New FT owner here. 97 U295. Went to a campground for a shakeout trip, and to my surprise, I found out the sewer hose in the MH was incomplete, and that the gray/black drain from the MH seemed to be larger than the standard sewer hose connection. At least it's larger, ever so slightly, for Rhino hose connections. Is there a special connection that FT uses, and if so, what brand hose /connection should I go with?
The typical sewer hose standard connection from FT was Thetford. Most other RV's use Valterra. There is a converter that will allow you to connect your Valterra hose to your Thetford sewer pipe.
Amazon.com: Valterra T05-2285VP Universal Adapter - Thetford to Valterra:... (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T05-2285VP-Universal-Adapter-Thetford/dp/B0006N5S6C)
I found that they were very prone to leaking and I converted the coach to Valterra, but the adapter will get you going.
Thanks Bdale. So are you saying, that even with the use of a new adapter, the connection still leaks?
What was involved in converting your coach to Valterra? Just cutting off the drain pipe end, and gluing on a Valterra connector?
Not Bdale, but yes, just cut off and glue on the Valtarra adapter. Remember to use the black solvent for that joint. HomeDepot, Lowes, sell this. Hope this helps!
You might want to consider adding a third valve if you decide to make the change. You can search here for threads on it, but basically you are adding another slide valve right at the connection point, which allows you to dump your black tank, then flush it with grey water. It also adds another element of safety to make sure that what's in the tanks stays in the tanks until you are ready to dump. Valves have been known to work open a bit (or sometimes someone forgets to close one completely) and that can make for a mess.
Oh how that brings back memories from our 95 Foretravel. Headed out east on our first trip. Tanks were full from overnighting at Wally World and truck stops. Pulled into a campground for night so that we could dump. Found that my sewer hose wouldn't connect to the discharge pipe. Frantically drove around to RV stores to find a hose that would fit. No luck. Nobody had ever seen - or heard - of such a dilemma. None of other MH owners at campground had ever heard of Foretravel. Had never heard of Foreforums at that point. Oh, how I hated my Foretravel. Why would a company build a rig with such an unorthodox discharge pipe. After spending half the night digging through the previous owner's stash of collectables, I discovered an 'adaptor'. Worked great for all the years we had the coach. Now, my 2002 has a 'standard' discharge pipe and I don't need it any longer. Made sure the new owners of my 1995 had a couple of adaptors and knew what they were for.
Found out since that Foretravel has quite a few unorthodox (I call them design flaws) features.
Larry
Yes, I found that the adapter tends to leak. Even if you buy a Thetford hose, I think that is also more prone to leaking than the Valterra connection. The Thetford has only 2 tabs to create pressure on the seal while the Valterra has 4. Mine always tended to leak on one of the 2 sides that had no tab. As has been mentioned, converting from Thetford to Valterra is pretty easy, and it is definitely worth adding the 3rd valve at that time. In fact, the 3rd valve becomes your Valterra connection. As long as you have space tor the valve itself, it's the same work as simply installing a new end piece but you get the extra benefits of the 3rd valve.
Amazon.com: Valterra T50 3" Hub x 3" Bay with Cap Valve Assembly,Black:... (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T50-Hub-Valve-Assembly/dp/B00594B1KA/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UTidSmockHYepWRYTtgc0r1WzSEfl43knYZevr9jqpR8_dInxdKllxoCYggQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409958172409&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027743&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14251183661619481050&hvtargid=kwd-3212697676&hydadcr=24661_11410855&keywords=valterra+valve&qid=1605040971&sr=8-3&tag=googhydr-20)
Foretravel used 4 in outlet in those years and the nice lady at every rv store I went to had never heard of such 12 years ago up until current. They keep plenty of 3 and whatever inch for travel trailers. Think I will change mine over as well because I have lost 1 adapter and FT sent me my last one. Easy to miss place in the hustle of things.
Older airstreams also have the Thetford connector.
The thetford connector is available from Amazon, I had to replace mine after a bout of unexpected high water pressure from the hose to rinse my pipe blew it out of my hand ! I have since learned to check the water pressure prior to putting the pipe in the flow. As to leaky fittings, no sorry haven't had any of that on my 33 year old GV nor on the same setup on a Southwind we owned. The cheap brown pipes fit the the connector with the aid of a little WD 40, no fuss no muss.
