Last trip was 4300 miles with fans at 100%.
Scott
Be aware the Sourch Engineering Kit has five (5) items, all of which you will need to install the control. If you order the control unit only, you will need to source the other 4 items.
I recommend the Source Engineering Kit and will purchase one soon as they have stock again.
Scott, the control is installed into the metal tube carrying engine coolant to the top of the engine as seen in the picture in post 1 from Source Engineering. A bung is welded onto the tube and a hole drilled into the tube and the control threaded into the bung. The existing hoses are lengthen with the kit supplied hoses and connected.
Here's a photo of my U320 fan controller in the center of the photo. It is welded to the pipe that goes into the upper Vibraflex (bulging) hose at the rear of the radiator. The smaller, more vertical hose (leading to the upper left corner of photo) with green line attaches to the bottom of the coolant reservoir. The large pipe in the foreground goes to the CAC. Hope that helps to pin point it.
Okay, is this were Foretravel originally installed them? Rudy for $1000 I'll can source the bung and correct hoses without adding cheater hoses. I'd rather see the money go to you for upcoming aqua hot consultation and repairs. May have to work a deal with you. I'm currently thinking inboard of the frame support strap below my coaches current fuel filter may be more convenient, directly forward of the current controller.
Scott
The location I mounted ours did not require new hoses, or extensions. I bought the wax capsule on ebay, and machined the bung from an inexpensive stock ORB fitting. (I couldn't find a bung for sale)
Greg
Greg, very nice installation. I think you have the direction I'll be following.
Scott
Thanks, Scott. IMO, the best benefit of having it there is that it's a snap to get at for the low speed adjustment, should I need to do that.
MisterEd, I second the "very nice installatiion". I do not have the equipment and ability to machine a bung. So Bravo to you Sir.
But you do have many people you have helped over the years willing too help out if you need something. Possibly more powerful than tools and skills? I learned 40 years ago about the sprayed aluminum coating on these waterlines. Still interesting but probably easier to powdercoat. MisterEd I can't imagine the hours of cleaning and painting you have done on your coach, looks like you own a new coach. Very nice.
Scott
I was thinking the same thing. Picture was just a small section of the engine bay, but looks very, very clean and pristine!
Can you post the Product number on the wax valve and explain the Low speed adjustment? I used a needle valve and adjusted it to slow the flow for low speed so thinking maybe I can remove that portion..
That is where mine is, as shown on my photo.
Part number I used is 553109857190. To adjust cold fan speed, with the engine OFF, you remove the #17 silver cap, beneath it is a hex socket adjuster screw #12. Turning it in (clockwise) should reduce flow, increasing cold fan speed. CCW should reduce cold fan speed. The attached drawing was originally posted by Chris. The explanation of the adjuster was a bit vague. I determined it's function by studying the sectional drawing. My conclusion assumes the adjuster has right hand threads. Note that this adjuster will have NO effect on closing temperature, unless it was turned in to the point of the valve never going into bypass. That would negate the reason for having the controller. ;)
NOTE: Put the cap back on after making adjustments (in small increments) or the bypass oil will flow out of the hole, making a mess, or worse?
Greg
I was just out at the coach and had removed the factory control valve and installed a needle valve. Closed is 100% and opened very little dropped to zero fan speed. A 1/4 of a turn the fans stopped. This shows that my system will operate once I install the new valve. I opened up the solenoid to look for something plugging it but was clean. Greg thank you for posting. It has really helped me decide how I want to do this in the coming weeks.
Scott
The oil volume through the controller is to bleed off pressure. The pressure is what pilots the valve on the front fan motor. The way it's made, very little change in volume effects a sizable change in pressure at the pilot.
An FYI for those who may be concerned about IAT getting high when the fans are running slow, Blue Bird used a thermo switch that would open when the intake air temp exceeded 150F. (See attachment) The switch operates a, series plumbed, N.C. solenoid valve in the pilot circuit, prior to the wax controller. In this way, the fan speed can be increased when the IAT exceeds the temp of the thermo switch, independent of coolant temp. This is something I'm considering.
Greg
This really makes sense. That link is such a pleasure to read. Shame FT doesn't have the same. I agree that would be a good addition. Says it runs fans at 50% for cac cooling.
Thank you again.
Scott