Finally got around to making axle covers in the event towing is required. Trying to do appropriate preventive maintenance to lessen the likelihood of needing a tow, but want to be prepared in case the tow truck does not have covers.
Following the lead of others, I decided to make them vs purchasing them pre-made. Sorry, read that post weeks ago and do not remember from whom I got the idea.
Used two small cutting boards from Walmart (do not have the exact cost, but less than $2.00 each) and gaskets from Fleet Pride (part AG0111 are $1.99 each plus tax or alternate numbers Stemco 330-3036 or 330-111). So all in at about $10.00 in parts including tax.
Taped a gasket to one of the cutting boards to use as a template and traced the outline.
Clamped then screwed both cutting boards to a scrap piece of OSB.
Used a 5/8" spade bit to drill the holes and a saber saw to cut out the covers.
Will include 16 each 5/8 washers and a couple heavy duty trash bags (to store the pulled axles) along with these covers and gaskets in case towing is required.
Happy with the outcome, but hope they are never needed.
I was towed 37 miles at 60 mph in Kansas. The tow driver disconnected the drive shaft and had no problems at all. Axels were never touched. From the time he arrived until I was underway was less than 1 hour. Just saying.
Yes, I understand that is the other option. Each approach seems to have its pros and cons. I do not currently have a preference, but interested in opinions.
Pulling the axles seems like more work as half the lugs have to be removed to remove the hub cap, then still have to remove the axle nuts and there will be draining oil to catch.
Disconnecting the drive shaft means being under coach and preferably it would be marked/indexed so it can be put back the same.
Excellent report on a nice shop project. Well done! ^.^d
Having the axle cover set on hand gives you the
option of being towed
either way...whatever works best under the circumstances.
You have way more faith in a tow truck driver than I do. How many tow truck drivers are going to mark the driveshaft? How many shops are going to torque the fasteners correctly? If they even have all of them. And incorrect reassembly may not show it's ugly head for thousands of miles. I had a driveshaft come loose back in the late 1950's while driving to Mazatlan. The Ford factory in Hermosillo put it on a rack and replace the bolts for free.
Get rid of the cover that requires every other nut be taken off and install the 8 inch stainless axle covers. One second and they are off and ten minutes later, the coach can be towed.
I have a pair of the old style axle covers for free and only want shipping costs.
Pierce
The drive shaft does NOT need to be marked. He disconnected only one end.
Pierce
I agree 100%. Don't make your own bad "luck"
Scott
When you pull these caps to disconnect the driveshaft there are needle bearings that many times come loose and you have to hang the shaft with ratchet tie or something so it won't fall out of the splines. My guess is to raise the coach add the safety stands and remove the caps, would take about as long as pulling the axles. When the caps are replaced at a shop if they lose a needle bearing you are not going to find out about it until the u-joint gets replaced.
reply #6
Ride height question (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=30983.msg271429#msg271429)
I believe he may have removed these as there were parts he gave to the shop to use when they replaced the driveshaft.
Anyhow, it was a piece of cake.
I think the point was that there are lots of opportunities for things to go wrong. Bad weather, mud, tow truck driver from the Netflix series "Ozark," etc. These things may shorten the life of components. Guess I don't trust much.
Pierce
I do not trust much either which is why I try to do most repairs myself. I might not get it right, but at least I know what was done and learn from the experience.
Do you have a link for an example "no bolt" hub cover what will fit? I saw a couple on Amazon but not sure how deep they need to be to fit.
Here is just one example for a 8.5 inch axle: Semi Truck Hubcaps - Best Semi Axle Covers & Chrome Hub Covers | Iowa80 (https://www.iowa80.com/wheels/hub-caps/hubcaps) Always good to give them a call so everyone is on the same page.
Update: The axle diameter on our 1993 U300 is exactly 8.5 inches with 5/8 inch studs. Measure yours before ordering.
Pierce
When I broke down I was going to pull my own drive shaft, one end and tie it up. Then they showed up with a lowboy transport trailer. Winched me on and away we went down I90 west, only we were east bound in the west bound lane. That guy was half crazy, but really careful with our coach. What a day that was, blew a stainless braded fuel line on the very back of the engine. Mines a rear radiator model.
Love the cutting board covers at the top of the post!
P
Thanks. Next time the wheels are removed I will leave off the stock hub caps and will look at obtaining friction fit ones like you suggested.
DayDreamer showed us (first post in this thread) how to make your own axle caps for towing. Excellent project! ^.^d
For those who either don't have the tools to make their own caps, or are too lazy (like me), the other option is buying them.
Thought I would add a few photos showing where you can purchase them, what you get, and the current (2020) price.
I always carry my set on our coach...whilst hoping that I totally wasted my money and will never need to use them.
Question for the group: Why do the store bought caps include the small holes with red removable plugs?
Hint: I don't know the answer.
