So could someone give me there opinion on our stove output, our refrigerator does not stay cold on gas, but works fine on ac. I think the regulator is running lower than it should, do , what do you think?
Scott
Think the only way to know is to measure the gas pressure,borrow or buy a ounce gage and measure.
You probably have a bad fridge, turn off every thing else and check it again. Have a great day. ---- Fritz
Fridge works fine on AC
Make sure the gas burner in the fridge is clean and free of any rust bits. A low flame can produce insufficient heat.
Can the stove run both burners without one side dimming when the other is lit?
If so the pressure may be low ,
Roger first photo is fridge. I removed and verified being clean inside. The regulator has been pressured last ten years, no leaks. Just think the output looked visually low. Just thought someone might look at range photo and say yes mine looks the same or I'm guessing bigger I'll replace the regulator because they do get Old before I attempt to measure flo
Scott
I read where regulators should be changed every 5 years or at least fully tested
Kinda what I was guessing
Wonder if this is it:
Can the stove run both burners without one side dimming when the other is lit?
If NOT the pressure may be low
BTW, for under $25, just replace the regulator!
Our U300's regulator started to smell so I replaced it. Foretravel installed single stage regulators OEM but a 2 stage is only a dollar or so more. It's slightly longer so I added a support so it would not vibrate.
Yes, easy to check the regulator's output pressure. They do get old.
It's not the fridge. Electricity heats an element that heats the same ammonia the gas does.
Pierce
The "chimney" of the fridge over the burner/flame is where the heat transfer occurs. They frequently build up rust flakes that inhibit the heat transfer.
You can "bang" the chimney and knock some rust loose, but learn how first so you don't punch a hole in it. there is a method.
My stove burners were low so I decided to change dual regulator with new one. When I unhooked the rubber line off the regulator it had substantial amount of oil in it. After draining oil and replacing regulator the burners flame was much higher. Also my furnaces were not lighting every time since finding oil in line they both light every time.
Flames APPEAR normal. Dinosaur electronics makes a replacement board for the refer. My igniter went out on my 97 dometic rm 7832. Fixed.
Currently running 23 and 50deg on gas. Will run -14 and 34 on ac. Propane should be more efficient if it's getting enough BTUs to operate Will locate a brush today and clean the flue
Scott
Check the height and color of the flame. Here is what your flame color should look like: Appliance411 FAQ: What should my gas range's flames look like? (http://www.appliance411.com/faq/gas_range_flames.shtml)
Pierce
Pierce the trouble shooting aid is helpful. In looking at the first post with pictures I do believe the old regulator is the primary cause of my poor gas performance.. works good on ac even when 105 deg outside. I will order a two stage regulator when we get home on Tuesday
Be sure to order the CORRECT regulator.
If installed vertically, the vent (small screened area) must be on the long axis of the regulator.
If installed horizontally, the vent must be perpendicular to the long axis of the regulator.
Said another way, the vent MUST POINT DOWN when installed.
Minor suggestion: NEVER check your old regulator for leaks with a lit match. >:D
I think our two stage regulator was $21-$25. About a buck or two more than the single stage.
If anyone is having trouble with higher pressure air not making bubbles when they check for leaks, buy some Pustefix bubble making liquid. It's what is used in the bubble making machines and not only makes huge bubbles but you can touch them without popping them plus they last a long time. Used in weddings, parties, and Foretravel air leak detection. ;) Amazon.com: Pustefix Bubbles with Wand (Colors May Vary): Toys & Games (https://www.amazon.com/Pustefix-Bubbles-Wand-Colors-Vary/dp/B000KJQJJW)
Looked at the flame in the two photos at the top. Color and size look good but nothing like checking the WC.
Pierce
When I was a kid in HS, I had a go kart gas tank with a lot of rust. I used acid to get rid of the rust and then I wanted to see inside so lit a match and tried to look inside at the same time. I got my eyes closed just as the flame hit my face. Didn't have to worry about a hair cut or sideburns for a while. Terrible smell of burning hair.
Pierce
Replaced gas regulator with new. Same two stage 290 has been replaced with 291 $35.40
Amazon.com: Marshall Excelsior MEGR-291 Reg 2-Stage Vert: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTSBYTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Somewhat better but still unacceptable 14deg and 47deg on max setting
Works perfect on AC power. -4deg and 34deg on setting 2
I would think if it works okay on AC gas should be better?
Does the control board function differently between the two?
I do not see as hi boiler temperature and the fans never come on with gas. I have visually checked flue and cleaned, very little rust deposits removed. I have visually checked propane jet and it's clean, I didn't clean with solvent but may go back and clean. Flame is same as posted prior on fridge.
I was really hoping my old regulator had low output and was my problem but nothing much has changed.
Scott
You can clean the burner and also the orfice. Also check the swirler in the chimney to make sure that it is there and not partially burned off.
YUP, do a "burner area tune-up. No parts needed and no special tools. Can make a world of difference in BTU's of heat to the boiler= difference in cooling
Flue is clean. Also cleaned top tubes of absorption unit while I was in there. Mechanically brushed flue
That swirler looks like new. I am guessing orfice or burner.
Flue and burner area clean flame looks correct
You could also check the pressure at the gas valve. Also remove the orfice and check that a gnat isn't in it. I have found that before. They are attracted to the smell of propane.
