I posted a couple of days ago about bringing my coach home, and it was an overall good experience. However I have been reading a lot of posts on this forum and about wandering when going down the highway. Perhaps steering box related perhaps shock related. So before I brought the coach to the repair shop for a thorough look at, I took it for a 60 mile drive down highway 94 in Wi, to test the response when driving up a grade or two. Well the test to see if it would slow down on a grade did not work to well, as it did not slow down at all, so need to find steeper grades. But when I was driving on a smooth freeway, with no traffic barriers, I think it does wander. I use one hand at times driving and sometimes 3 fingers on the wheel to make sure I am not over correcting when I drive. I am pretty sure now that it is not me. Going to have a couple of others drive it to make sure I am not the issue. So the mechanics will give me there thoughts on the cause, but I may replace the Koni shocks just because I do not know how old they are and that in some cases has made a difference in ride quality and wandering. I will also make sure that air pressures are correct, alignment is within spec etc. I am not necessarily against aids to help wandering, i.e. aftermarket aids, but would like to solve the problem by making sure every thing is correct, before I do that. Any thoughts?
You're driving a long pendulum with the heavy part at the wrong end. Having the suspension components inspected and repaired for safety's sake is just good practice. But I'd wait until I had anywhere from several hundred to 2,500 miles to "get in sync" with the chassis.
That being said, I'm not there yet. Quite.
Art
If you would add the year and model of your coach to you signature it would get you the right answers.
Least likely worn steering parts, steering box play, More likely, tire pressure, ride height, alignment.
Please tell us what coach you have so we can give more relevant answers.
And first step is to check for play in steering components and suspension parts. Check ride height. Also, tire pressure can enter in, so what PSI are you using?
And have you tried filling the fresh water tank, makes a lot of difference with a GV.
Not a GV. Until he gets around to updating his signature, let it be known that Chuckd drives a 1995 U295 (length ?).
1995 U-295
Start with least expensive stuff - air pressures and alignment (tow-in)
At any mileage if shocks are original replace with Koni FSD
If your steering box has not been rebuilt yet, at this age, get it done - (I prefer Red Head) - the seales will leak and leave you with a problem at best or stranded at worse, why not do it on your time. Your steering box is not by itself likely to cause a lot of "play" but it is a contributor to the overall issue. But seals age out and there are more than one in the box, so make it a priority if it hasn't been done.
If over 100,000 miles, it is quite possible and in fact likely that idler arms or other steering parts are loose enough to cause some of the play
It is likely not one thing but the sum of many. From 120,000 to 140,000 miles I did all these things and my "dead spot" went from about 1.5" to indiscernible.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
if over 100,000 miles
Tim Fiedler
Sure Start Soft Start (http://www.gen-pro.biz) - home of SureStart soft starters TCER Direct - Generac Home Standby Installation Wire (http://www.tcerdirect.com) - home of Generac Approved Aluminum and Copper TCER Composite cable Home | generator-gas-prod (http://www.generatorgasproducts.com) - home of X-Riser Gas Risers for PE installation Call me at 630 240-9139
Gen-Pro
Also check the toe in as if not right it will cause wandering.
Agree with one bad shock thrown in. Our steering box has 120K with no leaks If you do get a leak, just add a seal expander from your parts store. Always works for me.
Pierce
Thanks, and my profile has been somewhat updated, if I listed all my RV's that I have had I would run out of space. GMC's FMC. Winnebago Spectrum, New Horizon fifth wheel Alpenlite fifth wheel, 4 Volvo semi's two 610's and 2 770's and a Liberty Conversion Prevost 35 foot motor coach, vintage 1979, and more.
The air pressure is per the manual which is 90 psi front and 65 rear. All of the steering components will be checked, it is over a pit now, and the various items etc will be checked along with the steering box. I agree that a replacement now if the box is original is a good idea. Will check the ride height, and make sure it is to spec. I have not read many of the manuals as the coach is being examined some 30 miles from home, but I will do so when I have the chance to do so. I filled the fuel tank, but the water tank only has enough waster in it to make sure all of the plumbing, water heater et at worked. I used the posted here check list as the buying guide and it was helpful. Will check the tow in, tires are wearing evenly.
Thanks for the help, and sorry about not updating my profile sooner.
65 sure doesn't sound like enough in the rears.
What does the GVWR plaque say? You will not need that much (unless each axle is loaded to GAWR, but 65??
Brett: I am going from memory here, but I thought 65 was low, but fairly sure I saw it in the manual that I skimmed through. Now on the fuel tank in magic marker is written 65 psi and an arrow pointing to the rear, and 95 with an arrow pointing to the front. Will check the plaque on Monday.
If the tires are Michelin 275/80R22.5, per the Michelin RV Tire Guide, 65 PSI (the lowers PSI even on the chart) for duals is good for 8,190 pounds per side.
Suspect your rear axle weighs more than 16,380. And, if much under-inflated, you will have extra squirm that can lead to wandering. Not suggesting this IS the issue, but sure worth checking out.
A little over in the rear wont bother anything. 80 - 90 in the front should be close. So maybe go to 80 in the rear and see if you can tell the difference. Fuel mileage will be a little bit better .
It's not said often enough here that the chassis must be greased. I do it every 6 months and have no play to speak of at 220,000 miles. Greasing also gives you a chance to check everything under the coach-uneven brake wear, leaking axle seals, cracked inner tire sidewalls, etc.
I completely agree. I pump the slide on the drive shaft full, and the U joints all the time. I have found on the shorter 36', makes all the difference in the world with smoothness.
Same with tie rods ends, but leave the brakes alone. Just went through all those.
Chris
As was said, leave the brakes alone and for everything else, a few pennies of grease will save lots of dollars in repairs. When I park the coach for the winter all the zerks get greased.
I grease the zerks before every trip. I only give the drive line splines 5-6 pumps. The only way you know it is "full" is to keep pumping until there is movement, but then you can displace the seals. I got this info from the mechanics that worked on our fire trucks. We did a lot of things with our "diligence" that confounded them and took the units out of service. We learned quickly, especially if we had to do a "change out", moving all the equipment and hoses from one rig to a reserve. The engineer would not be popular at the fire house if it was because something he/she did.
Pierce
just add a seal expander from your parts store.
Your mailbox is "full"
Is that what it's called? Get it at AutoZone?
How/ where do you pour in the fluid?
Thanks
Pierce
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Sorry, I keep deleting but it gets full.
Glenn,
OK, the best way is to go to Amazon, do a search like this, Amazon.com: SealLube - Stops Leaks: Gasoline Engines, Diesel Engines,... (https://www.amazon.com/SealLube-Seal-Expander-1-Gallon/dp/B079SKRG4S) read the reviews with more priority to the products with the most reviews. Besides the product listed, they will have matching products down lower on the page. Easy to stuff reviews if only a few listed. Then after reading the reviews, either order using the Forum link to Amazon or call your local AutoZone, O'R, or NAPA store. They have always worked for me.
Going to empty mailbox now. Thanks Glenn!
Pierce
Where does it fill?
Ours is probably much different than yours. Our PS pump is at the driver's end of the engine with the reservoir all the way in the almost hidden driver's side rear corner of the coach. Check where your PS pump is and then if you don't see the tank, follow the supply line to it. Other owners with your model may want to chime in here.
The reservoir may be hidden on many coaches but it does have a dip stick on the top to check. I have to say that I need a check list to remember to reach where creatures may lurk to measure it.
You may need twice as much as a car would take since the PS system has so much fluid in it.
Pierce