Thank you Chuck for info on covers. Prior to learning about the positive aspects of pulling the axels, I was towed twice. The first time the driver beat off the caps with a hammer, the shop said they needed to be replaced. The second time the shop told me there were parts missing, so the joint had to be replaced. Now I'll order the end caps and have the tow driver pull the axels.
Chuck,
They are plugs, probably to enable oil to be added in case the coach was at an angle and a lot ran out when the downside axle was pulled. Just my guess.
Pierce
Never thought about it before but don't the rotating axles bring the oil to the wheel bearings? Adding oil through that hole would overfill the rear end but protect the wheel bearing while being towed.
Yes, but say the failure on the coach resulted in it being parked with one axle much lower than the other. When the lower axle was pulled. would enough oil go out on the ground or in a bucket to require refilling the rear end? Normally, in a full floating rear end, the bearing/hub stays in place and should block enough oil from escaping that it should not be a problem. Can't think of another reason and if it were not so late, I would call the guy and ask. By tomorrow, the thought will be gone.
Pierce
Read the description "for adding oil"
Olson & Co. 10-Piece Motorcoach Axle Cap Set (https://zips.com/parts-detail/olson-co-10-piece-motorcoach-axle-cap-ack10?ppc_keyword=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoJX8BRCZARIsAEWBFMIDQW4F2kFYbdTrwDKlkomjDyaWIXCK_dccn32ig09KKmLQKw1LWNEaArDlEALw_wcB)
Thanx, Chuck! Question answered...but brings up more.
1. What kind of oil? The same stuff you put in the rear differential? 85W140?
2. How much would you add?
3. Would need a way to squirt the oil through that little hole.
The quart bottles usually have a tapered spout for filling and a little cap that goes over the end. Quick snip and squeeze the bottle into the hole and then put the cap on the rest of the bottle. Valvoline here: Amazon.com: Valvoline - VV831 High Performance SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil 1 QT:... (https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV831-Quart-High-Performance/dp/B001OV61KW/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=hypoid+oil+quart+container&qid=1602641389&sr=8-5)
Depends on how much was lost.
Pierce
I would use the 85/140 as that is the weight of the original oil. I still have two 15 gal. containers of Pennzoil 85/140 so I won't be going to synthetic just to be able to use some of it.
Amazon.com: ValvolineHigh Performance SAE 85W-140 Gear Oil 1 QT: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-85W-140-Performance-VV825-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B0002KLBWO?ref_=ast_sto_dp)
Chuck I may have sent you a set of defective covers. I'll contact legal and see what they want to do. I think I'm not going to worry about added oil because they were serviced prior to being pulled and however much oil is retained will be enough to be towed several Hundred miles IMO. Very little oil is needed to perform at rated values. I doubt any oil migrates out on the outside of a spinning shaft (axle). Got a answer from legal, she is not concerned. Your double your cash back guarantee stands.
Scott
Thanks for the covers Scott. I could always just tap a 1/4 pipe thread in the cap and plug it if I am worried about it. Let the legal department know I won't be bothering them. I know for a fact the axles will pull oil through the tube as when I did the rear end on my crane and filled the housing with oil it wasn't coming out the end of the axle tube. Put the axles in and ran it on the jacks then pulled one axle and oil was there. Put a welding rod in a cordless drill and spin it in oil and it will climb up. I am with you if I ever am towed the oil in the hub will get me where they take me.
Chuck
Never having removed the chrome covers on my rear axles, can anyone confirm that the axle covers that Chuck shows in reply #15 are correct for all U series coaches?
Count the studs on your coach and give the mfg a ring and ask. Might be good to include the flange diameter. The part number is visible in the first photo.
Pierce
Axle Caps (Meritor/Rockwell 8-Bolt) (https://wdelivers.com/i-10397-axle-caps-meritor-rockwell-8-bolt.html)
MR8D-1
Looks to be correct
If you dont have covers, remove the axles anyway and cover with cardboard or a plastic bag. Much cheaper that taking a chance with joints and driveline removal IMO.
Amazon.com: GG Grand General 90250 Chrome Aluminum Heavy Duty Lug Nut Cover... (https://www.amazon.com/Grand-General-90250-Chrome-Aluminum/dp/B017CTIOQI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=Q0DUGJFPXPY4&keywords=lug%2Bnut%2Bcover%2Bremoval%2Btool&qid=1674585495&sprefix=Lug%2Bnut%2Bcover%2B%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3&th=1)
To remove lug nut plastic covers and chrome center will fall off exposing axle. Generally they can be pulled off by hand
Interesting to note the difference in prices since I posted my photos (Reply #15) 3 years ago.
The price of the cover kit only went up 95 cents to $39.95. However, the cheapest shipping option (to our house in ZIP code 79707) is now UPS Ground for $20.36 while I only paid $7.75 for USPS.
Almost three times more expensive for shipping.