Did the search, lots of good info, but not the answer I was looking for.
There is a 4" section at the top of my gold Illuminate lights that are out. No burning or anything. So I took a razor blade, and separated the top along the edge.
Now the whole way I separated it, none of that 12" section of light works. The rest does. The 2 left panels are unplugged
Everything looks fine, don't see any shorts. I tried black tape to insulate it. The insulation is still on the aluminum.
Any info?
Thanks Chris
When I did mine it didn't fix any areas that were blacked out already it just stopped the area that was shorting out from doing anymore damage. At least that is the way I understood it?
I am thinking it needs some type of glue, to cause transfer of voltage back.
Electric paint sounded interesting.
I just don't see where it is shorted
CW
There seems to be transformers? On the back of the panels. Not sure how Javelina wired or powered the panel. The glow area I think is 110 volt?
Having worked on several Beech Baron aircraft that have these same type panels found this information. I don't know if these will be like the Foretravel panels or not. A phone call doesn't cost very much though.
Steve McKinney, is the owner of Air Capitol Dial in Wichita, Kansas. Air Capitol Dial is the go-to source for their unique services of repairing and restoring EL panels.. Also found that EL panels are powered using alternating current (AC) power, similar to what we have in our homes. Converting the direct current (DC) power to AC requires an inverter. These inverters don't last forever. Worse, that little 1"x 2" DC/AC inverter cost about $900 new from Textron (Beechcraft) and $500 on the used market! Time for some creative research. UMA have a line of certified EL instrument lights that are powered by their own FAA/PMA inverter that can be used as a direct replacement for the original Beech part. At a cost of about $70, it is a much more reasonable option.
Where and how do the plug in? None of mine work, in fact until recently I didn't even know about this feature. I suspect my problem may be the dash inverter. Sorry Chris, not trying to hijack your thread just want to know how each panel is connected.
You can see the small round inverters bonded to the back of the dash panels along their lower edge.
If all of yours are out I'm thinking the dash brightness rheostat is not feeding the circuit?
Mine don't work also. There is no power to the rheostat and I haven't found the inverter yet. Owners before me drilled holes
though the dash and one screw goes right through the blue.
Death to short out the panel
Took a stab at it, ordered electric paint for $15.00. Going to re-glue the edge with that.
Everything looks good, no shorts or sparks.Just no light where it is un-attched to the dash
Otherwise will send them to someone, and have them repaired.
Surprised more people haven't dealt with these.
Chris
Chris, I called James at Extreme and he was more than happy to talk with me (7mnths ago) about the fixes for the EL dash. He used to build them at Foretravel. Might give him a call
Thank you, have his number, was on my list.
Chris
I found a thread on the Wanderlodge Owners Group forum on EL dash issues. Perhaps it may be of help: Link (https://test.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2303)
There was also a link to a supplier of the inverters that power the luminescent strips. I don't know if it is the same as used on Foretravel. Link (https://dupreeproducts.com/products/inverter?_pos=1&_sid=cf981a57c&_ss=r)
UPDATE:
Thanks for all the help, did talk to James at Extreme, super nice guy, gave me all the time in the world, but wasn't much help.
He did say if I find the EL, he would would walk me through repair.
Have not talked to Steve McKinney, of Air Capitol Dial in Wichita, Kansas. Probably going to be pretty expensive.But not off the table yet.
I did find EL rope light. Have an idea to make the aluminum panels out plexiglass, peel the facia off (comes off easy) and attach the rope lights to the back of the plexiglass. But not in the mood right now, working on race car.
So here is my temporary fix. Red, blue, or green. Plus 20 other blinking and random lights via included remote. Cost me $10.00 delivered. Cheap as chips.
I can make it Christmas lights too.
Chris