I'm thinking about buying a crimper to add to my tool connection. Amazon and eBay have some that use mm to size the lugs.
I believe that I should be using 4/0 welding wire ??
Any recommendations for a reasonably priced tool?
Glenn,
This is the one I purchased. Works really well. Yes, 4/0 welding cable is good. It may not support itself as well as the thicker strands on regular cables so you may have to support it if it hangs down.
16 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 11... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Ton-Hydraulic-Wire-Battery-Cable-Lug-Terminal-Crimper-Crimping-Tool-11-Dies/301230084803?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649). Wish I had seen it years before.
Pierce
I use a " hammer crumper" as long as you can make the cable up then install. If you have to crimp in place they won't work if you don't have a solid place to set it. They can be had on line for 15 bucks or so.
"reasonably priced" is a relative term.
I am in the middle of installing a new alternator. I needed to make up some fresh battery and alternator charging cables. On the recommendation of Peter and Don (World Famous Forum Enablers) I purchased the FTZ crimper linked below. It makes beautiful looking crimps, and is very easy to use. I believe it is worth the money, but that's just my O-pinion. Photos below of my new 2/0 charging cable.
FTZ Correct Crimp Heavy Duty Lug Crimp Tool - - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRZ465K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details)
You will also need to get a tool to cut the cable. A hack saw or dremel tool will not do it cleanly enough to fit in the connector. I tried both methods before I bought a cutting tool specifically designed too cut that size cable.
Roland
I use an impact crimper, like Bruce mentioned, due to the fact that the low cost of the tool makes sense for my infrequent use. It works well when used on a solid surface. Having done more crimps than I originally expected, (or care to mention), I would now buy the hydraulic one, as Pierce mentioned, or the compound leverage one Chuck suggests. BTW, quality work there, Chuck.
One tool I do have, and recommend, is a decent ratcheting cable cutter. I think this is the one I have. Klein Tools 63060 Ratcheting Cable Cutter, 400 MCM Copper, 600 MCM Aluminum... (http://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb/ratcheting-cable-cutter-88153586#{Capacity:400%20MCM%20Copper,%20600%20MCM%20Aluminum%20and%201-1/8%20in.%20Cable}&{Tool%20Application:Cable%20Cutter}&{Length:10-1/4%20in.}&{Material:Steel})
Pricey, but I bought it in the 90's for much less than the current price. There's plenty of knockoffs available for far less.
Greg
The big advantage to the hydraulic tool I bought is that it's 16 tons vs 5 tons plus it has the dies to crimp anything from the smallest connector to 4/0. The crimps look like they came from the factory.
I just used a sharp pair of electrical cutters and tapered the ends of the cable just a little for our new inverter. I was then able to insert it into the copper lug. If you can, buy the lugs with the slight flair at the end as they will allow the untrimmed cable to be inserted into the lug for crimping.
If you slide shrink tubing down over the cable before crimping, you just have to heat it and it's factory.
I did read the instructions before using and once the crimp was made, didn't use any more force to damage the seals.
The numbers on the dies were not exactly the correct size as called for but I just experimented a little and quickly found the size that worked the best. If you rotate the lug a few degrees after crimping, it make a perfectly round crimp.
I also used a felt marker to write the size on the sides of the dies for easy selection and storage.
The hydraulic crimper works well in limited space.
Pierce
Glenn I surely would recommend using marine tinned cabling. For a few dollars more most will swag the ends for you. UL wire and ends...
The marine wire is pvc coated versus rubber and does not produce dangerous smoke if burned and does not slide off if burned and does not support flames
Better, safer cabling and pro installed ends.
I bought one of the hydraulic crimping tools from Amazon, no matter there you get it they all look (and probably are) the same. I returned it because it did not have dies for 3/0 cable. 2/0 and 4/0 yes. Nothing between those two sizes. And three or four bigger ones and some smaller ones. I returned it, I considered this a fatal flaw. I talked to the seller and they said they just didn't include 3/0 dies and didn't have any at all.
For use on your coach's primary 12v system and solar applications you need to be able to make connections from 6ga to 4/0 and each size between them. The FTZ crimper does all of these.
I usually do two layers of Ancor adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. The first is shorter, maybe 1- 1-1/2" long for big cables, and covers the cable and the end of the lug. The second is about 1" longer and extends about 1/2" over the ends of the first layer.