I guess I'm not getting the logic behind adding a 3rd valve. If you dump the black tank first, and then the gray, isn't that flushing it all out?
Another question is, should I replace the valves while I have the wet bay compartment open? Both black plastic handles have broken in half, and I'm having a heck of a time removing them. I'm afraid I will scratch the valve stem, below the handles if I use vice grips to try and get the plastic handles off.
Bruce, the reason for a third valve gives you 2 benefits. 1- after flushing the black tank you can close the new 3rd valve and open up the grey valve and this sends the grey water up into the black tank to flush out any solids that may be sticking to the sides of black tank. You then close the grey valve , open the 3rd one and this helps keep the tank cleaner. After the black tank is empty then open grey again and let both tanks drain completely.
2- should one of the original valves go faulty in the open position this new 3rd valve stops waste from exiting the system till you are somewhere that it can all be drained safely. Those broken handles can be replaced with homemade ones as they attach to shaft by a 1/4" thread so if you get a nut of this size and have it welded to a small piece of 38" sq bar you can then use that to replace them.
I have changed mine out to electric valves so that all I now do is press a button to open and close them.
Johnh
Yes - definitely - now while you have everything apart is the time to replace both valves. This will preclude any more trouble in the near future, and provide welcome peace of mind.
You setup is the same as our coach. Replacing the valves with lots of working room is very easy. On other coaches, it is very crowded around the valves making it a much more difficult project. See link below:
Problems with third dump valve mod (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=23338.msg181042#msg181042)
Note: I put my "third valve" together from 4 separate parts. You can also buy a 3rd valve assembly already put together, but I think it comes with a plastic "T" handle. The way I did it, you will have a metal "T" handle on the 3rd valve.
3rd reason for a 3rd valve: If you are boondocking and one tank is full and the other still has space, you can transfer between them so that are at the same level.
Thanks for explaining, now that makes sense.
The other issue I see is that if you add the valve on the outside of the enclosed section, it looks like it may block the bay door from closing once you have a hose attached. Has this been an issue for any of you, and if so, how did you handle it?
You may be able to install the third valve far enough back to allow room for a 45 or 90 degree angle fitting to be installed on the 3rd valve. If so, then the dump hose will point downward, and the bay door will close. You'll have to look at how much room you have to see if that is possible. See link below:
Amazon.com: Valterra T1023 ClearView Hose Adapter - 90°: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1023-ClearView-Hose-Adapter/dp/B0006MRQRM/ref=sr_1_47?dchild=1&keywords=Valterra&qid=1605126831&sr=8-47)
If you don't have room to do that, then you just do what I do. Open the bay door, hook up the dump hose, dump the tank, remove the hose, close the bay door. Has worked fine for us for 7 years. If you are going to be in one place for 3 months at a time, it may not be as convenient as leaving the dump hose connected all the time. But it works.
I just replaced both of my dump valves, already have a 3rd valve. Both of the valves had broken at the very top where the cable is attached and held by the plastic. Look at yours closely here. If it cracks the valve won't open or close with the handle since the cable sheath is not held anymore.
Remove the 4 bolts on each valve body and the entire assembly will come out so you can add the 3rd valve. It's also a good time to replace the rubber matting if it's deteriorated.
The Foretravel factory parts department had the valves at a much cheaper price than anywhere else. I think they were $30 each without the cables.
Irregardless of what type connector you have, the O-ring may have aged to the point where the elasticity is gone. Or maybe the o-ring itself is gone. Or the coach mating part is worn. I would try taking the o-ring to somewhere that sells o-rings that size and see if you can get the next diameter cross section larger.
Do you get much resistance when hooking the connectors together? If too easy, then the ears, or the mating pins, or the o-ring would be suspect.
You might even try a new connector. If still loose, then the coach side may be the culprit.
I only hook up the dump hose to dump the tanks then put the hose away. Of course that might be a problem if you have a washing machine.
My waste Master electric valve on the black tank stopped working. Don't have time to trouble shoot it. 3 rd valve is invaluable.
I doubt the valve has failed mine is over 8 years old. Yours would still be under warranty if it has. Probably bad connection.
Thanks for all the responses. Bought the valves from FT and will be installing them soon.
Tomibach,
When I put it back together, I'm adding this, to switch the connection to Valterra.
Someone may have already said this —
Be sure to use ABS glue not regular PVC
Chris
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