Orfiice visually looks clean. Going to get the gage to verify gas pressure. I still am guessing it's low. Will chemically clean. Burner tube is also new looking. Cleaned. Need to find out what the operating pressures are also.. been busy updating windows in one of our houses. Too whooped to work on coach today.
Scott
What Do You Mean 11 inches of Water Column? | Good Sam Camping Blog (https://blog.goodsam.com/what-do-you-mean-11-inches-of-water-column/)
Searched forum then internet. Just found this article that covers it well. They are saying 10.5 to 11 inches WC water column. Still need to confirm but have a direction. Also will verify flow after control solenoid not restricted. They also talk about adjustments in article.
Scott
Make your own gauge for $5. Lots more on YouTube if you don't like this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWNFVRvbAqw
Pierce
So checked gas pressure to being above 10WC. Went and removed gas solenoid on fridge and located a inlet screen. Cleaned and verified operation. Used brake clean on fuel nozzle. I believe I read that they are a ceramic jet and not to physically touch. They also refract the light going thru them like no other jet I've ever seen. Weird. Red Tractor mentioned how the swirler looked new. Low output would cause that. Reinstalled and I think there is substantially more gas flow now. Suspect I have solved my small flame problem. There is a test port on the valve marked .5 psi. It has been installed with lock tight and would have to be heated to remove. I tried a little but figure it would be better or not. I am guessing my stove may have a similar Inlet screen which I will eventually look for and clean.
Scott
Follow up. Fridge at 1@37 degrees temp setting #2 on gas same as operating on ac. Problem fixed with cleaning Plugged fuel solenoid inlet screen.
Scott
I followed up with ARP about my low flow and had I been able to navigate there web sight better I could of found my problem earlier. They responded and asked I mention the following link, links. It is covered very well and better than I would have ever done. I would of never imagined that operating under low LP flow was a fire hazard. These are genuinely good systems (Absorption cooling ) but I can't imagine operating them without a safety system backing up operating control and limits. Shame on the manufacturers not building this into there systems after the first fire.
ARP has made a career out of their deficit. IMO
Dometic Does Not Cool | Dometic LP Filter | Dometic Gas Valve (https://www.arprv.com/dometic-does-not-cool.php)
My LP low pressure filter at the fuel shut off solenoid was partially plugged. Cause my poor performance on gas issues.
So has anyone ever cleaned there's?
Scott
Good safety tip for OEM fridge owners. Plugging
may be caused by "oil" accumulation in the gas lines. See link below for discussion.
I believe there is also a filter on the gas fired cooktops that might need cleaning?
Oil Accumulation in Propane System (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=40088)
Particularly true with liquid tap propane generators!
I agree. I had mentioned before but the down side won't kill you, just slow cooking.. it's on the list now but many others are before. I did drain several teaspoons of black oil out of the lower line at the regulator near the bottle.
Nevertheless I am doubting few have ever cleaned there LP low pressure filter at the fuel solenoid valve
Scott
So updating this post. Problem is back.
In re reading this post I'm going to order a new gas control valve and nozzle assembly and recheck regulator gas pressure.
Just need to research part numbers.
Works great on AC. :headwall:
Scott
Current fridge flame. Can blow out and Immediately restarts
Scott
Side note never bend a good starrett scale. The are so hard and brittle they brake
Scott,
From the rust below the burner tube, again, suggest you remove and clean it. Also, remove the gas jet and verify it is clean (do not use any metal tool on the jet).
Very hard to "eyeball" whether the flame is sufficiently large to allow the refrigerator to cool properly.
Said another way, the flame can be big enough to keep the thermocouple "satisfied" but still not providing enough BTU's for the refrigerator to operate properly.
Again, basically you have gas pressure (house regulator) and clean propane jet and clean burner tube to achieve enough BTU's for the refrigerator to operate properly. OR one or more of these diminishing performance just a little leading to a larger BTU "shortfall".
Brett I agree. I have cleaned burner tube prior and will order a new one. I've had the gas valve apart prior and did find the slintered brass screen restricted. Paul Unmack Had mentioned to check and it is in his video. Nozzle appears to be clean and used alcohol cleaner. Was working better prior. I'm going to replace valve, nozzle Assembly and burner tube. Currently ran gas for a hour and took measurements of temperature with ARP controller and just switched to electric to compare values. Both electric heating probes drawing 1.8 amps each. Will post numbers once I figure them out. It's already 100 degrees in the shade. When I ordered the ARP kit we added the fans and I asked to have a additional condenser cooling fan with the kit. They stated that I probably didn't need but wouldn't hurt having the Additional fan other than additional battery draw. They are saying 116 tomorrow oh joy!
Scott
So being frustrated with all my other distractions I finished cleaning the flue on the absorption fridge I started several days ago. Removed air tube and burner and ignition point. Removed upper cap on roof and pulled spiral swirler out from top with hooked wire. Placed clean paper towel under flue to capture cleaning junk. Brush is 67 inches long.
So in looking at it flue was still clean IMO and realized that it exhausts inside the condoned air space of the coach directly on the gas tube heating it addionally before exiting the roof cap. About 18" below the top. I think I understand they are still heating the gas at that point just prior to condensing radiator. I curious if that half before it starts it's return and condensation would work better if it was inside a metal flue/augmenter that would actually help to draw additional air out of the conditioned space area and out the upper cap vent. I think this would reduce temperature on the condenser area because the thermal siphoning would be would draw the hot air out without letting it mix with the cooler condenser air? Blue mark would represent box area
Scott