Most crimp making videos suggest rotating the crimp 90° (or 60° if you have a hex shaped die) and crimping it again. This will flatten out any edges that show up between the dies on the first crimp. It makes a better looking end result.
When you are making your own cables you can rotate one lug relative to the other lug, 90° one way or the other or even 180°, to get cables to fit what you are connecting them to without having to twist the cable. It helps. If you have two lugs on one post having them 180° from each other makes alignment much easier.
You can see on my bus bars how two cables attach to each post and are both aligned in the same direction.
And on the bench where I made all of the cables and determined best fit for all of the connections before installing all of it each of the cables lie naturally with no twist.
I use clear heat shrink tubing and a piece of a Post-I note to make cable labels.
I got by with a hammer crimp for my solar project and easy to carry in motor home. If I wasn't going full time and had a shop I would look hard at hydraulic or other professional quality tool. Little more learning curve on hammer crimp but it worked up to 4/0. 10 gauge and smaller use crimper from Home Depot found among electrical tools where I also bought heavy duty wire cutter. I think the cutter and crimper were each in $30+ range. Every time I use them, which is fairly often, I'm glad I went up the food chain a little bit on them.
With the rapid changes in battery technology, inverters, and the age of these coaches, It's very likely you will be making more cables than not.
One thing to consider is for a very good reason as Caflashbob has mentioned in using marine tinned cabling. I have been watching some very instructional video seminars on wiring in boating use recommending marine and not welding as the jacket will melt away when it comes in contact with oils. I have learned a lot watching these and they pertain very well to our type of use in the motorhomes. They are not trying to sell anything but offering a service through these seminars to the boating crowd and RVers as well. It was nice that they video taped all their instructional videos and put them onto YouTube for easy access. I'm sure anyone with boating experience will be glad to chime in on the validity of this as I'm no expert by any means but always trying to learn, even from my own mistakes and I've made a lot which I am redoing now. They have over 20 instructional videos to watch and they are long but what you get out of it is worth the time, I feel.
Please don't take this as a must do it is was just something that I thought to be of value at the time and I do not mean to contradict anyone here or cause bad feelings as I may have done. As I mentioned I'm no expert and still trying to learn. All I wanted to do was be careful and be safe with our coaches as I would hate to have something happen and then think why I had not made an effort to help on some small point. I apologize to anyone here that I may have offended.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZO7BPh3RxWA&list=LL&index=77
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzrC-1YgrHk
John
You don't need an expensive cable cutter for large welding cables. Wrap duct tape around where you are going to cut use a metal fine tooth hacksaw blade.
That saw blade has seen better days. 8)
Same as me, but some life left at the end.
Don't know what who you purchased yours from but ours does all imaginable cables from 4/0 down to 16. I suspect you purchased the 11 ton model that does not do the larger sizes. Mine is the 16 ton. See photos in my post. I used a 4/0 for a ground cable and 3/0 for the new inverter. It make great looking crimps with minimum effort.
Pierce
I bought the same crimper as Pierce and found for amateur use it works great. I did a BUNCH of 4/0 cable ends.
If you use a hacksaw like Craneman did and then use a lug with an expanded end, the cable will go in without much problem. If you cut the cable right, the black cable cover will just come up to the lug perfectly. See photo.
Pierce
I ordered this one. It does do at least three sizes bigger than 4/0.
TEMCo Industrial Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper TH0005 V2.0 (11 US TON) 10 AWG... (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJXG3KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
No dies marked for 3/0 sizes and the customer support help said there was not one for that size. Sent it back, no problems.
Pictures on Amazon now look like they added a 3/0 and a 3/0+ die. They weren't in the set I got.
My FTZ crimper has no parts to swap out or lose. Never had a crimp fail. Works for me.
It is not a crimper competition, use what works for you.
The PYS video above is mostly misleading.
TEMCo Industrial Hydraulic Cable Lug Crimper TH0005 V2.0 (11 US TON) 10 AWG... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJXG3KM/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1#immersive-view_1601769776427)
I purchased this crimper. Will do up to 600 mcc Like 3/4 inch Did a beautiful job. Would without hesitation buy again. Posted pictures in June I think with it. Barn find
Scott